22 replies to this topic

[AlasdairM]

Sonikk4 thanks for clarifying.

The multiple post issue was for new posts (so a new thread), not for multiple posts on the same forum.

I’m on my mobile now, so can’t see if it’s still an issue.

At least my ball joints didn’t snap today.

[Ethel]

 

Ethel do you normally shim without the spring or with the spring?

Everywhere I’ve read says to shim without the spring first, then reassemble with the spring fitted.

That's correct - the spring is to take up any play as the joint wears and ensure the ball remains tight (ish) in the cup.  If the ball can float in the cup the lower end of the hub carrier can move about.  Shim it up first with the small concave button under the ball then put the spring under the button for final assembly.  If you have to hit it hard with a hammer to move it the spring may have gone coilbound.  Having to tap it lightly to align it shouldn't be a problem.

 

When fully assembled it should be possible to rotate the hub from lock to lock by hand.

 

I shim with the spring in. You'll feel the resistance you'll actually get. Without it, the cup will just sit at maximum depth negating the purpose of the spring.

[KTS]

it's not been referenced so far in this thread, but the Haynes manual instruction is that the tension spring in the lower balljoint be removed for the shimming process and replaced for final fitting

[RooBoonix]

I've always shimmed with the spring out, and once I'm satisfied with it I fit the spring and even then I have always been able to move the ball pin by hand. Of course, there is some resistance but I've never had to resort to any additional means (and wouldn't feel comfortable doing so)

[Ethel]

It does,

 

for both top & bottom 35thou, or 0.9mm, of preload is specified, but it's still purely subjective as to how tight the swivel is before to work out the preload. It's fair to say the finishing of the joints isn't as consistent as it was when they wrote the manual. 

 

I reckon if the hubs fall freely under their own weight, before the steering is attached, is a fair indicator.

[GraemeC]

The factory manual is to assemble first without the spring (same as Haynes) and the spec is "no nip to 0.003" end play".

Not preloaded (the spring effectively adds some pre-load to the lower joint once the correct shims have been selected).

[Ethel]

I checked the manual, 35thou off the feeler measurement is supposed to give you the shimming for 3 thou to no nip.

 

Who's ever measured the endfloat on a ball joint - In reality, if they nip you chuck in a thin shim: if they don't, they go on the car.

[AlasdairM]

I think the issue is that the new spring which came with the kit from minispares was around 1mm longer than the spring that I had removed.

 

As I said before though, the reason this didn't worry me, is that the previous ball joint was far too loose, it was clunking around for months. 

 

I'm getting the alignment done on Thursday by a mechanic who knows minis well, so I'll ask him to check the tension in the ball joint, and report back.