13 replies to this topic

[SamMason]

Heyo!

I'm updating the ICE situation in my 1990 Mayfair, but have hit a snag. I'm replacing the old cassette player with a new stereo/head unit that I've had in stock for a while - may as well make use of it as it's been sat on a shelf for nearly 8 years. I'm also planning to add a pair of speakers to the front to compliment the existing speaker pods on the parcel shelf. Nothing fancy, just something to play a CD or connect my phone to.

Now my question is; what adapter should I be looking for to link the new head unit to the cars wiring harness?

I want to use existing wiring to start with just to see if the current speakers actually work before diving into replacing them and/or adding new stuff.

This link shows some pictures of the connectors under the dash (both of these were plugged into the old head unit), the back of the new head unit, and the adapter that came with it.

https://photos.app.g...m8kSGmJ8A6NewZ9

Any advice on what I need to connect it all up?

Thanks!

[nicklouse]

Your car is pre the introduction of the ISO plug so refer back to the cars wiring diagram in your Haynes manual or in the thread above. You then may find a universal adaptor can be spliced in.

[SamMason]

I see, thanks for the info! Haven't got my Haynes to hand, but I'll have a look through tomorrow.

So I presume there's no "off-the-shelf" adapters that might work then?
Do you know the type of connectors that are in the car at the moment?

[stuart bowes]

If I recall correctly (others may correct me on this) the switched live would be a green (can find connected to your brake pedal switch and the reverse switch for example)

 

the brown on the back of your headlights switch should be a permanent +12v  (Splice in and add an inline fuse if you want but most headunits have a little blade fuse on the back anyway)

 

earth would be black I'm sure you'll find one somewhere.. or just scratch off some paint on the inside of the bulkhead, drill a little hole (checking on the other side first obvs) and self tapper or bolt a ring terminal on.  then a dab of paint over the top to protect it

 

you can test all of that with voltmeter of course

 

speaker wire is speaker wire, put it wherever you need it to be

 

I just stripped my mini for the start of the build, so when I pulled out the loom and modified / re-wrapped it, I put in a 3 pin connector for head unit power so that sits bang in the middle of the dash with about a foot of slack

Edited by stuart bowes, 31 January 2022 - 05:58 PM.

[Tds76]

I think you need a DIN to ISO converter.

 

https://connects2.co...ctItem/CT20UV06

 

 

 

Cheers, Paul. 

Edited by Tds76, 31 January 2022 - 09:45 PM.

[stuart bowes]

I was comparing to mine which is an 88 and that had no standard connections for radio at all, nothing to connect a 'convertor' to

 

one of the previous owners (i assume, because of the quality of work) ran various lengths of 1.5mm to and from the engine bay and spliced into wherever they could find the right supply, it was a complete shambles lol  I guess it worked though that's the main thing

Edited by stuart bowes, 01 February 2022 - 12:23 AM.

[Tornado99]

I just watched a video from Japan of someone doing a headunit upgrade in a JDM mini. Though it had two standard connectors into oem radio, new unit wasn't compatible and no suitable off the shelf harness could be found. So she used a test lamp to ID all existing wires at the car side connectors and just crimped in the new unit lines to the old radio harness. Seemed like good option.

 

Here's the video....use the Closed Captions to see rough translation:

 

Edited by Tornado99, 01 February 2022 - 09:40 PM.

[coopertaz]

test lamp and haynes manual, then bullet connectors. I still do this on my classic now. maybe rough but pre iso and works

[roblightbody]

I think you need a DIN to ISO converter.

https://connects2.co...ctItem/CT20UV06



Cheers, Paul.

That's what I have in my 1990 Cooper.

[stuart bowes]

I actually just spotted you have a link with pictures of your connectors.. my bad sorry

 

so yes the convertor linked seems like the right option don't go splicing cables if not necessary obviously

[SamMason]

Thanks for the input Stuart - not been on TMF in a while so I missed your replies. 

 

Generally I work at a glacial pace so I've only completed half of the job, but it works... sort of... I couldn't any DIN/ISO adaptors at a reasonable price (or in stock). So I snipped the connectors off of the loom and ISO adaptor, and spliced them together. I didn't realise at the time that I need both switched and permanent lives to the new head unit, as the original only had a single power feed. So I have both of the red and yellow wires (from the head unit/ISO adaptor) connected into the switched live of the loom. This means that I have a head unit that works, but only when the ignition is on and doesn't save any presets or anything. 

 

I'll sort it and put it right soon - I was planning to take the permanent live from the starter solenoid. However I've just dropped the car off with a local specialist to complete an engine swap, so I figured it could wait until its back.

 

Just wondering about a fuse on the permanent live - Yay or Nay? The Head Unit does have a blade fuse built into the back of it, so will I need an extra?

 

 

 

On the speaker front, the parcel shelf pods were not in good nick, they were crackling and buzzing - possibly the original items from the factory so I assume they'll be at least 32 years old. So I've taken them out and replaced them with a new set of pods from Classic Car Stereos - https://www.classicc...-sold-in-pairs/ which have greatly improved the situation. Once I've decided how I want to set up the speakers in the front I'll get them sorted... albeit at a glacial pace!

Edited by SamMason, 25 February 2022 - 04:27 PM.

[stuart bowes]

wondering about a fuse on the permanent live - Yay or Nay? The Head Unit does have a blade fuse built into the back of it, so will I need an extra?

 

I wouldn't bother myself as you say the headunit is fused anyway

[SamMason]

wondering about a fuse on the permanent live - Yay or Nay? The Head Unit does have a blade fuse built into the back of it, so will I need an extra?

I wouldn't bother myself as you say the headunit is fused anyway

Ah Ok, good to know!

[beardylondon]

This is what I used when converting my 1990
Cooper to modern ISO, much cheaper on fleabay.

I think you need a DIN to ISO converter.

https://connects2.co...ctItem/CT20UV06



Cheers, Paul.