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Long Stood Car Won't Turn By Hand


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#16 slidingdog

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Posted 30 November 2020 - 03:13 PM

Thanks guys, and Cooperman for the extra info. I was planning to do most of those things, but I'll have to look up valve clearances as that's a new one for the to-do list. Also how do you check the timing without the engine running?

 

While waiting for the plusgas to do its thing, I've taken the fanbelt off (ok, couldn't get the alternator to swing far enough so I cut the belt off) and last night started to remove the radiator. I got the thermostat housing off fine (managed not to shear any bolts, used plenty of PG and even found a bit of patience from somewhere :proud: ) but the thermostat itself is firmly stuck in the block. I didn't get the bottom rad hose off yet so don't know if there's any liquid at all - the thermostat housing and the upper hose was full of crystalline crud so I guess the coolant has mainly evaporated (radiator cap seems a bit loose).

 

What would be the best way to remove the thermostat - I was thinking of heating it with a blowtorch (I have a kitchen/camping one - butane or propane can't remember) to try to free it, or is there a better way? I'm hesitant to pry it out or pierce it in case I damage the surface of the block...


Edited by slidingdog, 30 November 2020 - 03:16 PM.


#17 Maccmike8

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Posted 30 November 2020 - 05:53 PM

So long as the face where the gasket sits isnt damaged, Id just smack it out with a drift.



#18 mab01uk

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Posted 30 November 2020 - 06:46 PM

Yes you should be able to destroy the old thermostat carefully to remove it in bits, keep away from the edges where it sits on the head casting, gentle prising around the centre with an old screwdriver, you could even drill carefully to weaken it as long as you don't hit/drill the head casting.

As said if you get the engine turning try to get oil pressure up first on the starter motor with plugs out. (Oil pressure gauge best if you have one, as an oil pressure light does not indicate much pressure.

As the engine has been so long standing unused the oil has probably drained down and the oil pump will probably need priming first to be safe, see link below.

 

Regaining Oil Pressure After Long-Term "Mini" Storage:-

https://www.7ent.com...ni-storage.html


Edited by mab01uk, 30 November 2020 - 06:51 PM.


#19 62S

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Posted 02 December 2020 - 08:16 AM

Seems to me you are not seeing the wood for the trees here, I'd be surprised if it is seized if stored in a nice dry atmosphere.

Have you tried to roll the car with it out of gear? If it has discs brakes on the front they are usually OK, rear drums are notorious for seizing. Once you have the car moveable, with the spark plugs out, put it in second or third gear and try and rock the car backwards and forwards, you should be able feel the engine turning or you can remove the rocker cover and see the valve gear moving.

If it is turning over I would remove the oil feed pipe from the front of the block and put some oil down there to prime the oil pump. You need to spin it over a bit before trying to start it it a) to get the oil pressure up and b) to try and get some of the oil out of the bores that you have put in there.

Being a 1983 car it should have a single HS4 carburettor. Take the top off the float chamber and clean out any old petrol. Do not replace the top at this stage just make sure the float is in the up position or block the petrol pipe. You don't want 12 year old petrol in the carb or all over the garage floor.

Once it can be turned over, still with the plugs out, connect the battery and spin it over a few times for a few seconds, you want to see the oil pressure coming up on the gauge or the oil pressure light going out.

Fill the float chamber to half way with fresh petrol.

Assuming it was driven into the garage don't mess with the timing and for an initial start up I wouldn't worry about the thermostat or fanbelt either. As you have cut the fanbelt off just check that the fan and alternator both turn easily and smoothly.

Clean the points in situ and clean and gap the spark plugs and refit and you should be good to go.

Because you have put oil down the bores it is likely to smoke like a barsteward when it does start.

#20 slidingdog

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Posted 03 December 2020 - 03:41 PM

Well I jacked up the corner of the car again last night, to try to turn the wheel by hand....and success!! Don't know if it was the plusgas or taking the fanbelt off but it turns pretty easily now. Took the rocker cover off too for the first time, just to see the tappets moving :shades: . Thanks again everyone for your sound advice on this, including the info on the next steps to get her fired up. That 'to do' list will keep me busy for a while, I got some reading up to do ;D

 

One last question though (for now :shy: ), is it a good idea to replace fixings on stuff like the thermostat housing, rad mount brackets, sump plug etc. when you have them off? Or is it unecessary?

 

Best,

 

Tim






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