At the risk of invoking Murphy's Law, I'm declaring Mission Accomplished!
For those of you playing along at home, here's what worked for me:
-Raise left side of engine 12mm (5mm steel offset plate under radiator end engine mount, as pictured earlier).
-Tyre pressures 28psi front, 26psi rear (165/70R10 Yokohama A008 on 4.5" ET35 wheels)
-Place very patient friend in drivers seat. Alternatively, an 80 litre bucket of water.
-Adjust front ride height until both driveshafts are angled (wheel end up) 0.65°
-Adjust rear cones to balance out front corner weights (it didn't take much at all).
-Set front camber to -0.65° (matching driveshaft angle), caster to 3.1°
-Set front Toe Out to 1mm total.
-Attempt to wear out the differential by driving for an hour on the curviest road you can find. (This was the fun part, learning just how much grip it now has in the corners!)
Result? Drives in a straight line, even under power. Corners the same in either direction. There's still a slight weave when lifting off at speed, but it's very minor and depends on the road crown. The broken-in diff is much smoother and less grabby when cornering or over uneven/slippery surfaces.
Thanks to everyone who pitched in with ideas! You've all been super helpful.
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If you are running rubber cones then you are in better shape than someone running coil springs.
Rubber cones all the way! I've driven a couple of coil sprung Minis and I missed how progressive the rubber cones are.
Edited by growlerbearnz, 03 June 2021 - 05:12 AM.