17 replies to this topic

[chuee]

 

 

Me being me did something different for those especially after replacing most of the metal fro fresh.
 
I made a stainless steel ring with four sealed captive anchor nuts riveted on then the whole thing bonded in place.

 
A great job. 
Am I right in assuming that the large hole for the spigot is the same as original?
Also, I like you rivets, a proper job and essential to the design -  form being function, where function is top notch. 
 
I suspect those captive anchor nuts are superior to rivnuts. And I like the way its all on one removable plate rather than the captive nuts direct onto the body. Perfect for any necessary future front end work,  even if its in thirty years time. 
Did you do that because the pate is thicker than the bulkhead, so as to take the rivets? Or simply to make it a removable one piece plate, as being better by design?
 
I must steal the idea.    Maybe I could  weld the captive nuts onto the plate, (Answer: in that case simply use ordinary nuts , gosh I'm so stupid at times).
Very glad I raised this important  trivial issue. Messrs Austin & Co.,  would be delighted with the outcome, I know.

 It is sealed on but a decent thin scraper will easily remove it if require. I would be very hacked off if anything there started corroding again. A lot of prep work went into that area.

 

Thanks for diligent replies - every question answered. Appreciated.  Yes, that prep work, and then what you do after..... and  so its good you brought up the question of sealing.

I do appreciate seam sealant in in the context of spot welded seams, but otherwise I think of all possible methods, and have to say I am a fan of wet paint, where possible.

Otherwise I am considering using Threebond on places lie you mention, and on bulkhead plates.  What do you think?

[sonikk4]

Having never used Threebond products, i cannot comment on how good they are.

 

My car is smoothered in Aviation sealant which has a massive temperature range and when put onto a properly prepared surface is an absolute swine to remove. Also it has anticorrosion properties built in hence why i'm using it.

 

To buy it on the open market is expensive and everything i have used on Paddy is shelf life expired but still usable on a car.

 

My philosophy with welded joints is i always use Zinc rich weld through primer. But i have also painted the mating flanges before hand, ie primer and topcoat and then when plug welding i scrape clean those areas. And with the car on a spit once all welding is completed in that area i try and force additional topcoat into those welded areas.

 

Spot welding would need Zinc rich weld through primer only, but that can be hit and miss.

[chuee]

That Aviation sealant sounds good. Threebond is excellent and sticky gasket former. Not too difficult to remove.  Makes an excellent seal. I say that, although I also use and recommend paper plus grease for gaskets in the right place. Yes  things are expensive now. Threebond is about £15 for a very large tube and has multiple applications, so happy with that.

 

But the expense of things is one good reason to understand what you're trying to achieve, and hence why I recommend wet paint as a sealant:

Whatever sealants are used, paint is required for metal to seal it anyway. Paint is a sealant! And you're sealing to the sealant (paint)! but the paint is dry, and is only a sealant between fixings if applied wet. LIke runny stuff.

The right paint - a decent engine enamel, the same as you would use over the component, makes an excellent, lasting seal for things like clutch master mount - a rust-prone area. Have the mounting lug painted with two coats and and surface dry, then apply more to the base of the master cylinder mounting  before affixing. Of course, this make timing for fitting critical, its not instant and yet cannot be left for more than a day to finish off.