23 replies to this topic

[PACINO]

Hi everyone.
 
As som many others i have trouble to decide dizzy..... Pre a+1293cc twin hs2, MS evo camshaft, maniflow Lcb, rc40 exhaust, Nothing special, just a nice drivable car.
Currently running an 25d dizzy from an Morris1300
 
These are my alternatives at the moment,
Aldon yellow 100AYV(vaccum adv) with either Adon ignitor or Lumenition CEK150 electronics fittet.
 
Or a CSI 45d optimized.
 
I`ve read good and bad about both
 
Just want relability and quality,  Give me your toughts on them.

or...Why don't you test an 123ignition? Some people prefers it than CSI.

https://www.mokeforu...p?topic=12798.0

[Wigh]

 

Hi everyone.
 
As som many others i have trouble to decide dizzy..... Pre a+1293cc twin hs2, MS evo camshaft, maniflow Lcb, rc40 exhaust, Nothing special, just a nice drivable car.
Currently running an 25d dizzy from an Morris1300
 
These are my alternatives at the moment,
Aldon yellow 100AYV(vaccum adv) with either Adon ignitor or Lumenition CEK150 electronics fittet.
 
Or a CSI 45d optimized.
 
I`ve read good and bad about both
 
Just want relability and quality,  Give me your toughts on them.

or...Why don't you test an 123ignition? Some people prefers it than CSI.

https://www.mokeforu...p?topic=12798.0

 

im sure they are as good as the Csi,nut i dont like the bosch looking distributor cap.......

[Wigh]

 

Thanks for all input so far, recurving is not an option, postage from here(sweden) and return + the job itself, i rather put that in a new dizzy. the only thing beside the price i dont like with the Csi is my fear of electronic problems, thats why the Aldon yellow is my other alternative, with the opportunity to run on points if the electrics fails.

 

Honestly, as long as you use it with a Coil of their recommendation, I seriously doubt it will fail. I have one in my Moke and a traveling companion also runs one. We've had them now for 8 years, and they really have been through hell and high water*, with creek crossings, extreme heat and some of the very worst conditions you could ever come across anywhere - click on the link in my signature to get an idea of what I am referring to. They have proven to us to be totally reliable, never missing a beat ever. Previously, we have run points, which were very high maintenance, the electronic points modules, which were OK but easily damaged and still at the mercy of the mechanical advances in the standard distributor. I ran an Optical Luminition System back in the 80's, and found that a good system, though very outdated today and also only as good as the mechanical parts of the original distributor.

 

* In order to waterproof them, they do have 6 small holes in the back of the main body, we have sealed these up and also the caps to the main body. 

 

yes im think thats the problem with so many other ignitionson the market to, that people use the wrong coils and they fail and then the call the ignition system crap, when they didt read the instructions..

[Osgodd]

just my opinion - 

 

i have just fitted the swiftune 23d (previous was a morris 1300 version) picked curve 11

 

goes like a stabbed rat.. - the difference is quite startling..

 

im running twin 1-1/2su's kmd286 1380cc maniflowlcb stage 4 head 1.5rollers.  gonna run it for a few weeks to settle it down and then will book it in down at southam for a dyno tune.

 

money well spent for a change..

[Zami]

MiniSpares sells are dedicated dizzy for there evo camshaft profile, is this not a good option? 

 

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Ignition/C-27H7701.aspx

I am running this distributor on my 1380, sw5, rc40, twin hs4.  I am very happy with it.

[Project_1275_GT]

I have done a lot of reading on this subject and opted for Aldon Amethyst as this can easily be curved correctly. Not installed or tested yet. Basically a standard looking dizzy, electronic system so no points, uses a standard electronic coil so it all looks original, comes with pre set safe curve to get started. Costs around £400 for all thats needed, can then be setup at a rolling road easily. 

 

http://www.aldonamethyst.co.uk/

[Spider]

I have done a lot of reading on this subject and opted for Aldon Amethyst as this can easily be curved correctly. Not installed or tested yet. Basically a standard looking dizzy, electronic system so no points, uses a standard electronic coil so it all looks original, comes with pre set safe curve to get started. Costs around £400 for all thats needed, can then be setup at a rolling road easily. 

 

http://www.aldonamethyst.co.uk/

 

These are pretty good, but just to put it on the table both CSI and 123 have similar versions, only there's no external box, it's all in the distributor.

[Osgodd]

just to close off on my last post.

 

car has now been fresh dyno'd (Colin at SMMC did cracking job).

 

car went in with 70whp (82bhp) and running curve 11

 

left with 85whp (99.5bhp) and running curve 13

 

it was running well before it went in, but now with new curve setup it comes on cam a bit earlier and goes like stink........

 

cheers

Edited by Osgodd, 21 June 2021 - 11:47 AM.

[Spider]

Just on the CSI vs 123 on going debate. I was chatting with a fellow Moke the other day about our recent outback trip and some of the water crossings we did. He then let me know of his 123 that he was running and that about a year back, he had to do a water crossing. Long story short, water had entered his 123 and has damaged it beyond repair, given the cost of it, he's understandably quite disappointed. Prior to this, he wanted to obtain a spare Cap and Rotor Button and was unable to source them locally, having to get basic service parts from the UK.

 

Early on with my CSI, I did get water in it on a water crossing (prior to plugging up the small holes in it) and yes the engine did stop as a result, but only from water getting on the HT side of things. Some WD40 and I was away again. That was in 2013 and it's doesn't seem to have suffered at all from it's dunking.