30 replies to this topic

[roblightbody]

Hi,

 

I bought my Mini in 2014 from Somerford, where it had been fully rebuilt into its original shell - I have some photos of what they did, which was very extensive.  It was comprehensively rust-proofed way, way beyond what the factory did and I took such precautions as having front wheel arch liners fitted at that time.  Since then its lived here in Glasgow, only done about 15k miles or so - almost entirely in the summer months, and been garaged in winter.  I thought, it was completely rot-free... 

 

Then a couple of years ago a Mini specialist told me it needed welding at the drivers floorpan where the subframe mount joins the shell... this was a complete surprise, but I got him to do it and hoped that would be the end of it, but now a new problem has opened up - literally - next to his repair.  Clydesdale Classics here in Glasgow are quoting an absolutely eyewatering amount to repair it that moves towards the total value of the car.   I've no doubt they'd do a good job, but I'm really baulking at the cost.  The Mini specialist says it will be a nightmare, shouldn't have happened, and doesn't seem interested in doing it all, and is refusing to quote for the work.  its exactly the sort of thing I'd expected to avoid by buying a restored car, then carefully looking after it...

 

Car has a clean MOT but I'm not driving it for fear of making it worse, except potentially to a garage to look at it or fix it.

 

I've attached photos.  What would you do!  Hopefully they're clear enough.  The "flap" thats hanging down is solid if you poke it.  There is a small but scary looking crack creeping up where the floor meets the inner wheelarch.

Attached Files

•  PXL_20230415_152958128.jpg   79.7K   13 downloads
•  PXL_20230415_153011996 (1).jpg   38.73K   10 downloads
•  PXL_20230415_153033420.jpg   39.56K   11 downloads
•  PXL_20230415_153313603 (1).jpg   85.06K   16 downloads
•  PXL_20230415_145813282 no reg.jpg   80.7K   8 downloads

[sonscar]

Not a very taxing job,fully accessible from inside,no danger to the body paintwork.Days job?£300 should cover it I would have thought,but then I am no pro.If you can weld yourself it would be an easy almost free job.Steve..

[stuart bowes]

Trying to understand what it is about it that they think is nightmarish

Is it just that they feel it would be best to remove engine/frame and rack and they can't be bothered

Or they think the geometry of the subframe fixings might be difficult to maintain

At the most simple level surely you could clean back to bare metal on the inside and weld in a strengthening plate around the area. At least that would be safe to drive Then a clean up and hammer back to shape / bit of rust surgery on the outside and zip it back together

Admittedly cutting out a section and replacing it with correct authentic panels or fabricated pieces would be more time consuming being on that awkward edge between bulkhead and floor

Granted though from the pics it's hard to see how far back the rust really goes, presumably that's job number 1 start peeling back the paint and see where it goes

Edited by stuart bowes, 29 April 2023 - 04:18 PM.

[KTS]

..what does it look like on the inside ?

[floormanager]

Had mine done which looked just like that by Ben at Mill Road garage.  Had a load of other work done at the same time so can't give you a price but the whole bill was not unexpected.  I know when Ben cleaned it up it was more than originally thought but fixing it was not a problem.

 

You can see the repair here

https://www.theminif...ervices/page-35

 

Edited by floormanager, 29 April 2023 - 06:34 PM.

[greenwheels]

Looks to me like someone jacked it up under the floor, bending it a bit that broke the excessive amount of 'protective paint etc.' on the floor panel and water has got in between the 'protective paint etc' that was applied on an ill prepared surface by the restorer.

[mab01uk]

I'm surprised the car has a clean MOT...unless the rusty crack has appeared some months after the last test, or been badly trolley jacked up by tyre fitters/garage , although I believe MOT inspectors are not allowed to prod suspect areas too hard?

 

It looks to me like the welded repair plating carried out by the Mini specialist a couple of years ago, to the "drivers floorpan where the subframe mount joins the shell" should have been carried out to a wider area and has transferred the loads from the reinforced subframe mount to the failing floorpan/inner wheel arch joint.....this joint/flange was probably already weakened and rusting within the welded flange but hidden by a thick layer of paint and factory seam sealer. Quite a common rust trap on Minis once water/moisture gets into the overlapped joint.

