26 replies to this topic

[nicklouse]

Nick, you mean I'd to replace this part?

yes and all the pins. you see the ball end. they wear and also bend. and the parts above.

[PACINO]

Thanks a lot man. You're very kind. Tomorrow I'l take some pics of the clutch to put here. By the way, this part doesn't hear me waching it never fitted in my car.

[PACINO]

Nick, you mean I'd to replace this part?

yes and all the pins. you see the ball end. they wear and also bend. and the parts above.

Cheers Nick !

[nicklouse]

Thanks a lot man. You're very kind. Tomorrow I'l take some pics of the clutch to put here. By the way, this part doesn't hear me waching it never fitted in my car.

Replace that as well if you can/want needs the cover off and bearing removing and refitting or a new bearing as well.

[croc7]

The Clutch master (metal type) and Slave cylinder (pre-verto type) was fitted only a few months ago in the car, but I didn't feel any improve.

Replace the rubber hose from the supply line to the slave cyl with a stainless steel braided one as well.

[PACINO]

Hi. In this photo you can see how it came out or unscrewed that I have to have the screw so that the arm is more open. If I allow the arm to go more closed, then the pedal inside the car is not high, the travel is less, and the gears do not enter. Could this be due using a'clutch arm push rod' longer??

[PACINO]

The Clutch master (metal type) and Slave cylinder (pre-verto type) was fitted only a few months ago in the car, but I didn't feel any improve.

Replace the rubber hose from the supply line to the slave cyl with a stainless steel braided one as well.

Yes. It's already steel braided. Thank you Croc !

[PACINO]

[croc7]

After you’ve replaced the pins, lever, plunger and this pushrod, set the gap to .015“-.020“, adjust from there. Assuming hydraulics are OK, should be fine, keep us informed.

[PACINO]

I've just to see this answer. Thanks for your help Croc !

Regards, Luis

[timmy850]

The clutch slave only has a limited range of movement when you press the pedal. The adjustment on the stop bolt needs to be very close to correct or the slave will be taking up the slack in the system first before moving the arm.

The clutch arm needs to be on an angle toward the clutch cover in order to get enough travel out of a standard length pushrod. If your arm is starting at a wider angle, this would suggest wear in the bottom clevis pin, clutch cover, plunger or clutch arm. You can also pull the dust boot off the end of the slave cylinder to check that the piston isn’t reaching the end of the travel when the pedal is depressed.

If you change from a long pushrod to a shorter one with no other changes I’m guessing the slave will run out of travel and won’t disengage the clutch

Here is an example of how it should all look
 E78AB676-D285-4847-9E84-6587C4ADD025.jpeg   34.74K   0 downloads

I’d also check:
Fluid is bled (you can remove the slave from the gearbox and hold it above the master to help bleed)
Clevis pin on the clutch pedal has no wear and the hole isn’t oval on the pedal or pushrod

[PACINO]

Hi Timmy! I just saw your answer. Cheers man, the photo is magnificent. So far, I've not bought a new clutch arm, which may have the ball worn as colleagues have told me in this post. The clutch master cilynder, the slave cylinder, and the metal hose are new, and I just replaced the clutch push rod which was worn as well as the pin. Outcome? Well, the clutch pedal route is a little shorter, but it is smoother and the gears don't scratch, but this is not perfect. So when I can, I plan to renew the arm.

Regards

Edited by PACINO, 05 October 2020 - 09:02 AM.