17 replies to this topic

[chuee]

does any good man, or lady, know the specs of those bots for the air vent spigot on the bulkhead - the ones that tend to seize?

 

Cheers, John

[Tupers]

They are Number 10 UNF.

[mini-mad-mark]

Also known as 10-32 (32 threads per inch)

[mini13]

a bit of a bodge.... but its pretty close to M5... Ive been known to run an M5 tap though and use a stainless button head in there for asthetics

[weef]

I think these might be 3/16 UNF.

[sonscar]

Fit whatever size you like that fits if renewing them,you are unlikely to lose any concourse points for doing it.I used M4 nuts and bolts because I had loads of them.Steve..

[chuee]

Fit whatever size you like that fits if renewing them,you are unlikely to lose any concourse points for doing it.I used M4 nuts and bolts because I had loads of them.Steve..

Thanks to all for kind replies.

 

As the proud owner-driver, and sole maintainer of my mini, I don't go for concourse points and suit myself. It serves reliably, has no substantial rust.

So I think some tiny chestnut  pegs could be good - no rust, easily removed. I'd soak them in linseed oil too - good for a  hundred years I reckon. 

Edited by chuee, 15 August 2022 - 01:47 PM.

[Shooter63]

I am very ashamed to say I pop riveted the sod back on, working on the idea that if it ever had to come off again sheared bolts won't come into the equation, Im off to sit in the naughty corner.

Shooter

[chuee]

I am very ashamed to say I pop riveted the sod back on,...
Shooter

Yeah, well as I contemplated the mounts before me, with six out of eight broken off in captive nuts, whispers came to mind suggesting pop rivets, and those whispers probably came from a post i read a few years back.

The suggestion makes some sense, given the problem of small bolts seizing in captive nuts, or just after patch repairs to an inner wing, when rain has run through an unsealed windscreen. And then also its so dammned easy to drill out in the future, if needs be.

 

But I allow myself time to appreciate every decision made by Austin Rover. So I thought I'd drill em out and replace the bolts.

However I'm patching the inner wing and will lose about two captive nuts, anyway. Was gong to weld some more on, hence why I raised the topic. Rivets might be the right decision.

 

I cant yet see what those pop rivets might look like.. the ugly side in the bulk head... all such little things lead to a mess of trapped dirt,  hard to just wipe clean like a kitchen worktop with nothing much on it in the brochures; they  look ugly too, like insulated pink crimp connectors (or any colour actually).. But possible very functional unlike electrical crimps that  work loose... if the head sits nicely on the flange of the spigot.  Or do you put tem on the other way round?

 

I guess a nice set of brass rivets, and hand peened would do the business nicely, and look the part for those concourse judges that swoop down from Oxford, and gaze over every mini in the inner cities and rural villages.

 

I have some of those handy. I'd need an assistant... Oh But then I can just use  tapered midget wooden pegs.

 

or sticky bitumen tape, which is waterproof, though hard to get off some of it is. I have a caravan door that has to be cut out with a chisel because I cant even kick it open,without destroying the door frame.

 

Sorry to bore you. Someone told me its the little things that count. They don't in some  worlds of intended great social change  of course, where its more like offering the most useful and celebrated choice of sex-change op for my primary school children that matters (knowing full well that I their father will forbid it, naturally speaking as a spoil sport),  but instead of worry  in my idle hours

by imagining blowing holes in my patch welding, I can enjoy thinking about this trivia, and then  just get down to the welding on the job.

cheers, John

Edited by chuee, 15 August 2022 - 07:49 PM.

[sonikk4]

Me being me did something different for those especially after replacing most of the metal fro fresh.

 

I made a stainless steel ring with four sealed captive anchor nuts riveted on then the whole thing boded in place.

 

 

Bonded in place

[mini13]

Oh!!! I thought you were talking about the vents up to the screen!

[sonikk4]

Oh!!! I thought you were talking about the vents up to the screen!

 

Well thats how i interpreted it???? If thats not the case OOOps!!!

[chuee]

 

Oh!!! I thought you were talking about the vents up to the screen!

 

Well thats how i interpreted it???? If thats not the case OOOps!!!

 

 

Yes air vent spigots on the bulkhead with captive nuts is what I was talking about; NOT  the heater-windscreen vents.

 

I have no need to forgive you,    because although that  specification was given in the opening post, appreciating that readers are to be considered, I failed in my diligent efforts to be even more precise than necessary  by not specifying FRESH air. 

 

Instead Please forgive me, and also 'hate' this post! 

[chuee]

Me being me did something different for those especially after replacing most of the metal fro fresh.

 

I made a stainless steel ring with four sealed captive anchor nuts riveted on then the whole thing bonded in place.

 

A great job. 

Am I right in assuming that the large hole for the spigot is the same as original?

Also, I like you rivets, a proper job and essential to the design -  form being function, where function is top notch. 

 

I suspect those captive anchor nuts are superior to rivnuts. And I like the way its all on one removable plate rather than the captive nuts direct onto the body. Perfect for any necessary future front end work,  even if its in thirty years time. 

Did you do that because the pate is thicker than the bulkhead, so as to take the rivets? Or simply to make it a removable one piece plate, as being better by design?

 

I must steal the idea.    Maybe I could  weld the captive nuts onto the plate, (Answer: in that case simply use ordinary nuts , gosh I'm so stupid at times).

Very glad I raised this important  trivial issue. Messrs Austin & Co.,  would be delighted with the outcome, I know.

Edited by chuee, 16 August 2022 - 10:09 PM.

[sonikk4]

Me being me did something different for those especially after replacing most of the metal fro fresh.
 
I made a stainless steel ring with four sealed captive anchor nuts riveted on then the whole thing bonded in place.

 
A great job. 
Am I right in assuming that the large hole for the spigot is the same as original?
Also, I like you rivets, a proper job and essential to the design -  form being function, where function is top notch. 
 
I suspect those captive anchor nuts are superior to rivnuts. And I like the way its all on one removable plate rather than the captive nuts direct onto the body. Perfect for any necessary future front end work,  even if its in thirty years time. 
Did you do that because the pate is thicker than the bulkhead, so as to take the rivets? Or simply to make it a removable one piece plate, as being better by design?
 
I must steal the idea.    Maybe I could  weld the captive nuts onto the plate, (Answer: in that case simply use ordinary nuts , gosh I'm so stupid at times).
Very glad I raised this important  trivial issue. Messrs Austin & Co.,  would be delighted with the outcome, I know.

The stainless steel sheet was some leftovers I had floating around. The countersinking did not knife edge the thickness of the stainless. The sealed anchor nuts were for a Aircraft fuel tank access panel, the Monel rivets are again something we use for stainless steel to prevent galvanic corrosion / dissimilar metal corrosion.

And yes ultimately I can remove the ring at a later date is required. It is sealed on but a decent thin scraper will easily remove it if require. I would be very hacked off if anything there started corroding again. A lot of prep work went into that area.

As for the anchor nuts being more superior to rivnuts?? A properly installed rivnut should be as good but because I have used a sealed anchor nut plus when I fit the bolts a little bit of lube will be used, there should be no chance of any muck getting in there.

The internal diameter aperture is the same as the original