 

As said in earlier posts it should not be too difficult to repair for someone who can weld and knows a Minis weak spots for a reasonable labour price, make sure any welding is rust proofed and always check the front carpets/foam underlay and wheel arch carpet in that area is bone dry after driving in rain or washing the car.....Minis often leak into the front floorpan from windscreen, bulkhead or door seals!

Edited by mab01uk, 29 April 2023 - 07:21 PM.

[bpirie1000]

Until you are in there with cleaning for fresh metal you may not get a true perspective of what is required..

Good luck and as usual... if i can assist....

[roblightbody]

Until you are in there with cleaning for fresh metal you may not get a true perspective of what is required..

Good luck and as usual... if i can assist....

Do you know somewhere that can do it? I don't have the time, facilities or ability to get into this... and the lack of an affordable garage that can help me, is making me question if I'm able to run a classic car at all.

[Lowestoftmodder]

Looks to me that the section shown is a peeled back section of metal with “tackwelds” along the trailing edge. If this was plug welded correctly then this wouldn’t have moved and peeled up. This water wouldn’t have hit into the seam.
I often plug and then fully weld out the edge. Not original but I’ve not had one fail either.. if you were close I could take care of this for you without eye watering costs

[roblightbody]

Looks to me that the section shown is a peeled back section of metal with “tackwelds” along the trailing edge. If this was plug welded correctly then this wouldn’t have moved and peeled up. This water wouldn’t have hit into the seam.
I often plug and then fully weld out the edge. Not original but I’ve not had one fail either.. if you were close I could take care of this for you without eye watering costs

 

Thanks for that, makes sense.

[weef]

I think there are a couple of factors that have to be taken into account here, first it is very difficult to tell the extent of the corrosion from the pictures and secondly the customers expectations/specifications for the repair, it may be that the repairer feels the toe board and front floor section need to be cut out to meet the customer requests, hence the high costs. The established repairers will know what they are looking at regarding the repair and there is a big difference between "patching" and repairing. I have no doubt the home repairers with a welder can make a satisfactory job in this instance but the profession workshops have to offer a gaurantee for their work and as such approach jobs in a different manner.

Please do not read into this post that I condone the high costs that some repair shops charge but both sides have to be seen.

[stuart milliken]

Hi Rob my name is stuart milliken currently in east kilbride . i have used Clydesdale classics and have had repairs on my Cooper s 1968 where it was very successful , however the best person to speak to is simon at Mini works in Longniddry closer to Home .

 

I am arranging this Friday  for my car to go through to him from East Kilbride and get a full repair / replenishment on my Carbs . 

 

Simon only deals in minis and has been restoring for years my mini also needs a rear subframe and he is putting it up on ramps to have a further look .

 

Highly recommended 

[roblightbody]

Thanks very much Stuart.  I'm aware of mini works and friends have also recommended him... But still amazed at the lack of classic car/mini places in the West!  

[roblightbody]

I think there are a couple of factors that have to be taken into account here, first it is very difficult to tell the extent of the corrosion from the pictures and secondly the customers expectations/specifications for the repair, it may be that the repairer feels the toe board and front floor section need to be cut out to meet the customer requests, hence the high costs. The established repairers will know what they are looking at regarding the repair and there is a big difference between "patching" and repairing. I have no doubt the home repairers with a welder can make a satisfactory job in this instance but the profession workshops have to offer a gaurantee for their work and as such approach jobs in a different manner.

Please do not read into this post that I condone the high costs that some repair shops charge but both sides have to be seen.

 

Very good post.

 

If it's the case, as I believe, that there's no rot on the car at all apart from this bit, it seems to me like it needs to be done properly, or the whole car is "spoiled".  The problem with that is it's going to cost a fortune. Quite the dilemma, especially as the value of my specific car isn't huge, unlike a 1968 Cooper S mentioned above!