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Heavily Modified City E Show Car


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#1 Chris1992

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 03:45 PM

Hi guys, 

 

Definitely not looking to sell, but just for my insurance agreed value, what sort of number should I be asking? 

 

I realise this is a very niche car and the styling will not appeal to everyone, but any advice would be great. Currently asking 12k but I think I should be asking more considering the engine alone makes up the vast majority of that. 

 

Might be worth mentioning it was the main cover car for Mini Mag a couple years back?

 

Here are some photos followed by a complete spec list. 

 

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- Fully restored from a bare shell, including rust repair, welding, and tubbed arches. The car is now immaculate.

- Full respray in 2k gloss black, with the underside fully stone-chipped and waxoiled for good measure.

- The entire body kit is completely hand made from scratch in either fibreglass or ABS plastic, including front splitter, air-damn, canards, side skirts with added feeder skirts, and full rear diffuser

- Complete wire tuck and smoothed bay (new bulkhead panel welded in), sprayed in pearl Cadbury purple, with large gold and purple flake, including hidden wiper motor, brake/clutch master cylinder, and fuse box. Custom blanking panels made from scratch and held in with magnets specially for shows.

- Brand new 1380cc A-series with ported BMW K1200RS 16v cylinder head conversion built by Specialist Components. Spec includes LT cams, lightened flywheel, x-drilled/knife edged crank, ARP bolts, custom Omega pistons, BMW ITBs, Full straight cut gearbox, X-pin diff, etc...

- JDM/drift inspired wrap which I designed myself, and had fitted by M.O Signs.

- Full OBP Performance race pedal box conversion, which is how I was able to relocate the brake/clutch cylinders from the engine bay. The reservoirs are smoothed and painted to imitate Lego heads, and are mounted in front of the dash on custom brackets.

- Fletcher alloy radiator with hand painted lettering.

- DSN Classic Billet aluminium engine steady, bulkhead blanking plates, and door furniture.  

- Maniflow 4-2-1 downpipe with straight through pipe to Maniflow Miglia Twin Race exahust.

- The front wheels are 13x8 Force Racing Turbo TF billet 3 piece split rims, with polished lips and gold anodized centers.

- The rear wheels are 13x8 Image Billet 19 3 piece split rims, with polished lips and black powder coated centers. These have then been hand drilled and tapped to accept VW Beetle hubcap clips, and then Triumph Herald hubcaps have been fitted, with ultra rare aftermarket Austin center spinners.

- All wheels are drilled out by hand in order to fit SSR neochrome spiked hardware

- McClean Bros wide arches with the lips painstakingly removed and reprofiled.

- ABS Motorsport rear lip spoiler.

- ABS Motorsport smoothed fibreglass bonnet with quick release hinges and DSN billet hinge lifters.

- KAD billet alloy front hubs with heavy duty ball joints

- Minispares Billet alloy 4 pot front callipers

- Jap style external oil cooler, made from a Nissan 240sx differential cooler, with nylon braided hoses.

- The grille is a steel 'weld-in' type usually found on Mini variants (pickup/estate/van), but I have adapted it to fit with screw on grille buttons for ease of access.

- Full Safety Devices roll cage from 1981 powder coated black.

- Spax adjustable shock absorbers.

- Hi-Lo adjustable suspension all round.

- Immaculate Recaro LX seats from a Suzuki Ignis Sport mounted on custom subframes.

- One-off Kingfab steering wheel in midnight purple.

- Full JBL speaker setup, including 6" woofers in the dash, 6x9's in the rear parcel shelf, and an 1800w sub.

- Rear seat delete, replaced with carpeted boards which house the subwoofer and fire extinguisher

- Sony head unit.

- Homemade dash and parcel shelf, made from 70's pub coasters all carefully cut and collaged together, before being given 2 coats of PVA, and 4 coats of varnish.

- Homemade center console wrapped in leatherette with real alloy diamond plate.

- Full WiredByWilson LED toggle switch kit.

- custom washer bottle made from a Coca Cola drinking straw tin.

- Full XKGlow underglow LED neon kit from America.

- Full LED rear light/indicator conversion

- LED Land Rover Defender Headlights with integrated indicators and custom strobe flasher unit built in.

- One-off custom side lights to replace the old indicators.

- Tinted rear lights/side repeaters.

- Subtle window tint on all rear windows.

- Custom sunstrip.

 

Cheers

Chris

 



#2 Maccmike8

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 04:57 PM

I would look at it from - if it was written off - how much would it cost to replace/rebuild. Reckon youd be closer to £20-25k than £12k. Just my opinion.



#3 johnR

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 05:21 PM

For the insurance I would put it at the cost of replicating it 



#4 Chris1992

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Posted 26 July 2021 - 05:54 PM

I would look at it from - if it was written off - how much would it cost to replace/rebuild. Reckon youd be closer to £20-25k than £12k. Just my opinion.

 

Exactly what I was thinking mate. I think I'll go for 25k and see what they say. 



#5 Lucas1988

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 01:56 PM

Chris,

Great to see the recent incarnation of this.

mine is currently valued at 28k but you can get people like The Cooper Register and some specialist garages do valuations based on spec and how much it would cost to replace if there was an accident.

I just sent some photos of the car and what work has been done. Who do you insure with?



#6 surfblue

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 04:27 PM

Love the 'purist' plates, the exact opposite.

#7 Homersimpson

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 09:23 PM

I agree with the above, its the cost to replicate that its important as you couldn't just go and buy another one :-)



#8 sonikk4

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 09:52 PM

This is why i have kept every receipt for the build of my car. You have to factor everything you have bought and then had done / done yourself.

 

It all adds up and even then your time is another factor. I think of all of the man hours i have put in and you need to do the same.

 

And of course having photographic evidence is another thing as well. All of this helps to back up what you think the insurance valuation should be.

 

Good luck with it and your car does look the dogs danglies.



#9 Chris1992

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Posted 08 August 2021 - 01:56 PM

Chris,

Great to see the recent incarnation of this.

mine is currently valued at 28k but you can get people like The Cooper Register and some specialist garages do valuations based on spec and how much it would cost to replace if there was an accident.

I just sent some photos of the car and what work has been done. Who do you insure with?

 

Thanks mate! I'd never even considered the cooper register, or even getting it valued by any external company. I'll look into it! I'm insured with Lancaster.

 

Love the 'purist' plates, the exact opposite.

 

Bit of tounge in cheek humour  :shifty:

 

I agree with the above, its the cost to replicate that its important as you couldn't just go and buy another one :-)

 

 

This is why i have kept every receipt for the build of my car. You have to factor everything you have bought and then had done / done yourself.

 

It all adds up and even then your time is another factor. I think of all of the man hours i have put in and you need to do the same.

 

And of course having photographic evidence is another thing as well. All of this helps to back up what you think the insurance valuation should be.

 

Good luck with it and your car does look the dogs danglies.

 

Unfortunately I don't have a single receipt  >_< except for big things like the engine, wheels, etc.

 

Thanks mate. So far I have sent an essay to them with the entire spec list and photos, including screenshots of what mint City E's are going for these days, as well as evidence of what the SC 16v conversion kit alone costs. Hopefully that will do the trick! 



#10 Steve220

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Posted 08 August 2021 - 08:15 PM

I had £25k in my mind too. Mine's beem revalued as prices of minis are going through the roof!




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