
Drivers Side Wheel Too Close To Front Of Arch
#16
Posted 03 January 2022 - 04:26 PM
#17
Posted 03 January 2022 - 04:31 PM
The caster will try to track so there's equal drag on both sides. Depending on the wheel offset that could make one side look farther forward, the steering wheel would likely be offset though.
A serious triangulating session should reveal the cause..
Find somewhere flat & level, put the subframes and/or body on stands so suspension articulation isn't leading you astray (also easier with the wheels off). Then measure distances between all the points you can comparing left with right. Where you have a corresponding pair on either side measuring the diagonals between them will say if it's twisted - e.g L tie rod end to R rear subframe mounting should be the same R tie rod to L rear mounting.
.....just adding it's not obliged to be the front, knocking the rear out of true can also have you steering off to a side to compensate.
#18
Posted 03 January 2022 - 06:35 PM
#19
Posted 04 January 2022 - 02:29 PM
Sadly it is a twisted subframe.
#20
Posted 04 January 2022 - 03:39 PM
#21
Posted 05 January 2022 - 02:50 PM
Surely a twisted subframe means a twisted body. The subframe is 10 times stronger than the mini body.
#22
Posted 05 January 2022 - 04:30 PM
The rack will not move the wheel forward.Something has physically moved.I would look closely at the side that looks OK.As mentioned a bent tie rod or mounting ear on the affected side will cause this.It has moved a lot y the pictures.Bad luck,hope it is cheap to repair,Steve..
A BFH judiciously applied to the offending tie bar front mount will sort that. BMC main dealer approved adjustment in years gone by.... other more scientific means are available.
Edited by surfblue, 05 January 2022 - 04:31 PM.
#23
Posted 05 January 2022 - 07:27 PM
#24
Posted 05 January 2022 - 11:43 PM
I have to be careful advising things as I am an inveterate bodger well versed in repairing old chod with hammers and pliers.Steve..
Thats a damn fine example of honesty. Lol
#25
Posted 06 January 2022 - 10:00 AM
It is normally the 'ear' into which the tie rod(s) fit which bend.
This was common-place on rally cars 'back in the day' and we used to take the tie rod off, heat up the eat with an oxy torch and use a 'Porta-Power' to push the ear back into the correct position (or, indeed, a BFH). Fitting adjustable tie-rods then used to enable the fine adjustment to be made.
However, if the sub-frame is bent elsewhere it may be a different matter. Apart from the tie bar ears, the sub-frame is very strong and,as already stated, it seems likely that the sub-frame mounting points will have been distorted if the frame is bent elsewhere.
So inspect the floor and bulkhead where the frame is mounted, then check the frame visually and measure the position of the ears. In order to do this accurately, remove the tie bars first.
In the worst case, the mounting points can be 'adjusted' once the sub-frame is removed and second hand sub-frames are fine so long as you measure them accurately first, i.e. before paying for one.
#26
Posted 07 March 2022 - 07:28 PM
So, the subframe was not twisted (after measuring at first I thought it was but I was not measuring across the diagonals correctly) but it was rather rusty so replaced it anyway, and practically rebuilt the entire front of the car, replacing most of the parts. Not entirely sure still as to what was causing the alignment issue but suspect it was a combination of things as is often the case! Tracking also professionally carried out which now makes the car run true.
Edited by kkeith, 21 September 2023 - 04:06 AM.
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