
Head Gasket Problems
#1
Posted 17 April 2022 - 04:51 PM
So, autumn last year my 1275 started showing a little damp under the filler cap so over the winter I decided to look into it and change the head gasket. Upon first start up, as soon as the engine starts to get hot you can visibly see steam coming out the filler cap, and obviously custard being created on the underside.
I have now removed the head and had it pressure tested and skimmed, put it back together and exactly the same.
I’ve tried both a payen gasket and copper gasket. Each time when I’ve stripped it there appears to be no blow on the head gasket, just a visible water track from on the water passages at the rear to the cylinder.
I’m really out of ideas so some help would be appreciated
#2
Posted 17 April 2022 - 04:57 PM
Not sure what your problem is.
getting steam and mayo in the rocker cover is very common as temperatures get lower more so when the cars are hardly used.
are you just chasing a problem that is not actually there?
#3
Posted 17 April 2022 - 05:09 PM
As Nick has alluded to, if your car is only used for short journeys then you will get this. The needs a good blatt, fully up to temp and on a regular basis.
I suffered this issue with my Clubby as it had been sitting in a bodyshop for 10 years (owned by a little old lady) moved by starting it up, moving a few feet and thats it. There was rust carnage on the rocker gear and pushrods, rust on the valve springs and caps as well. A bloody mess and all caused by the mayo build up over the years. Now when i bought the car, sorted that out and used the car on a regular basis, no more mayo or condensation.
I had the head off by the way, no HG damage so that was all it was. A salutary lesson learnt. Oh and i originally went Copper HG, it did not seal but then went Payen and it was fine. All on the original 998 by the way.
#4
Posted 17 April 2022 - 05:36 PM
What Payen gasket?I’ve tried both a payen gasket and copper gasket.
I have never had head gasket problems until TAM1521 (BK450) were in short supply. Had to use AF470 green ones, have had 3 failures of those.
Edited by OzOAP, 17 April 2022 - 05:39 PM.
#5
Posted 17 April 2022 - 06:14 PM
You may or may not have a problem and the best way to determine if there is, a cylinder Leak Down Test should be carried out using a quality tester. If you suspect a leak the leak percentage figure will show this. If there is a noticeable figure then the possible leak source can be looked and listened for. Listen for any "hissing" from the oil filler cap, dipstick tube or PCV indicating blow by on the piston rings, or from the air filter or exhaust indicating blow by on the valves. If any bubbles appear at the radiator filler cap then suspect cylinder head/ head gasket problems
I would carry out this type of test before stripping the engine again.
#6
Posted 17 April 2022 - 06:24 PM
How have you got your crankcase breather connected up and what type of oil filler cap have you got ?
#7
Posted 17 April 2022 - 07:22 PM
It also depends what rocker cover you have fitted.
My current 998 with the older type Austin tin rocker cover doesnt give any mayo what so ever, even in winter.
IMHO build it back up and use the car, taking a compression or leak down test and monitoring that way.
Edited by cal844, 17 April 2022 - 07:23 PM.
#8
Posted 17 April 2022 - 07:53 PM
After changing the head gasket the first time, I tried taking it for a drive to see if that improved it, but it ran like a sack of ****.
Picture of the filler cap attached, this was after running stationary for about 20 mins this afternoon.
Also picture of the head gasket when stripped a few weeks ago, not blown but appears to show water running from one of the passages.
Attached Files
#9
Posted 17 April 2022 - 07:56 PM
How have you got your crankcase breather connected up and what type of oil filler cap have you got ?
Crank case breather is not connected. I did notice today some fumes (not sure if was steam or not) coming from it
#10
Posted 17 April 2022 - 07:58 PM
What Payen gasket?I’ve tried both a payen gasket and copper gasket.
I have never had head gasket problems until TAM1521 (BK450) were in short supply. Had to use AF470 green ones, have had 3 failures of those.
Had copper in it at first, but now Ive been trying TAM1521
#11
Posted 17 April 2022 - 08:04 PM
How have you got your crankcase breather connected up and what type of oil filler cap have you got ?
Crank case breather is not connected. I did notice today some fumes (not sure if was steam or not) coming from it
That is a problem as the water vapor is not extracted. That amount on the cap does not look abnormal for a set up with breathers not connected.
#12
Posted 17 April 2022 - 08:08 PM
That is a problem as the water vapor is not extracted. That amount on the cap does not look abnormal for a set up with breathers not connected.
How have you got your crankcase breather connected up and what type of oil filler cap have you got ?
Crank case breather is not connected. I did notice today some fumes (not sure if was steam or not) coming from it
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
This is all I’ve got on my crankcase at present. Was fine last year so I’m confused by the change? Happy to take advise on a better set up mind!
#13
Posted 17 April 2022 - 10:53 PM
That is a problem as the water vapor is not extracted. That amount on the cap does not look abnormal for a set up with breathers not connected.
How have you got your crankcase breather connected up and what type of oil filler cap have you got ?
Crank case breather is not connected. I did notice today some fumes (not sure if was steam or not) coming from it
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
This is all I’ve got on my crankcase at present. Was fine last year so I’m confused by the change? Happy to take advise on a better set up mind!
Piles of crap that people started to put on engines as racers did similar.
You really need the breathers connected to the carb. Then as the oil heats up and the water vapour evaporates it get pulled through the oil filler cap down through the engine out through the breathers and out of the engine.
with those filters the water vapour just rises in the engine and is not extracted.
#14
Posted 18 April 2022 - 01:02 AM
Crankcase ventilation is something that seems to be little understood and so easily over looked.
As the engine runs, in pulses, it will want to breath in and out. As you get some ring blow-by, this will want to pressurise the crankcase and should do so, only slightly - should.
The engine temperature also changes as it runs. When you shut it off after a run, it will tend to increase in temperature briefly, then cool off.
All these add together to cause the crankcase to breath.
Oil is hydroscopic, so it will also absorb some water (moisture) + in some conditions, you can has a small fog on the crankcase. The Blow-by and Moisture combines with the Oil and becomes slightly to considerably acidic.
Crankcase Ventilation deals with all this.
Most systems will draw in fresh air via a filter and some with a valve (to only let air in). This circulates through the crankcase and then is usually drawn off to the Manifold, often via a PCV Valve, which meters the flow and will also shut it off in a reverse flow, or as in the case with the post 71-ish Minis, a CCV System (Closed Crankcase Ventilation System). As well as circulating air through the Crankcase to remove the Moisture it also draws off fumes from the Blow-by so the engine doesn't smell. They also usually reduce the Crankcase Pressure to below that of Atmospheric, which has a tendency to reduce oil leaks.
The CCV System the Factory fitted to these cars, when looked at in very close detail is one thing I feel the factory got totally spot on. For just about any street car, except maybe in boosted applications, in my opinion, you won;t get a better set up.
#15
Posted 18 April 2022 - 07:08 AM
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