16 replies to this topic

[Elwyn]

Hello

I have a 1993 L reg SPI Cooper

I've changed the following very recently (within weeks / days):

spark plugs

HT leads

distributor cap

rotor arm

fuel filter (and pipes either side)

oil filter

oil

air filter

 

Within the last 2 years, I've also changed / replaced with new:

all 4 vacuum pipes

fuel trap

coil

thermostat

coolant

oil (2x)

radiator cap

a few coolant hoses

other things I can't recall

 

The car starts first time, every time

It just pings into life

 

That's just to give you an idea of what's been done already

Now, getting to the point, finally....

 

When the car is cold, under even gentle acceleration, the engine loses power and almost cuts out

I have to quickly press the clutch pedal to stop it cutting out

Then tease the revs up with a bit of clutch balancing

Once warm, it runs and picks up fine

 

And I don't mean "depths of winter -5 degrees cold"

Just general cold start up in this UK July weather

 

Any ideas?

 

Distributor?
Not that it's an actual distributor as far as I can tell from my online reading

 

I am very much a novice with a decreasing amount of skin on my knuckles

 

I'm enjoying the steep learning curve, but very wary of my limited knowledge and skills

 

Hoping to benefit from those that know (MUCH more)

 

Thanks in advance

 

Regards

 

[Elwyn]

Just to clarify / expand on one part of my description, with new words in bold below:

 

When the car is cold, under even gentle acceleration, the engine loses power and almost cuts out

I have to quickly press the clutch pedal to stop it cutting out

Then gently tease the revs lumpily up with a bit of clutch balancing

Pressing the accelerator harder with gung-ho abandon makes it very unhappy and sends it back into withering mode

Once warm, it runs and picks up fine

[genpop]

Build a connection cable described here:https://colinbourassa.github.io/

 or buy a complete one. Then you need a laptop or handheld.There are some diagnose-programs on the internet like mems gauge, mems-rosco,mems-diag,mems-fcr.Then do a test-run with writing a log file.If you publish that logfile we can try to diagnose your badly running engine.

[Elwyn]

Thanks. I've read the article and guide from the link. I'll do some more research to be sure it's not completely beyond me, which it might be. If I was to buy a ready made connector cable, is there anything in particular I need to look for? Or do you perhaps have a link for one? Software such as mems gauge...is that free to download?

[Elwyn]

Is this what I need?

 

https://www.ebay.co....4-/303464172974

[humph]

That's the one.  I posted links to all the software downloads in a post on here the other day.  

 

http://www.theminifo...d-the-software/

 

Under software here

 

https://colinbourass...mems_interface/

 

takes you to this page

 

https://github.com/c...eases/tag/0.2.0

 

 

Mems Rosco here

 

https://github.com/LeopoldG/mems-rosco

Edited by humph, 15 July 2020 - 12:50 PM.

[Elwyn]

Thank you. Great stuff

[Algordo1100]

From the symptoms it sounds like it is under fueling when cold. Like pushing your choke in too early on a carb.

From that I'd guess coolant temp sensor is either telling the ECU lies, or isn't saying anything. In which case the ECU assigns a default output for the broken sensor and gives a fault codes.

Get it plugged in. I use my phone and the app I use gives live data from the sensors so you can check easy.

[Elwyn]

screen data from diagnostic connection

not sure how to share the actual data download file on here

 

 

Faults

 MAP sensor fault

Raw data

 Ambient temperature:200 * default value - check *

 Battery voltage:12

 Coil time microseconds:3252

 Coolant temperature:86

 Fault byte 1 bits:00000000

 Fault byte 2 bits:00100000

 Air con clutch fault:false

 Ambient air temperature fault:false

 Boost valve fault:false

 Coolant temperature gauge fault:false

 Coolant temperature fault:false

 Fuel pump circuit fault:false

 Fuel rail temperature fault:false

 Intake air temperature fault:false

 Knock detected:false

 MAP sensor fault:true

 Purge valve fault:false

 Throttle fault:false

 Turbo overboosted:false

 Fuel rail temperature:200

 Idle hotdb steps:10

 Idle setpoint:0

 Idle speed deviation:6

 Idle switch:0

 Idle valve position:0

 Ignition advance offset:0

 Ignition advance raw:76

 Intake air temperature:40

 MAP sensor (kPa):30

 Park/Neutral switch:1

 RPM:840

 Throttle voltage:0.13

 Air/fuel ratio:146

 Cam shaft sync:true

 Purge valve duty cycle:0

 Closed loop:true

 Crank counter:19

 Crank shaft sync:false

 Cruise control:false

 Engine bay ventilation relay:false

 Fan 1 control:false

 Fan 2 control:false

 Engine bay ventilation warning:false

 Hill assist:false

 Idle base position:10

 Idle error:128

 Ignition switch:16

 Injector 1/4 driver:false

 Injector 2/3 driver:false

 Lambda heater relay:false

 Lambda mV:810

 Lambda sensor duty cycle:255

 Lambda sensor frequency:255 (not reporting)

 Lambda sensor status:1

 Long term trim:149

 Short term trim:114

 Throttle angle:5

[Elwyn]

link to data

 

https://www.icloud.c...zX37ipc01A#Mini

[genpop]

Which diagnostic tool is it?Can`t you publisch the logfile here? ( More Reply Options-> search your logfile->attach file)

Map sensor fault-> are all connections good replace hoses by silicone ones, replace fuel trap.Delete faults-> do a new log!

[Elwyn]

 Diagnostic Data July 2020.pdf   474.54K   16 downloads

[Elwyn]

It wouldn't let me upload it as an excel CVs something or other file, so it's here in pdf

[genpop]

No chance to read from a pdf!

Switch to more reply options.Search for your csv or txt.Attach it!

If it is greater than 2MB open it with any a read write programm what is good for csv or txt files.Delete from the end until size is smaller than 2Mb and try again.

[Elwyn]

Does this link take you to a version of the file that makes more sense?

 

https://drive.google...iew?usp=sharing