16 replies to this topic

[alpder]

Hi All,

 

I'd like to drop a 1275 Metro A+ engine/box into my '68 Woody Traveler. The big issue is the car has a magic-wand gearbox and I don't want to hack the floor about for the rod(?) change on the Metro. I also want to keep the 1:3.44 Metro FD.

 

And - just to make things really awkward - I plan to store the original 998 engine/box - without splitting them - ready to rebuild the car as-original one day far in the future. So those original gearbox parts won't be available for doing the transplant.

• So.... what extra parts will I need to buy to convert my Metro engine/box into a magic wand, please? Presumably a remote-change or magic-wand gearbox casing, because the Metro rod-change won't take a magic-wand mechanism, or so I've read. And no doubt other bits too. Transfer-gear conversion bearings?
• And would there be any other parts I'll need to change, such as driveshafts?
• Can anyone see a showstopper with this, that'll make it impossible or require major changes to the car itself?
• And - finally - I've read there may be issues with big-end clearances with a 1275 on an early gearbox casing. Is that correct or just internet myth?

I'm fairly experienced with 60's/70's car resto's. But only ever played with two Minis - 30 years ago - and even then I didn't have to do anything serious with the drivetrains.

 

Cheers,
Ian.

[Sleeping Park Lane]

Hi Ian and welcome to the forum!

 

A couple of threads that might help you:

 

https://www.theminif...to-1275-engine/

 

https://forum.retro-...1275-conversion

 

And do think about the brakes! :) 

Steve

[nicklouse]

You really need to use the magic wand box as the diff casing are machined to match the gearbox casing.  But in this case the cases are totally different. 
 

the 1275 may require the older casing to have some metal removed to allow the con rods to clear.

[mab01uk]

The later 4-syncro gearbox was available with remote (or magic wand on basic 850 Mk2 and early Mk3 Minis plus van/pickup) but the 4-syncro with wand type change are harder to find in the UK now. These will be easier to fit with a 1275 A+ without casing clearance mods than an earlier 3-syncro box plus a lot nicer to drive. As you mentioned transfer-gear conversion bearing will be needed for A+ flywheel housing.

 

The Mk1 Forum has details and photos on converting a 4-syncro remote gearbox to magic wand but you will need to register to view the 'Technical Topics' thread linked below:-

Converting a Remote box to use Magic wand gear stick?

http://mk1-forum.net...php?f=3&t=11555

 

"From late 1968 when the gearbox went over from 3 to 4 synchromesh, they shared the same differential housing - prior to that, the direct wand gearchange had its own unique diff housing with a small gearchange tower on it."

 

However be aware that the remote gear change and rod gear change do add extra resistance to engine 'rock' movements and a 1275 with a magic wand will probably require some extra steady bars gearbox to subframe to resist torque forces. (Later Minis have them or there are aftermarket engine steadies).

Edited by mab01uk, 07 January 2022 - 07:55 PM.

[alpder]

Thanks everyone. This has been a big advance in my understanding of the issues. Still lots to learn, obviously.

 

I'll try to find a 4-synchro box. Either remote and mod it, or (better) a magic wand one. Hoping to just drop all the Metro cogs into it... as far as I can tell that's a plan that will fly?

 

If I can't find another box, the car is a very late 1968 Mk2 so - just possibly - it already has a 4-sychro on it and I'll reluctantly have to split the old engine/box and use that one. I won't know until I get it here. Currently it's on the other side of the country still in the paint-shop who had the car when the (lockdown?) project was abandoned by the seller.

 

Better brakes... absolutely! I'll be keeping the 10" steel wheels and don't want flares, so MiniSpares 7.5" disc kit is my plan with the offset rear drums to match. Has anyone managed to get 4-pots to fit under standard steel wheels without spacers? Or am I stuck with 2-pots? MiniSpares are a bit ambiguous about whether their 4-pots will fit.

[MrBounce]

And if you don't fancy doing any of the work yourself, have a chat with John at Guessworks - he's a cracking guy who gives an excellent service - what he doesn't know about gearboxes isn't worth knowing,

 

He also does "hybrid" boxes so you can have a stronger wand box: http://www.guess-wor.../NewProduct.htm

[Spider]

As linked in Steve's post;-

 

Hi Ian and welcome to the forum!

 

A couple of threads that might help you:

 

https://www.theminif...to-1275-engine/

 

https://forum.retro-...1275-conversion

 

And do think about the brakes! :) 

Steve

 

,,,, it can absolutely be done with a Rod Shift Gearbox;-

 

 

using the shifter mechanism from a 1974 - 1979 model Moke, that in the centre of these 3.

[Ethel]

They'd be hard to find in the UK, am I right in thinking the only difference is the length of the rods?

[Spider]

They'd be hard to find in the UK, am I right in thinking the only difference is the length of the rods?

 

I think you might be surprised at how many are kicking around in the UK. The length of the rods, the mount and the stick itself are the only differences. Other parts are common with the Mini, in fact, I have made up many from Mini Shifters.

[mab01uk]

Using the rod shifter mechanism from a 1974 - 1979 model Moke as Spider suggests would certainly be a lot easier and give a much nicer gear change with the A+ Metro gearbox and a wand gearlever. Original magic wand 3 & 4 syncro gearboxes although period for basic early Minis, are often not great in use, especially with some wear in the system....

Edited by mab01uk, 08 January 2022 - 10:02 AM.

[Ethel]

 

They'd be hard to find in the UK, am I right in thinking the only difference is the length of the rods?

 

I think you might be surprised at how many are kicking around in the UK. The length of the rods, the mount and the stick itself are the only differences. Other parts are common with the Mini, in fact, I have made up many from Mini Shifters.

 

 

Of course, the stick too    - that is available, with added bling, if a little pricey

 

https://kentautodeve...t=4891031142437

 

also

 

http://www.m-parts.c...y&path=36_48_78

[DomCr250]

They'd be hard to find in the UK, am I right in thinking the only difference is the length of the rods?

Just cut both rods down to whatever size is required.  On my last Marcos I extended them by a good few inches to move the gearlever back.

[Ethel]

 

They'd be hard to find in the UK, am I right in thinking the only difference is the length of the rods?

Just cut both rods down to whatever size is required.  On my last Marcos I extended them by a good few inches to move the gearlever back.

 

....or fab them from scratch. The steady looks short enough to make out of a bolt, which would avoid any welding and allow some adjustment. Just bend a bit deeper U for the gearbox end to clear a bolt head. It might need to be snug to eliminate twist, or use a coach bolt.

[alpder]

Sounds like I should add a rod-change mechanism to my shopping list of "bits to play with". Shortening and welding the rods would be easy enough and save a lot of other faff.

[Spider]

Of course, the stick too    - that is available, with added bling, if a little pricey

 

https://kentautodeve...t=4891031142437

 

also

 

http://www.m-parts.c...y&path=36_48_78

 

I actually modify the Mini Spares 'Quick Shifter' (short shifter) and find that easy enough to do, they need extra length in a Moke and I'd say it would be similar for a Van & Pick-up.

 

 

Sounds like I should add a rod-change mechanism to my shopping list of "bits to play with". Shortening and welding the rods would be easy enough and save a lot of other faff.

 

If you are keen, I'll make some measurements.