34 replies to this topic

[Spider]

Noted you've replaced many items in the Brake System, but what about the Flex Hoses ?

[JXC Mini GT]

Noted you've replaced many items in the Brake System, but what about the Flex Hoses ?

All brake pipes and flexible hoses were replaced when Ben_O (Mill Road Garage) did all the body repairs, the only part of the braking system that hasn't been replaced are the front callipers.

[cal844]

Noted you've replaced many items in the Brake System, but what about the Flex Hoses ?

All brake pipes and flexible hoses were replaced when Ben_O (Mill Road Garage) did all the body repairs, the only part of the braking system that hasn't been replaced are the front callipers.

Flex lines should be replaced every 20,000 miles or 5 years. Ideally every time they've been clamped.

Edited by cal844, 23 March 2021 - 08:51 PM.

[richmondclassicsnorthwales]

On the note that Spider mentions regards brake hoses - they are always seriously overlooked,

 

The only reason I mention it is that anyone reading articles on here should never overlook brake hoses ( noted JXC you have replaced them)

 

Faulty hoses equals faulty brakes equals crash bang wallop.  You don't want that as a picture !

[JXC Mini GT]

On the note that Spider mentions regards brake hoses - they are always seriously overlooked,

 

The only reason I mention it is that anyone reading articles on here should never overlook brake hoses ( noted JXC you have replaced them)

 

Faulty hoses equals faulty brakes equals crash bang wallop.  You don't want that as a picture !

I have ordered replacement hoses and callipers, hoping that sorts things out, I have also spoken to Simon at Minispares who has offered some advice, I will update on progress.

 

[GraemeC]

Flex lines should be replaced every 20,000 miles or 5 years. Ideally every time they've been clamped.

 

 

That would make clamping them pretty pointless then surely?

[cal844]

Flex lines should be replaced every 20,000 miles or 5 years. Ideally every time they've been clamped.

That would make clamping them pretty pointless then surely?

I read an article from Delphi ( from a local supplier) that we should replace the hoses if they'd been clamped as the damage is already done. Whatever truth is in that, I'm unsure though.

[Spider]

 

 

Flex lines should be replaced every 20,000 miles or 5 years. Ideally every time they've been clamped.

That would make clamping them pretty pointless then surely?

I read an article from Delphi ( from a local supplier) that we should replace the hoses if they'd been clamped as the damage is already done. Whatever truth is in that, I'm unsure though.

 

 

Is there any chance you would be able to find the article and post it here?  Given that Delphi are a Hose Manufacturer, I would take notice of what they have to say.

Many of us, including myself have routinely been doing this for many years and if it's poor practice, then I'm sure we'd like to know the ins and outs of that.

[JXC Mini GT]

One other thing that happened when I bled the brakes is that the pedal was higher than it had ever been with very little travel.

[gazza82]

Flex lines should be replaced every 20,000 miles or 5 years. Ideally every time they've been clamped.

That would make clamping them pretty pointless then surely?

I read an article from Delphi ( from a local supplier) that we should replace the hoses if they'd been clamped as the damage is already done. Whatever truth is in that, I'm unsure though.

Plenty of articles on the web to say it is safe to clamp. Can't find any to say don't apart from one on the TDIForum ...

[cal844]

Flex lines should be replaced every 20,000 miles or 5 years. Ideally every time they've been clamped.

That would make clamping them pretty pointless then surely?

I read an article from Delphi ( from a local supplier) that we should replace the hoses if they'd been clamped as the damage is already done. Whatever truth is in that, I'm unsure though.

Plenty of articles on the web to say it is safe to clamp. Can't find any to say don't apart from one on the TDIForum ...

There are also a few bike related ones too but a touchy subject

[Spider]

One other thing that happened when I bled the brakes is that the pedal was higher than it had ever been with very little travel.

 

It really does some similar to issues caused by this;-

 

Check that with the pedal up, that it's 'hanging off' the master cylinder pushrod and that it's not contacting the bodywork at all, ideally, you'd like to see about 2 - 3 mm clearance under the part of the pedal where it enters the bulkhead to connect to the Master Pushrod. If it doesn't come all the way back, the system can't 'breath' and with road vibration, the brakes will gradually come on.

 

The other thing, as Quinlan suggested above is that the seals in the master cylinder may have swelled and that will have a similar effect with road vibration bring the brakes on.

 

[JXC Mini GT]

Check that with the pedal up, that it's 'hanging off' the master cylinder pushrod and that it's not contacting the bodywork at all, ideally, you'd like to see about 2 - 3 mm clearance under the part of the pedal where it enters the bulkhead to connect to the Master Pushrod. If it doesn't come all the way back, the system can't 'breath' and with road vibration, the brakes will gradually come on.
 
The other thing, as Quinlan suggested above is that the seals in the master cylinder may have swelled and that will have a similar effect with road vibration bring the brakes on.

The pedal is not in contacting the bodywork, but there is no free play at all the pedal is extremely high, I have changed the RH calliper and flexible hose and re bled the system and have a slight improvement in that the front brakes are not fully locked on, but they are still binding, I am awaiting mini-spares getting the LH calliper before I change the other side.
Any suggestions how I can get some free play on the pedal?
Big thanks to mini-spares for the prompt delivery ordered on Wednesday delivered on Thursday

[bpirie1000]

So am i right in thinking that your 1980 gt will not have a brake servo.

I trust also that since most of the brake system has been changed you have changed the fluid right through.

Are you loosing any fluid from anywhere.(usually this appears in the form of bubbly paint work where the paint is eaten by the fluid..)

Is it a single line or a twin line.

I would also suggest making sure that the rear wheel cylinders are the correct ones as have had issues before with travel in the rear wheel cylinders. Have you got dry drums on the rear if they are wet then your fault is found..

Also had issues with front hoses and full lock. Some are short and split over time when full lock is on steering causing them to split slightly and allow air into system..


Look at the whole system not just the bit you think is faulty...

Good luck either way.

[Spider]

Any suggestions how I can get some free play on the pedal?

 

 

There are / were shims available that are fitted under the mounting flange of the Master Cylinder, effectively raising it.

A quick test you can do to see if this is the issue is to slot 2 - 5/16" flat washers, loosen the nuts on the master, lift it, slip these washers in, then tighten the cylinder back down. You wouldn't want to leave it this way though as the Engine bay is vented through he and so it might get a little smelly or fumey.