13 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

I am building a 1310 road engine for the odd track day maybe.

A+ 1275

Hepolite P21253 +40 Pistons

4.5 thou Deck Height

AC RS Cam

MED ST1 Lightened Flywheel and Performance Road Clutch Kit

AC 1.3 Rockers (Not yet purchased)

3.44 Diff

Metro Electronic Dizzy (to be re-curved) - will be swapped out for a non dizzy Megajolt or equivalent trigger wheel setup hopefully before recurving the Metro Dizzy 

 

Now contemplating a Supercharger (subject of many other threads and posts on FB etc looking for info).

 

The idea is to finish building the engine up but ensure that when fitting the SC it will just be a head off and external modification, with all the internal parts sufficient for the additional torque.

 

Current build has a MED ST1 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel along with a 3.44 Single Molybendium Pin Diff (Built by John Guess), however for the increased Torque I have been advised change the Diff to a Cross Pin 3.1 and to look for an RTS clutch to be on the safe side. 

 

Found a post either on Turbo Minis showing how to build an RTS yourself as well as this excellent video by Stuart Gurr, where he builds an RTS that is good for 180 ft/lbs using two old clutches.

 

Questions:

 

1. Could I convert and use the ST1 and add another spring plate and swap the clutch disc for a spring one?

2. Thoughts on the 3.1 as opposed to the 3.44

 

MED have just messaged me and said the ST1 is good up to 70ft/lb, which is actually below the expected Tq of my non Forced Induction build anyway

 

[nicklouse]

Which ST1 do you have. pre Verto or Verto.

[JonnyAlpha]

Which ST1 do you have. pre Verto or Verto.

It’s the Verto

[Steve220]

 

Which ST1 do you have. pre Verto or Verto.

It’s the Verto

 

 

Yes you can, you'll need a 998cc verto cover to offset it though, otherwise you'll need a left leg like popeye (although i linished mine together and used charcoal powder between the plates and it noticeably improved pedal feel).

 

I am building a 1310 road engine for the odd track day maybe.

A+ 1275

Hepolite P21253 +40 Pistons

4.5 thou Deck Height

AC RS Cam

MED ST1 Lightened Flywheel and Performance Road Clutch Kit

AC 1.3 Rockers (Not yet purchased)

3.44 Diff

Metro Electronic Dizzy (to be re-curved) - will be swapped out for a non dizzy Megajolt or equivalent trigger wheel setup hopefully before recurving the Metro Dizzy 

 

Now contemplating a Supercharger (subject of many other threads and posts on FB etc looking for info).

 

The idea is to finish building the engine up but ensure that when fitting the SC it will just be a head off and external modification, with all the internal parts sufficient for the additional torque.

 

Current build has a MED ST1 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel along with a 3.44 Single Molybendium Pin Diff (Built by John Guess), however for the increased Torque I have been advised change the Diff to a Cross Pin 3.1 and to look for an RTS clutch to be on the safe side. 

 

Found a post either on Turbo Minis showing how to build an RTS yourself as well as this excellent video by Stuart Gurr, where he builds an RTS that is good for 180 ft/lbs using two old clutches.

 

Questions:

 

1. Could I convert and use the ST1 and add another spring plate and swap the clutch disc for a spring one?

2. Thoughts on the 3.1 as opposed to the 3.44

 

MED have just messaged me and said the ST1 is good up to 70ft/lb, which is actually below the expected Tq of my non Forced Induction build anyway

 

3.1 or 2.9. 3.44 is short for a boosted engine.

[JonnyAlpha]

 

 

Which ST1 do you have. pre Verto or Verto.

It’s the Verto

 

 

Yes you can, you'll need a 998cc verto cover to offset it though, otherwise you'll need a left leg like popeye (although i linished mine together and used charcoal powder between the plates and it noticeably improved pedal feel).

 

I am building a 1310 road engine for the odd track day maybe.

A+ 1275

Hepolite P21253 +40 Pistons

4.5 thou Deck Height

AC RS Cam

MED ST1 Lightened Flywheel and Performance Road Clutch Kit

AC 1.3 Rockers (Not yet purchased)

3.44 Diff

Metro Electronic Dizzy (to be re-curved) - will be swapped out for a non dizzy Megajolt or equivalent trigger wheel setup hopefully before recurving the Metro Dizzy 

 

Now contemplating a Supercharger (subject of many other threads and posts on FB etc looking for info).

 

The idea is to finish building the engine up but ensure that when fitting the SC it will just be a head off and external modification, with all the internal parts sufficient for the additional torque.

 

Current build has a MED ST1 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel along with a 3.44 Single Molybendium Pin Diff (Built by John Guess), however for the increased Torque I have been advised change the Diff to a Cross Pin 3.1 and to look for an RTS clutch to be on the safe side. 

 

Found a post either on Turbo Minis showing how to build an RTS yourself as well as this excellent video by Stuart Gurr, where he builds an RTS that is good for 180 ft/lbs using two old clutches.

