173 replies to this topic

[Martin108]

I’m going to run with the sub frame as is. I’ll be fitting the bump stop onto the arm rather than the sub frame. 
 

Some more progress.

 

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[Shaun78]

Hi Martin,you could make a spacer and put on the subframe then mount the bump stop to it then won't need anything on the arm.

[Martin108]

Hi Martin,you could make a spacer and put on the subframe then mount the bump stop to it then won't need anything on the arm.

Shaun, I’d thought about that as well. I’ll get a look at it later on. At the moment I’m hoping to fit the sub frame and install the engine. I need to get measurements sorted for the remote change box brackets as they aren’t fitted. I need to get these welded into place before painting. 

[Martin108]

I’ve managed to progress a bit further. It’s been a busy day. Chris, I fitted the bump stop on the arm as previously discussed. I’ll need to get longer bolts. 
 

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[Martin108]

I’m going to need a few shims on both sides at the front. 
 

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[Martin108]

It’s rolling. 
 

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[Spider]

I’m going to need a few shims on both sides at the front.

That's actually what I think of as perfect.

The gap looks the same both sides. There's shims shown in the parts book with a quantity of 'A/R' (As Required). Personally, I prefer to have a gap here that needs to be shimmed up as it make fitting the subframe easier and also way less likely to knock paintwork about.

Bit moment getting them back on their wheels !  How long since it's been at this stage ?

Top work as always Martin, great to see you moving with it again

[Martin108]

 

I’m going to need a few shims on both sides at the front.

That's actually what I think of as perfect.

The gap looks the same both sides. There's shims shown in the parts book with a quantity of 'A/R' (As Required). Personally, I prefer to have a gap here that needs to be shimmed up as it make fitting the subframe easier and also way less likely to knock paintwork about.

Bit moment getting them back on their wheels !  How long since it's been at this stage ?

Top work as always Martin, great to see you moving with it again

 

Chris it’s been three years since I stripped it all down. It’s great seeing it all go together. 

[Martin108]

Front bumper and grille fitted.

 

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[Martin108]

Engine ready to be fitted. This is a 1098cc engine. I need to install this so I can install the remote gear change. The brackets for the remote gear change have yet to be welded.

 

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[Martin108]

In it goes. You can do anything when you’ve managed to scrounge the tools for the job.

 

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[Martin108]

Remote gear shift fitted with brackets held in place. They don’t seem to match up width wise with the tunnel.

 

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[Spider]

Nice work once again mate.

The grill looks like it belongs

Bit hard to tell for sure, but the shifter looks like it might be hanging a bit low, I think the brackets are for the later model but I'd say someone of your talents should be able to modify them easy enough. Sorry this is not a great photo, it's about all I have;-

 

 

The other option here, and it maybe better ? is to use the long cotton reels as used on the shifter in a Mini, and bolt them up to the floor. The nuts will end up right next to the tunnel, you'd hardly notice them there under a mat, they'd end similar to the bolts & nuts for the fuel tank cover

[Martin108]

Nice work once again mate.

The grill looks like it belongs

Bit hard to tell for sure, but the shifter looks like it might be hanging a bit low, I think the brackets are for the later model but I'd say someone of your talents should be able to modify them easy enough. Sorry this is not a great photo, it's about all I have;-

 

 

The other option here, and it maybe better ? is to use the long cotton reels as used on the shifter in a Mini, and bolt them up to the floor. The nuts will end up right next to the tunnel, you'd hardly notice them there under a mat, they'd end similar to the bolts & nuts for the fuel tank cover

Chris thanks as always for the positive comments. The grille does look good. I was worried when I bought the front panel that it wasn’t possible to get a full pressed one like the original but it’s worked out ok. 

The brackets for the remote shift do match the profile of the tunnel and will fit but it means widening the main bracket to suit. I was worried this might clash with the exhaust. I’ll work something out, I’d rather not have anything going through the tunnel. Thanks again.

[Spider]

The brackets for the remote shift do match the profile of the tunnel and will fit but it means widening the main bracket to suit. I was worried this might clash with the exhaust. I’ll work something out, I’d rather not have anything going through the tunnel. Thanks again.

 

The Original Exhaust on models that had the Rod Shift doesn't take the route you might think, this is a later model, but very similar to what the 74 - 79 models originally had;-

The earlier models that had the Direct (or Magic Wand) Shifter, they did have enough room there, so the pipe did come pretty much straight down the tunnel.

If that is what you are thinking you'd like to do, I'm pretty sure you'll need to move the shifter over about an inch and really, that wouldn't be a bad thing and all as it will better align the Shift Rod more directly to the Gearbox so it's only moving the Shaft in and out, as well as rotating, instead of including a sideways action like it does now, this only leads to premature oil leaks and pins that wear like crazy. Or you could make a custom mount for the shifter that might dodge around the exhaust pipe, though I have to say, I haven't seen an arrangement yet that's a proper move forward and not just an after thought solution to a problem that's compromised.