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5K Mile Mini City E Refresh


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#31 colinf1

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 11:27 AM

No, my number is 470363..

 

I also had a similar date stamped on my rear subframe -  25/1/83

 

Is your VIN stamped on drain on scuttle panel around master cylinders?

 

 

Found this stamp on the rear subframe, looks like its the original subframe

 

50570143262_47bea59d73_b.jpg

 

 


Edited by colinf1, 19 January 2021 - 11:46 AM.


#32 colinf1

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 11:28 AM

duplicate post


Edited by colinf1, 19 January 2021 - 11:28 AM.


#33 se7enmvu

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 12:17 PM

God knows what those stamped numbers are for then. Judging by the subframe dates our minis were probably built within a month of each other but those inner wing numbers aren't even close or appear to be consecutive.
Yeah my vin is stamped on the scuttle.

#34 colinf1

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 12:37 PM

God knows what those stamped numbers are for then. Judging by the subframe dates our minis were probably built within a month of each other but those inner wing numbers aren't even close or appear to be consecutive.
Yeah my vin is stamped on the scuttle.

 

Thanks for that, I was having some doubts to the originality of the chassis due to some unmatched numbers in my logbook but I'm putting this down to human error.

My vin plate is the same design as yours, BL Cars, same VIN stamp on scuttle so I think I can put my mind at ease knowing that it is the correct and original 1983 shell.



#35 Sprinkler23

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 06:30 PM

I wish I had the skills to do such things 🙂. Great job!

#36 slidehammer

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 03:58 PM

Great looking unmolested Mini, and it looks like it is good hands to keep it that way. Good luck with it



#37 colinf1

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Posted 23 January 2021 - 08:32 PM

I have a number stamped in the same location on my 83, but it doesn't match anything in log book...does yours?

It doesn't match any numbers on mine either. Is yours the same number (1651820)?

Bit more cleaning on mine shows it 470383, which could be March 1983, matches up with subframe date.

Maybe yours shows shell was built 1982, matches your subframe date

#38 se7enmvu

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Posted 24 January 2021 - 01:13 AM

I have a number stamped in the same location on my 83, but it doesn't match anything in log book...does yours?

It doesn't match any numbers on mine either. Is yours the same number (1651820)?

Bit more cleaning on mine shows it 470383, which could be March 1983, matches up with subframe date.

Maybe yours shows shell was built 1982, matches your subframe date

I've just looked at mine again and it doesn't have a 0 on the end so it reads 165182
Which could be week 51 of 1982 which is the same week my subframe was built.
If it a week number your shell was made the week before your subframe.
Not sure what the first 2 digits are. Maybe a shift no or inspection id?

#39 se7enmvu

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 12:19 AM

Since my last update inside the wheel arches have been resprayed in primula yellow and the headlights have been cleaned up. They're not perfect but I imagine the condition isn't that different to when they were new.

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I could have repainted them and made them perfect like I could have done with a few things but I think that would have sanitised the cars history.

This refresh i've done is more about preservation than restoration. The underseal needed removing to ensure that rot wasn't spreading unnoticed and i've only replaced parts where its absolutely necessary.

The quality of the original parts is also often better than what can be bought now. For instance the ball joint dust covers are the original mowog items. 38 year old rubber thats as good as new while ive just replaced the track rod ends on my mpi that have lasted two years before the rubbers perished.

The city did need a new cv joint cover as the n/s one had split. Luckily a nos British Leyland one appeared on ebay. 45 years old and factory fresh.


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I stripped all front suspension components, repainted and assembled with new grease.

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I preserved the original paint where I could on the front subframe as only the towers needed paint. The frame was then rebuilt and refitted.

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I had intended to repaint the engine but it cleaned up quite nicely except the head which was just rust. Unfortunately the shade of yellow wasn't quite right. Maybe it will change with some heat. The engine was ready to be refitted.

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Then ancillaries were refitted.

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The radiator needs refurbishment as it weeps in a couple of places but I'll do that once moted.

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Just the fluids to fill now and a couple of wheel cylinders that need new seals and its ready to mot.

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#40 some1158

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 10:02 AM

 

When you reapply protection to the underside use the more modern solutions. I used bilt hamber ub wax (dark brown finish which you may or may not want) but there are lots of great products and a wealth of advice here on tmf


I used the ub wax on my mpi a few years ago. Its good stuff. As the city is only going to get occasional summer use im leaving the underside unprotected. But I'm going to put the ub wax in any box section s and I'll thin it down abit and force it into seams.

 

 

Re the box sections etc - Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 is designed specifically for this, and comes with a long lance so you can get into the awkward areas



#41 se7enmvu

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Posted 27 January 2021 - 10:34 PM

Got the mini back on its wheels today and pushed it out of the garage to wash the dust off.
Hopefully finish the brakes on Friday.

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