15 replies to this topic

[Coolingthunder]

Evening folks,

 

 

So I just want to make sure of something here.

 

I just replaced the front wheel bearing on my 88 Mini (single hole nut, disc brakes).

 

Now I know Haynes quotes 255-275nm off the top of my head, but I seem to remember to have read somewhere that those figures are for the older style of bearings, not the tapered bearings that Timken has. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the recommended value here was 210nm and then tighten until you can fit the pin.

 

Is this true, or was this just internet fabrication?  If it is indeed 255-275, how can I measure this? My (and others bar the real professional stuff) torque wrench only goes up to 210nm (which would be convenient!)

 

Thanks!

[cal844]

I just use a 3 foot breaker bar with a 6 foot extension pole and get my dad on the end of it... Its tight enough

[cal844]

I just use a 3 foot breaker bar with a 6 foot extension pole and get my dad on the end of it... Its tight enough

[Coolingthunder]

I should add this too, as it has been bugging me for a few days now...

 

 

i replaced the bearing after it failed while out on a run.

Did it with the help of a friend of mine. We did it without checking Haynes initially (he's the mechanic between us 2), I drove it home (15-20 miles ish?) and then I decided I wanted to be sure if we did everything correctly.

 

Of course, then I started reading about the torque value (which we didn't really measure, but as cal said we used a pretty big breaker bar and some old fashioned swearing to get it tight as we could) and most importantly, I read about the flat washer technique! 

 

Now, I think it woul be safest for me to take the hub nut off again and retighten using the flat washer technique (I ordered one of those from my local Mini bits supplier) and then retighten it again with the conical washer, but now my question is also, how likely is it that the bearing suffered some damage from running like that? It wasn't very far, 20-25miles at the most, and I took it easy on the way home for a change so no hard cornering.

 

Or would it be advisable to take off the entire hub again and inspect the driveshaft end and the bearing for signs of damage? 

[MarkR]

Maybe this will help.

https://www.timken.c...oller-bearings/

 

or this

https://www.timken.c...ng-replacement/

 

Edited by MarkR, 29 October 2020 - 08:43 AM.

[Spider]

The correct Torque for those CVs is 197 ft/lb then on to the next slot in the nut.

[sonscar]

Serious question,we are pulling the CV joint onto the inner race inner then the outer race inner onto the hub?we are not pulling the rollers as this would destroy them surely?So why so tight?Steve..

[Coolingthunder]

If I read the bearing replacement doc, they say to first tighten to 50ftlbs, then back off and go to 10? Surely that can't be enough? Aren't minis famous for requiring extremely high torques on those nuts?

[Coolingthunder]

Also,I found this on the threads of the drive axle. Not sure if it shows on the pic but it seems the threads have been slightly flattened?

Am I looking at getting a new axle here?

Attached Files

•  Webp.net-compress-image.jpg   73.08K   1 downloads

Edited by Coolingthunder, 29 October 2020 - 11:12 AM.

[GraemeC]

If I read the bearing replacement doc, they say to first tighten to 50ftlbs, then back off and go to 10? Surely that can't be enough? Aren't minis famous for requiring extremely high torques on those nuts?

 

You're reading it right, but that has nothing to do with the wheel bearing on a Mini - it is for very simple single row taper bearings.

 

For your photo - if the nut spins on and off past that damage with no real resistance, then I would be tempted to leave it (you could clean up any burrs with a small file too).

Otherwise install a new CV.

Edited by GraemeC, 29 October 2020 - 12:17 PM.

[GraemeC]

Serious question,we are pulling the CV joint onto the inner race inner then the outer race inner onto the hub?we are not pulling the rollers as this would destroy them surely?So why so tight?Steve..

 

Why do you torque any fastener past the point where it has clamped up the two items it is securing?

You are setting the preload and clamping force on the bearing and ensuring that there is sufficient stretch imparted into the CV to maintain that setting.

[Ethel]

Serious question,we are pulling the CV joint onto the inner race inner then the outer race inner onto the hub? we are not pulling the rollers as this would destroy them surely?So why so tight?Steve..

 

I see it as clamping the inner races between the nut & CV joint so they don't spin on the shaft. The spacer sets the preload on the rollers. Can't see an issue with overtightening short of pushing the threads  beyond yield.

[Dusky]

I just use a 3 foot breaker bar with a 6 foot extension pole and get my dad on the end of it... Its tight enough

Average weight of a male in the UK is 184 pound.
9 foot extension makes for 1656 lbft. Auwtsj.

[Coolingthunder]

Okay I'll give the nut a try tomorrow or when I have a chance to go.

Now regarding the torque, my wrench only goes up to 210nm, and I can't seem to find one that does that doesn't cost my left kidney...

Renting tools is not something I have really heard of here in Belgium either unfortunately...

What do you guys do in this case?

Edited by Coolingthunder, 29 October 2020 - 07:47 PM.

[Dusky]

Okay I'll give the nut a try tomorrow or when I have a chance to go.

Now regarding the torque, my wrench only goes up to 210nm, and I can't seem to find one that does that doesn't cost my left kidney...

Renting tools is not something I have really heard of here in Belgium either unfortunately...

What do you guys do in this case?

Ask a local garage to rent one.
Or make an extender to multiply the torque.