11 replies to this topic

[kiwimike01]

Hey guys I have just been through the process of replacing basically every part of the cooling system and upon heating it up to flush the block the temp gauge doesn't move at all. I have earthed the sender end of the wire to see if it moves but it doesn't. The fuel gauge works fine as it it is a dual clock gauge.
Is there a way to check the gauge with a multimeter to see if it's faulty or how would I check the continuity of the sender wire to see if that could be the fault?
If it's the gauge itself that is broken I will have to buy a new one and mount it somewhere else.

Attached Files

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[Chris1275gt]

To Check continuity pull the wire off and it’s between the spade connector on the sender and the brass body of the sender.

Edited by Chris1275gt, 27 September 2021 - 08:27 AM.

[sonscar]

Is the spade still connected to the wire and not just the insulation?Steve..

[Tornado99]

It could be the voltage regulator could be dead. These guages run off 10volts and there is a mechanical device used to turn the 12-14 volts from alternator into 10 volts. This is part of the dual clock circuit board on your setup. There are ways to bypass the device and use a modern electronic voltage regulator. Search forums for where to connect it to your circuit board.

[Spider]

While this was written around the fuel gauge fitted to the centre clocks, it does apply equally to the double and triple clocks too;-

 

https://www.theminif...hs-fuel-gauges/

 

[kiwimike01]

I have pulled the clocks apart and came across this part of the wire that looks like it is hanging on by 1 thread. I've attached a photo. Could this be why it isn't working? And is it fixable? ( I have pulled the fuel gauge out too and it looks sort of similar but works so maybe it's not the issue?)

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Edited by kiwimike01, 03 October 2021 - 12:30 AM.

[kiwimike01]

While tinkering with the gauge that wire in the photo above has now fully come off so it is now broken. Before this broke I'm pretty sure there was continuity of the gauge because my multimeter had a resistance reading and now there is none with the wire broken off. Is it possible to solder it or can you buy replacement gauges? Has a 085 sticker on the back.

 

I have had a play with a multimeter with the gauge cluster back in the car and I get 12 volts at the stabilizer point B. Then with the stabilizer back in the cluster I get varying volts on the fuel gauge at both ends (with I think is normal) but on the temp gauge I only get the varying volts at one end of the gauge. The other terminal there is no read so I'm guessing it is a faulty gauge. I'm not sure if the one strand of wire on the terminal in the photo above was causing it before I fully broke it but now is there a way to repair it or should I buy a separate temp gauge and mount it somewhere else?

Edited by kiwimike01, 03 October 2021 - 03:01 AM.

[GraemeC]

I'm not sure they're available new anymore, but lots of used ones about I'm sure.

I have a couple of old clusters, but I'm probably on the wrong side of the world for it to be viable to get one to you.

[kiwimike01]

Thanks I think you might be. I will ask around on some New Zealand mini forums and see what I can find.

[Spider]

I've found these gauges to be usually fairly robust and long lasting as long as they are not handled too much. I'd suggest rather than replacing them with some aftermarket gauges to get another cluster set. If you luck out locally, you'll almost certainly find a set across the ditch.

[kiwimike01]

Thanks yea I've found a guy with three clusters so will get them and give them a go. Will post my answer when I can.

Also the screws for the face of the temp and fuel gauge are quite rounded off and the glass piece is missing two retaining clips so I'd say someone has tried to fix this before and maybe broken something.

Edited by kiwimike01, 04 October 2021 - 06:10 PM.

[kiwimike01]

So I'm such an idiot.

 

I bought the spare gauge clusters and changed the temp gauge. To my surprise it still didn't work so was back to the drawing board. Pulled out the trusty haynes manual and flipped to the wiring diagram. I had noticed before that the wire going to the temp sensor wasn't the correct colour of Green and Blue but was Green and Red so didn't read too much into it.

But this time thought I would investigate further to start eliminating possible faults. Turns out there is a heat sleeve over this wire back to the loom and upon looking under this sleeve I noticed it was indeed a Green and Blue wire that turned into a Green and Red wire. Someone at some point had cut and changed the end for some reason and that solder joint had failed. A quick cut and tie the 2 wires together and magic, it works again.