11 replies to this topic

[oohaargh]

I've been having a poke at the wiring on my 96 SPI which has been fiddled with by previous owners.

The wiring for various stuff inside the cabin is looking pretty poor. There's a bunch of circuits which share the same fuse in the fusebox (correctly): radio memory, interior light, indicators/hazards, immobiliser light, brake test light.

For these I've got one wire coming through from the bulkhead (which presumably is coming straight from the fusebox) which is then poorly spliced behind the dashboard to 5 other wires which go off to power each of those circuits. I gather these circuits are supposed to have inline fuses but they do not.

Couple of questions - what's the correct way to join those 6 wires together? I'm going to redo the horrible join I've currently got.



And how should the inline fuses look? Should probably be one for each circuit after the join, are they normally all near the steering column behind the dash? Would like to put it back together as close to standard as possible

[PoolGuy]

If you’re talking about the brass splice (known as an open barrel splice), that is the correct way to join wires, sadly spoilt by adding solder to it and not heat shrinking it. I’d be more concerned about the blue abomination to the right. As for fusing the wires, find out what they do and if they’re actually fused elsewhere.

[Turbo Phil]

Have a look here: https://www.theminif...s-covered-data/
Unfortunately every individual circuit doesn't have its own individual fuse on the Mini. I'm in the process of fitting a new style fuse box to mine with the blade type fuses and splitting all the circuits up to separate fuses which should make it much better. 

Phil. 

[oohaargh]

Cheers for the info, yeah there's all sorts of mismatched joins all over the place. Would redo it all if I knew what I was doing but going to have to learn a bit at a time.

From the link it sounds like the indicators are the only one with an inline fuse so I'll stick one in there. Pretty certain that's meant to be behind the dash rather than in the engine bay like the post says, wouldn't make much sense in the engine bay either.

Will leave that join be then, I'll just shrink wrap it and stick in the extra fuse.

[GraemeC]

That join is a factory splice

[Steam]

I suggest you learn quickly if there are more of the blue slice joiners in tour wiring. They will reak the wire, best you fix them now before they let you down.

[oohaargh]

I suggest you learn quickly if there are more of the blue slice joiners in tour wiring. They will reak the wire, best you fix them now before they let you down.

There are a few more of these where 3 wires join together, plus a range of different crimped bullet connectors where it's just 2 wires.

What's the best method to join 3 wires if I replace the blue connectors?

[PoolGuy]

Crimps are preferred if done properly, do you have access to any crimping tools? 

[cal844]

I use 6.3 mm piggy back spades, crimp type and also adhesive heat shrink

[lordcakes]

If you are going to use connectors, use the uninsulated crimp type (makes a better connection that the insulated red/blue/yellow crimps) and use heatshrink over the top to insulate and to stop them working loose.

Alternatively you can get the original type crimps or do a solder joint. If you do a solder joint make sure it is a good joint or it can crack over time and give you a dodgy joint. Whatever you do make sure that the joints are not stressed and ensure they are properly insulated.

My personal preference is crimps for joints and connectors. I only use soldered joints if I have had to extend a single wire. Crimps are quick and easy (especially if you have a half decent tool) and give a long lasting, mechanically sound joint.

[oohaargh]

Sounds good, I've got a crimping tool and some heat shrink and a gun arrived today.

Cheers for all the pointers

[Steam]

4 way bullet connectors are the best way. Crimp the bullets, push into the connector, job done.