18 replies to this topic

[Mxrab]

I just want to confirm what the standard cam timing is on my 1275 a+. Currently getting 111.5 degree when worked out using dti and degree wheel. Am I right in thinking that is 105-106 for standard? So I need and offset key of 6 degrees?

[bpirie1000]

https://m.youtube.co...h?v=Yb6qu2le0ys

This may assist.

Lots of variables to take account of to get things right.

Really need a rolling road to play properly...

[Mxrab]

That’s for ignition timing. I’m currently at the cam timing stage.

https://m.youtube.co...h?v=Yb6qu2le0ys

This may assist.

Lots of variables to take account of to get things right.

Really need a rolling road to play properly...

[sonscar]

Can timing can be used to change the engine characteristics so depending on what you are seeking then a rolling road may be beneficial.Steve..

[Mxrab]

I’m looking for the base cam timing figure for a completely standard 1275A+. A rolling road would only be useful during ignition timing as far as I know.

Can timing can be used to change the engine characteristics so depending on what you are seeking then a rolling road may be beneficial.Steve..

[Mxrab]

Or do I even need to worry about setting the cam degree on a standard engine. It’s obviously left the factory just using the dot to dot on the cam and crank sprocket with no need for an offset wood ruff key. So am I worrying about nothing?

[sonscar]

I use dot to dot,leaving potential horsepower on the table.I still enjoy the driving.Your 1275 with non optimum cam timing will have much more power than my standard 998.You can read so much that you can loose sight of the destination.These are the thoughts of an easily satisfied older gent.Enjoy your quest.
Cam timing is used to shift the torque curve I believe.Steve..

[Spider]

There was a few different profiles fitted to the 1275 A+ over the years, with different timing figures. Do you know exactly which Cam you have ?

[Spider]

Or do I even need to worry about setting the cam degree on a standard engine. It’s obviously left the factory just using the dot to dot on the cam and crank sprocket with no need for an offset wood ruff key. So am I worrying about nothing?

 

I found it does pay noticeable dividends to get this right.

I also and separately found that blue printing the A Series Engine, especially the A+ Engines pays huge dividends. The factory 'tolerances' are not great.

[Mxrab]

Yeah that’s why I want this to be as exact as it can be. No point throwing horses away for no reason. How would I tell which cam I have?

Or do I even need to worry about setting the cam degree on a standard engine. It’s obviously left the factory just using the dot to dot on the cam and crank sprocket with no need for an offset wood ruff key. So am I worrying about nothing?

I found it does pay noticeable dividends to get this right.

I also and separately found that blue printing the A Series Engine, especially the A+ Engines pays huge dividends. The factory 'tolerances' are not great.

[Mxrab]

Losing sight of the destination is something that happens a lot with me. But I enjoy the journey and the learning. Perfection takes time as they say.

I use dot to dot,leaving potential horsepower on the table.I still enjoy the driving.Your 1275 with non optimum cam timing will have much more power than my standard 998.You can read so much that you can loose sight of the destination.These are the thoughts of an easily satisfied older gent.Enjoy your quest.
Cam timing is used to shift the torque curve I believe.Steve..

[D 'n A]

Have you driven the car with this cam?the stock cams have peak hp at around 5k and tev to 6. The cooper cams had peak hp around 5.700 I believe and rev to 6.5. But someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

I dont have the link on hand, but if you do a Google search on the Mini cams you can find lots of info on how to identify them.

[Spider]

How would I tell which cam I have?

 

If the Cam has not been ground, there's a few 'identifiers' you need to look for;-

 

Width of the lobes (3/8" or 1/2") - it should be 1/2", but check,

Oil Pump Drive - It should be a Slot Drive, but there's also Pin and Spyder Drive too,

If it has a Fuel Pump Lobe,

Any rings on the shaft of the Cam and where these are,
A small few Factory Cams had numbers stamped in them, on the shaft

 

It's also worth looking on the ends for stampings as sometimes when they are re-ground, the grinder will stamp an identifier on them.

 

If you have the gear to time the cam in, then you can use this same gear to measure the cam to see what it is. I do every lobe to check for wear and inconsistencies. It takes a while, but again,,,, that's blue printing,,,,,,

[bpirie1000]

Try this one then mini mania are a great source of information..

https://m.youtube.co...h?v=Uhv5_-JOfmM

[Mxrab]

Ok so I’ll have a measure to see what width the lobes are. It is a slot drive and there are definitely no stamp marks or identifiers anywhere. It looks like a stock untouched cam to my eye but check the picture. It also has a fuel pump lobe.

How would I tell which cam I have?

If the Cam has not been ground, there's a few 'identifiers' you need to look for;-

Width of the lobes (3/8" or 1/2") - it should be 1/2", but check,
Oil Pump Drive - It should be a Slot Drive, but there's also Pin and Spyder Drive too,
If it has a Fuel Pump Lobe,
Any rings on the shaft of the Cam and where these are,
A small few Factory Cams had numbers stamped in them, on the shaft

It's also worth looking on the ends for stampings as sometimes when they are re-ground, the grinder will stamp an identifier on them.

If you have the gear to time the cam in, then you can use this same gear to measure the cam to see what it is. I do every lobe to check for wear and inconsistencies. It takes a while, but again,,,, that's blue printing,,,,,,