 

Questions:

 

1. Could I convert and use the ST1 and add another spring plate and swap the clutch disc for a spring one?

2. Thoughts on the 3.1 as opposed to the 3.44

 

MED have just messaged me and said the ST1 is good up to 70ft/lb, which is actually below the expected Tq of my non Forced Induction build anyway

 

3.1 or 2.9. 3.44 is short for a boosted engine.

 

What's the difference between the 998 and 1275 clutch covers?

[nicklouse]

 

 

 

Which ST1 do you have. pre Verto or Verto.

It’s the Verto

 

 

Yes you can, you'll need a 998cc verto cover to offset it though, otherwise you'll need a left leg like popeye (although i linished mine together and used charcoal powder between the plates and it noticeably improved pedal feel).

 

I am building a 1310 road engine for the odd track day maybe.

A+ 1275

Hepolite P21253 +40 Pistons

4.5 thou Deck Height

AC RS Cam

MED ST1 Lightened Flywheel and Performance Road Clutch Kit

AC 1.3 Rockers (Not yet purchased)

3.44 Diff

Metro Electronic Dizzy (to be re-curved) - will be swapped out for a non dizzy Megajolt or equivalent trigger wheel setup hopefully before recurving the Metro Dizzy 

 

Now contemplating a Supercharger (subject of many other threads and posts on FB etc looking for info).

 

The idea is to finish building the engine up but ensure that when fitting the SC it will just be a head off and external modification, with all the internal parts sufficient for the additional torque.

 

Current build has a MED ST1 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel along with a 3.44 Single Molybendium Pin Diff (Built by John Guess), however for the increased Torque I have been advised change the Diff to a Cross Pin 3.1 and to look for an RTS clutch to be on the safe side. 

 

Found a post either on Turbo Minis showing how to build an RTS yourself as well as this excellent video by Stuart Gurr, where he builds an RTS that is good for 180 ft/lbs using two old clutches.

 

Questions:

 

1. Could I convert and use the ST1 and add another spring plate and swap the clutch disc for a spring one?

2. Thoughts on the 3.1 as opposed to the 3.44

 

MED have just messaged me and said the ST1 is good up to 70ft/lb, which is actually below the expected Tq of my non Forced Induction build anyway

 

3.1 or 2.9. 3.44 is short for a boosted engine.

 

What's the difference between the 998 and 1275 clutch covers?

 

Nothing other than the breather.

[JonnyAlpha]

 

 

 

 

Which ST1 do you have. pre Verto or Verto.

It’s the Verto

 

 

Yes you can, you'll need a 998cc verto cover to offset it though, otherwise you'll need a left leg like popeye (although i linished mine together and used charcoal powder between the plates and it noticeably improved pedal feel).

 

I am building a 1310 road engine for the odd track day maybe.

A+ 1275

Hepolite P21253 +40 Pistons

4.5 thou Deck Height

AC RS Cam

MED ST1 Lightened Flywheel and Performance Road Clutch Kit

AC 1.3 Rockers (Not yet purchased)

3.44 Diff

Metro Electronic Dizzy (to be re-curved) - will be swapped out for a non dizzy Megajolt or equivalent trigger wheel setup hopefully before recurving the Metro Dizzy 

 

Now contemplating a Supercharger (subject of many other threads and posts on FB etc looking for info).

 

The idea is to finish building the engine up but ensure that when fitting the SC it will just be a head off and external modification, with all the internal parts sufficient for the additional torque.

 

Current build has a MED ST1 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel along with a 3.44 Single Molybendium Pin Diff (Built by John Guess), however for the increased Torque I have been advised change the Diff to a Cross Pin 3.1 and to look for an RTS clutch to be on the safe side. 

 

Found a post either on Turbo Minis showing how to build an RTS yourself as well as this excellent video by Stuart Gurr, where he builds an RTS that is good for 180 ft/lbs using two old clutches.

 

Questions:

 

1. Could I convert and use the ST1 and add another spring plate and swap the clutch disc for a spring one?

2. Thoughts on the 3.1 as opposed to the 3.44

 

MED have just messaged me and said the ST1 is good up to 70ft/lb, which is actually below the expected Tq of my non Forced Induction build anyway

 

3.1 or 2.9. 3.44 is short for a boosted engine.

 

What's the difference between the 998 and 1275 clutch covers?

 

Nothing other than the breather.

 

 

I think he's talking about the pressure plate? Not the Aluminium Clutch Cover?

[JonnyAlpha]

 

 

Which ST1 do you have. pre Verto or Verto.

It’s the Verto

 

 

Yes you can, you'll need a 998cc verto cover to offset it though, otherwise you'll need a left leg like popeye (although i linished mine together and used charcoal powder between the plates and it noticeably improved pedal feel).

 

I am building a 1310 road engine for the odd track day maybe.

A+ 1275

Hepolite P21253 +40 Pistons

4.5 thou Deck Height

AC RS Cam

MED ST1 Lightened Flywheel and Performance Road Clutch Kit

AC 1.3 Rockers (Not yet purchased)

3.44 Diff

Metro Electronic Dizzy (to be re-curved) - will be swapped out for a non dizzy Megajolt or equivalent trigger wheel setup hopefully before recurving the Metro Dizzy 

 

Now contemplating a Supercharger (subject of many other threads and posts on FB etc looking for info).

