Whats the best way to remove a bolt with the head snapped off
I was taking my front seat out and one of the bolts just snapped. >
I've got the other 3 bolts out and removed the seat, but in the hole where the bolt snapped, I can see the remaining bolt, I need to get this out to enable the seat to go back in.
Theres not enough bolt showing to use grips or to put a groove in it(to use a screw driver).
How do I get it out, if I need a specialist tool, could you please put a link up so I get the correct tool,
thanks
Snapped bolt
Started by
charlie
, Nov 01 2006 12:20 AM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 01 November 2006 - 12:20 AM
#2
Posted 01 November 2006 - 12:34 AM
if u can get the drips on it you mite destroy your chances of using anything else!!
you'd need an easy out bit!! just search a toom manufactureres and u shud find one!! make sure u squirt as much wd40 in the area as u can!
you'd need an easy out bit!! just search a toom manufactureres and u shud find one!! make sure u squirt as much wd40 in the area as u can!
#3
Posted 01 November 2006 - 03:13 AM
NO EASY-OUTS, period.
I cannot stress enough what a horrible device an Easy-Out is. Just stop and think about what you're using and what you're using it for. You had a nice strong bolt and you've just put so much torque on it that you sheared it in half trying to remove it. Now you want to use an Easy-Out so you drill a small hole down the center of what's left of the bolt and you tap (or screw) in a hardened, brittle, small bit of steel with the intention of using this sliver of hard metal to remove what couldn't be removed when it had a proper head on it. If you think you've got problems now, just wait until you break an Easy-Out off in a bolt.
Instead, carefully mark the center of the broken bolt with a center punch. Use a small drill bit and carefully drill a hole through the broken bolt. Use progressively larger drill bits (in very small steps) until the through-hole is close to (or just breaks into) the root of the threads on the broken bolt. Stop at that point and try to pick out what's left of the bolt. If you can't get the remains out at that point, get a SHARP tap and carefully re-tap the hole. The tap will remove what's left of the offending bolt. I repeat SHARP tap. Don't use a dull tap as breaking a tap is just as bad as breaking an Easy-Out.
I cannot stress enough what a horrible device an Easy-Out is. Just stop and think about what you're using and what you're using it for. You had a nice strong bolt and you've just put so much torque on it that you sheared it in half trying to remove it. Now you want to use an Easy-Out so you drill a small hole down the center of what's left of the bolt and you tap (or screw) in a hardened, brittle, small bit of steel with the intention of using this sliver of hard metal to remove what couldn't be removed when it had a proper head on it. If you think you've got problems now, just wait until you break an Easy-Out off in a bolt.
Instead, carefully mark the center of the broken bolt with a center punch. Use a small drill bit and carefully drill a hole through the broken bolt. Use progressively larger drill bits (in very small steps) until the through-hole is close to (or just breaks into) the root of the threads on the broken bolt. Stop at that point and try to pick out what's left of the bolt. If you can't get the remains out at that point, get a SHARP tap and carefully re-tap the hole. The tap will remove what's left of the offending bolt. I repeat SHARP tap. Don't use a dull tap as breaking a tap is just as bad as breaking an Easy-Out.
#4
Posted 01 November 2006 - 08:08 AM
or....
get a nut and weld it onto the remains of the bolt through the middle, the heat will loosen it anyway and will most likely come out with no trouble at all... just dont weld the nut to the cross member
I use this method on stuborn rear subframe bolts too...
get a nut and weld it onto the remains of the bolt through the middle, the heat will loosen it anyway and will most likely come out with no trouble at all... just dont weld the nut to the cross member
I use this method on stuborn rear subframe bolts too...
#5
Posted 01 November 2006 - 08:48 AM
In fact the way thay DK has described using the tap is the proper way to use an ez out. Thats the way I way was taught and I have never broken an ez out.
#6
Posted 01 November 2006 - 09:25 AM
Thanksfor the replies so far but the bolt that has snapped is the lower bolt, the one closest to the floor, I dont think I will be able to get a drill in position and maintain it dead straight due to the floor being in the way, so are there any other methods?
#7
Posted 01 November 2006 - 09:35 AM
IF you have a welder just chop the thing out and weld a nut in the hole
#8
Posted 01 November 2006 - 09:36 AM
i'd weld a nut on too, if your able. By far the quickest and easiest method.
#9
Posted 01 November 2006 - 09:42 AM
If you dont have a welder get some one to weld a nut to a piece of plate and rivet the plate to the area
#10
Posted 01 November 2006 - 01:04 PM
I'm glad that Nomininolife has had success with Easy-Outs but I cannot stress enough what a terrible thing they are and how easily they can break.
Since you are dealing with the bottom bolt, use Guessworks welding method if you can. Your last resort should be removing the nut and welding a new one in. It's not a simple task to weld the new nut in place. My crossmember lost one of the captive nuts and I had to do just that.
Since you are dealing with the bottom bolt, use Guessworks welding method if you can. Your last resort should be removing the nut and welding a new one in. It's not a simple task to weld the new nut in place. My crossmember lost one of the captive nuts and I had to do just that.
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