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Contemplating A Turbo Build


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#16 sonscar

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Posted 07 July 2022 - 03:11 PM

I stand educated,the float is pressurised so the fuel is harder to get in?or something like that?Steve..

#17 Turbo Phil

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Posted 07 July 2022 - 05:23 PM

As the float chamber is pressurised by boost, the fuel pressure supplying the float chamber needs to be higher than boost to allow it to be filled with fresh fuel.

Phil.

#18 Hpal

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Posted 23 August 2022 - 01:11 PM

OK an update, just put money down on a DAM5626 a+ box and transfer housing and drop gears with a 3.1 diff which I'll disassemble to fit the cross pin diff centre. 

I have a new CAM 6232 crankshaft waiting for the job.  Have a megajolt setup on it's way for when the engine goes in.

 

I now need to decide what to do with the clutch setup, I can go any way I like I guess but the RTS setup costs a lot of $. With regard to the MED clutches/flywheels what are peoples experiences with the stage 3 paddle clutch and grey spring? MED have recommended it but sounds a like it would be a bugger to drive and a heavy clutch, not to mention the extra pushing on the crankshaft.  Could I go the stage 2 with organic competition clutch plate and orange diaphragm? They don't say on the website what torque figure they'll be good for. Or should I piece together parts from minispares, lightened flywheel, clutch cover, clutch plate?



#19 mini13

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Posted 23 August 2022 - 02:04 PM

I would stay away from paddle clutches, they are more like an on off switch, I would stay away from non verto too, ive found the verto's generally much nicer to drive .

 

up to around 140hp you can probably get away with the uprated turbo verto cover and a rally plate



#20 Hpal

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Posted 23 August 2022 - 03:31 PM

Even though I've got an a+ box, I don't have any verto parts to convert. And I have a starter off a holden Gemini which is I think a 9 tooth to suit pre verto and not wanting to change the starter for a different one to suit the verto flywheel. What else would I have to get to change to verto eg slave, brackets, arm, plunger, throwout bearing? All stuff I don't have. I don't think I want a paddle clutch in a road car. MED have said that the pre verto ST2 kit with organic clutch plate and orange spring is good for 110ftlb, so I may be best to go stage 2 but with grey spring and avoid the paddle clutch. but this will be heavy and hard on thrusts


Edited by Hpal, 23 August 2022 - 03:53 PM.


#21 Steve220

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Posted 24 August 2022 - 08:47 AM

OK an update, just put money down on a DAM5626 a+ box and transfer housing and drop gears with a 3.1 diff which I'll disassemble to fit the cross pin diff centre. 

I have a new CAM 6232 crankshaft waiting for the job.  Have a megajolt setup on it's way for when the engine goes in.

 

I now need to decide what to do with the clutch setup, I can go any way I like I guess but the RTS setup costs a lot of $. With regard to the MED clutches/flywheels what are peoples experiences with the stage 3 paddle clutch and grey spring? MED have recommended it but sounds a like it would be a bugger to drive and a heavy clutch, not to mention the extra pushing on the crankshaft.  Could I go the stage 2 with organic competition clutch plate and orange diaphragm? They don't say on the website what torque figure they'll be good for. Or should I piece together parts from minispares, lightened flywheel, clutch cover, clutch plate?

Considering it's the one thing on the set up that is likely to make or break the way it drives, i'd get an RTS made.



#22 Steve220

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Posted 24 August 2022 - 08:48 AM

I would stay away from paddle clutches, they are more like an on off switch, I would stay away from non verto too, ive found the verto's generally much nicer to drive .

 

up to around 140hp you can probably get away with the uprated turbo verto cover and a rally plate

I had the turbo verto and rally plate when i first built the car. I ran 7 psi and it slipped terribly.



#23 mini13

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Posted 24 August 2022 - 11:01 AM

admittedly the turbo cover plates  (actually I think all the production ones) can be fairly variable. Ive heard of them holding at 140-150hp, or slipping about 90-100. Ive heard of people "selecting them by standing on them to see which one seems stiffest

 

another point, IIRC the lugs on the  aftermarket backplates are shorter which would up the clamping pressure a fair bit



#24 sonscar

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Posted 24 August 2022 - 01:36 PM

You are already into it for thousands so why skimp on such a vital part.Cry a bit and buy the proper kit,much cheaper than buying it after the first one fails.I say this as an invererate cheapskate.Steve..



#25 Hpal

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Posted 25 August 2022 - 10:13 PM

No plan on skimping, just asking advice. This is my first build of such an engine and all we got here was pre verto stuff so I need to rely on you guys for the best current advice. I think I'll make up an RTS setup, just need some bits. So if anyone has a couple of matching clutch spring I could use that they'd let go for the right price, let me know. 






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