 

The idea is to finish building the engine up but ensure that when fitting the SC it will just be a head off and external modification, with all the internal parts sufficient for the additional torque.

 

Current build has a MED ST1 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel along with a 3.44 Single Molybendium Pin Diff (Built by John Guess), however for the increased Torque I have been advised change the Diff to a Cross Pin 3.1 and to look for an RTS clutch to be on the safe side. 

 

Found a post either on Turbo Minis showing how to build an RTS yourself as well as this excellent video by Stuart Gurr, where he builds an RTS that is good for 180 ft/lbs using two old clutches.

 

Questions:

 

1. Could I convert and use the ST1 and add another spring plate and swap the clutch disc for a spring one?

2. Thoughts on the 3.1 as opposed to the 3.44

 

MED have just messaged me and said the ST1 is good up to 70ft/lb, which is actually below the expected Tq of my non Forced Induction build anyway

 

3.1 or 2.9. 3.44 is short for a boosted engine.

 

 

Steve 220 what do you mean by this?

 

Yes you can, you'll need a 998cc verto cover to offset it though, otherwise you'll need a left leg like popeye (although i linished mine together and used charcoal powder between the plates and it noticeably improved pedal feel).

 

I have an MED ST1 Verto Clutch and Lightened flywheel setup, is the 998 pressure plate different? 

[nicklouse]

 

 

 

 

 

Which ST1 do you have. pre Verto or Verto.

It’s the Verto

 

 

Yes you can, you'll need a 998cc verto cover to offset it though, otherwise you'll need a left leg like popeye (although i linished mine together and used charcoal powder between the plates and it noticeably improved pedal feel).

 

I am building a 1310 road engine for the odd track day maybe.

A+ 1275

Hepolite P21253 +40 Pistons

4.5 thou Deck Height

AC RS Cam

MED ST1 Lightened Flywheel and Performance Road Clutch Kit

AC 1.3 Rockers (Not yet purchased)

3.44 Diff

Metro Electronic Dizzy (to be re-curved) - will be swapped out for a non dizzy Megajolt or equivalent trigger wheel setup hopefully before recurving the Metro Dizzy 

 

Now contemplating a Supercharger (subject of many other threads and posts on FB etc looking for info).

 

The idea is to finish building the engine up but ensure that when fitting the SC it will just be a head off and external modification, with all the internal parts sufficient for the additional torque.

 

Current build has a MED ST1 Clutch and Lightened Flywheel along with a 3.44 Single Molybendium Pin Diff (Built by John Guess), however for the increased Torque I have been advised change the Diff to a Cross Pin 3.1 and to look for an RTS clutch to be on the safe side. 

 

Found a post either on Turbo Minis showing how to build an RTS yourself as well as this excellent video by Stuart Gurr, where he builds an RTS that is good for 180 ft/lbs using two old clutches.

 

Questions:

 

1. Could I convert and use the ST1 and add another spring plate and swap the clutch disc for a spring one?

2. Thoughts on the 3.1 as opposed to the 3.44

 

MED have just messaged me and said the ST1 is good up to 70ft/lb, which is actually below the expected Tq of my non Forced Induction build anyway

 

3.1 or 2.9. 3.44 is short for a boosted engine.

 

What's the difference between the 998 and 1275 clutch covers?

 

Nothing other than the breather.

 

 

I think he's talking about the pressure plate? Not the Aluminium Clutch Cover?

 

The Verto diaphragm were all the same. As were the woks and the transfer housing is the same other than the breather for the 998-1275. The other difference was nothing to do with engine size but age. Early or late drop gears.

[Steve220]

The 998 clutch cover spring is thinner. Speak to those that have made the RTS, they're machined to spec of the spring thicknesses.

Edited by Steve220, 29 November 2021 - 08:54 PM.

[Steve220]

Here's a pic of mine. 998 plate on top, 1275 underneath. Thicknesses are different.

https://imgur.com/a/ptagaop

If you're still not sure, ask on the mini turbo and supercharger Facebook group. Simon, who makes these day in, day out (and also made both of mine) will explain more.

[Steve220]

http://www.turbomini...p=vt&tid=437563

Article on how to make them

[JonnyAlpha]

Here's a pic of mine. 998 plate on top, 1275 underneath. Thicknesses are different.

https://imgur.com/a/ptagaop

If you're still not sure, ask on the mini turbo and supercharger Facebook group. Simon, who makes these day in, day out (and also made both of mine) will explain more.

Steve220. Which Simon on the Turbo and Supercharged Group, there’s several Simons 🤣

[Steve220]

Here's a pic of mine. 998 plate on top, 1275 underneath. Thicknesses are different.

https://imgur.com/a/ptagaop

If you're still not sure, ask on the mini turbo and supercharger Facebook group. Simon, who makes these day in, day out (and also made both of mine) will explain more.

Steve220. Which Simon on the Turbo and Supercharged Group, there’s several Simons 🤣

Only one that infamously does RTS, padjo. Also Paul Hickey and Stuart Gurr (vmaxscart) do them too.