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20W50 Synthetic Oil?


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#1 Zami

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 03:28 AM

Anyone using synthetic oils in a classic mini?  Pros v cons.



#2 Steve220

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 08:06 AM

Pros - readily availably

 

Cons - Synchromechs will die quickly, gear changes will become laboured and you'll be replacing parts.



#3 pete l

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 09:02 AM

Pros - readily availably

 

Cons - Synchromechs will die quickly, gear changes will become laboured and you'll be replacing parts.

 

Does anyone know why people think this  ?

 

I ran a brand new MG metro TURBO on mobile 1 for over 50000 miles and it was fine when I sold it.



#4 timmy850

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 09:50 AM

Apparently old seals used to fail when you swapped to synthetic oils too? If you’ve put seals in the last couple of decades they should be fine

I’ve been reading this again this week, it’s written by a mini owner who is also an oil engineer. My current issue with the standard 20/50 oil is that it’s taking way too long to get oil to the top end on a cold start. His suggestion of 10/40 might help with that
https://www.widman.b...ic-mini-oil.pdf

#5 whistler

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 09:55 AM

When Mobil released Mobil 1 they also produced Delvac 1, which was for diesels. All of our tankers in Killingholme terminal were switched to this new wonder oil. A few months later it was all drained out and conventional 10w40 put back in. The oil consumption on Delvac 1 shot up so much we were topping up the oil every shift. New engines filled with Delvac 1 didn't suffer with the same problem. Draw your own conclusions about using synthetic oil in a worn engine.



#6 bluedragon

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 11:02 AM

Ran synthetic for 36,000 miles, including a 5,000 mile single trip in hot summer weather. No synchro failure, and shifting was the same as when I bought the Mini.

 

 

Dave



#7 Steve220

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 11:57 AM


Pros - readily availably

Cons - Synchromechs will die quickly, gear changes will become laboured and you'll be replacing parts.


Does anyone know why people think this ?

I ran a brand new MG metro TURBO on mobile 1 for over 50000 miles and it was fine when I sold it.


http://imgur.com/a/GDahP31

#8 sonscar

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 12:52 PM

On all the clunkers I have owned the slowness of oil to reach the top was directly related to big end and mains wear.You may be lucky.
Why do you think oil is slow to reach the top,not as if it has overhead cams or hydraulic tappets?Steve.

#9 gazza82

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 03:26 PM

Isn't it down to the low Zinc (ZDDP) content of synthetic oil? Needed for the old style bronze bushes etc in the Mini box.

Edited by gazza82, 04 October 2021 - 03:32 PM.


#10 Dusky

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 03:51 PM

Isn't it down to the low Zinc (ZDDP) content of synthetic oil? Needed for the old style bronze bushes etc in the Mini box.


No, synethics can have high zinc levels like amsoil Z rod ( THE BEST oil I've ever used)

#11 Shooter63

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 05:24 PM

I think the Widman paper put to bed all the myths/wives tales/Internet dross that people believed and people took as gospel, oil nowadays is so much better than even 10 years ago let alone 60 year ago when the mini was developed. Back in the day engine life was so low manufacturers used to sell re-con units ( gold/silver seal) but even the good old A+ units can get 100k before flying apart.
The problem is that most 20w/50 is pretty low grade stuff, there are a few good ones but it ain't cheap simply because it's made is such small quantities in relation to other grades. After looking around Fuzz Townsends company sell a 10w/40 with plenty on zinc in it for flat tappet engine

Shooter

#12 Zami

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 06:46 PM

And then there’s semi-synthetic.



#13 Miki Leyland

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 08:50 PM

I think the Widman paper put to bed all the myths/wives tales/Internet dross that people believed and people took as gospel, oil nowadays is so much better than even 10 years ago let alone 60 year ago when the mini was developed. Back in the day engine life was so low manufacturers used to sell re-con units ( gold/silver seal) but even the good old A+ units can get 100k before flying apart.
The problem is that most 20w/50 is pretty low grade stuff, there are a few good ones but it ain't cheap simply because it's made is such small quantities in relation to other grades. After looking around Fuzz Townsends company sell a 10w/40 with plenty on zinc in it for flat tappet engine

Shooter

Synthetic oil is better lubricating and lasting in time. But when your car has all the gear box inside the engine, it is not all about the lubrication capacity, as some parts need a specific ammount of friction between them to work properly, like the syncros for instance. It's all about "for which oil, petrol type, coolant etc was this engine designed at the time" more than "what is better Today".


Edited by Miki Leyland, 04 October 2021 - 08:53 PM.


#14 timmy850

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Posted 04 October 2021 - 09:04 PM


Pros - readily availably

Cons - Synchromechs will die quickly, gear changes will become laboured and you'll be replacing parts.

Does anyone know why people think this ?

I ran a brand new MG metro TURBO on mobile 1 for over 50000 miles and it was fine when I sold it.

http://imgur.com/a/GDahP31
That’s why he specifically says don’t use SN grade oil, as it has the friction modifiers added. The lesser grades don’t

#15 Zami

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 12:51 AM

Came across another entry on this exact subject dated 2008..   Of course it is 14+ yrs. Old and the oil formulas have changed during that time so while it may not be current it does provide some interest information.  
 

I was surprised no one brought up motorcycle oils where the the engine and tranny use the same oil.

 

https://www.theminif...-classic-minis/






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