18 replies to this topic

[ac427]

When it comes to actually attaching the engine crane to the engine.

Are they any adapters or load spreading brackets available?

I saw Paul at HRE was going to sell a bracket that needed welding but was sympathetically angled for engine removal.

Did anyone get one?

Where do you actually attach to on the engine?

Edited by ac427, 02 May 2023 - 10:13 AM.

[DeadSquare]

An "L" shaped bracket, bolted to the centre front head stud, is as good a place to lift as any.

 

The engine doesn't just lift straight out, the diff needs easing past the subframe, even with fancy adjustable chain slings.

 

Remember to remove the body to engine, earth cable.

 

Don't rush things, make sure that the engine isn't catching on anything, and you'll be OK.

[sonscar]

I use a U shaped bracket which bolts to both of the rocker cover studs.Steve..

[imack]

I use original BMC lifting eyes.

Attached Files

•  Screenshot_20230502_123026_Gallery.jpg   23.78K   10 downloads

[ac427]

I use a U shaped bracket which bolts to both of the rocker cover studs.Steve..

 

Where did you get it?

 

I use original BMC lifting eyes.

They look good too. Are they available from MiniSpares or similar?

[stuart bowes]

I'm not saying this is the correct method but not having anything else to hand I used 3 strong ratchet straps.

 

one at each end, all the way round, under and back up, both attached at the top to the crane arm

 

and one around the block horizontally just under the head nice and tight just to make sure the others didn't move

 

it worked fine but I was careful and slow checking it all the way for any signs of movement 

 

if it was a bigger engine I probably would have been more wary

 

since then we bought anchors that bolt to the head as per imack post, that'll be for when we put it back in, I have to be honest though I did wonder at the time whether it made sense to put strain on those head studs?  but if thats the usual method I'm sure it's fine

Edited by stuart bowes, 02 May 2023 - 12:43 PM.

[Ethel]

Rope sling, hooked round the transfer case & the water pump.

[KTS]

rope sling as above, but under the gear box casing instead of the water pump.

 

slinging from the bottom allows you to tip the engine as it comes up/down

[ac427]

Rope sling, hooked round the transfer case & the water pump.

 

rope sling as above, but under the gear box casing instead of the water pump.

 

slinging from the bottom allows you to tip the engine as it comes up/down

 

Thank you Both.

 

Are these just any old rope slings, something available from a builders merchants or something you made up at the time?

Edited by ac427, 02 May 2023 - 01:06 PM.

[DeadSquare]

I'm not saying this is the correct method but not having anything else to hand I used 3 strong ratchet straps.

 

one at each end, all the way round, under and back up, both attached at the top to the crane arm

 

and one around the block horizontally just under the head nice and tight just to make sure the others didn't move

 

it worked fine but I was careful and slow checking it all the way for any signs of movement 

 

if it was a bigger engine I probably would have been more wary

 

 

 

 

 

 

since then we bought anchors that bolt to the head as per imack post, that'll be for when we put it back in, I have to be honest though I did wonder at the time whether it made sense to put strain on those head studs?  but if that is the usual method I'm sure it's fine

A couple of months ago, (but now can't find), I came across a 1950s launch brochure of the Austin A 30.

 

The 'under bonnet'  photo showed that the car came with two lifting eyes attached to the engine by the rocker cover bolts,  -----  so I'm sure that a head stud will be just fine.

[weef]

Most of the "in line"  A and B series units came with the lifting lugs, the L shaped type, fitted to the rocker cover studs and these were used to remove the engine, but remember it was only the engine, no gearbox attached.

As a consequence we all seemed to inherit a set of said lifting lugs and continued to successfully use these fitted to the front cylinder head studs to remove the "east west" engine and gearbox, fitting to the front head studs giving enough of an angle to clear the gearbox casing when removing the unit.

I use this method with a slight tweek when refitting, lowering the engine with the unit hanging on the front head studs about 3/4 ways then fitting, if you are using one, the multibranch exhaust and inlet manifolds. I next lower the unit till it rests on the subframe and then transfer the lifting lugs to the rocker cover studs, this allows the unit to hang more squarely and I find makes fitting the engine mounting bolts much easier.

[KTS]

 

Rope sling, hooked round the transfer case & the water pump.

 

rope sling as above, but under the gear box casing instead of the water pump.

 

slinging from the bottom allows you to tip the engine as it comes up/down

 

Thank you Both.

 

Are these just any old rope slings, something available from a builders merchants or something you made up at the time?

 

 

just a couple of bits of rope with a figure of eight knot at each end - something with a breaking strain of 100Kg or more should be fine.  If it's narrow enough it'll fit into the vanes of the gearbox so won't slip when weight is on it

 

took a bit of trial and error to get the lengths just right 

[imack]

I use a U shaped bracket which bolts to both of the rocker cover studs.Steve..

Where did you get it?

I use original BMC lifting eyes.

They look good too. Are they available from MiniSpares or similar?

Attached Files

•  Screenshot_20230502_210157_Samsung Internet.jpg   38.64K   2 downloads

[Cooperman]

That's what I use. Bolt to the front head studs and the angle is about right for gearbox/diff casing clearance.

[Steam]

A different take.

https://www.theminif...et-design-help/

Works well.

Edited by Steam, 03 May 2023 - 02:52 AM.