5 replies to this topic

[chuee]

Hello, I would value your input and experience,  when fitting  the standard windscreen rubber seal (pre-mpi_ windscreen rubber);

 

Q.  Would you advise using a little sealant ( like Arbomast, a black non hardening mastic)  or not - I.E. should a brand new seal be fitted without sealant as originally intended, preferably?

 

 

I don't like water seeping into the channels where the seal mates with the glass, inviting rust, and  even seeping beyond into the cabin.

 

Also, where the seal mates with the window frame, possible dampness ma be allowed  in to invite rust, although I don't see it as  problematic as the  side of the seal where the glass slots in.

 

I know  tacky paint may be used effectively too, but then that means dried paint adhering to the rubber when later removing , for whatever reason. Also, paint

may not be as effective.

 

Cheers, John

[cal844]

My fitter uses Arbormast and a new seal and fillet strip. Ideally you want to apply the sealant to screen and body sides of the seal

[chuee]

My fitter uses Arbormast and a new seal and fillet strip. Ideally you want to apply the sealant to screen and body sides of the seal

Cheers. Good to know. I take it you are happy with the result after a period of time!  

[cal844]

Yeah, no leaks after 4 years. I did have to use a plastic implement to remove oozed sealant from the body of the car and the window

[weef]

In the early days we never used to use any sealer, just a new rubber seal and sealing strip, lots of soap, a good strong piece of cord and a mate to lend a hand and on you went.

But nowadays the rubber components that are available appear to be inferior quality, generally all rubber components not just glazing seals, so maybe a good idea to use one of the many sealants available today if you want longevity, but it makes the fitting harder and messy and definately a case of "less is better" as cleaning off excess sealant is tedious.

[chuee]

In the early days we never used to use any sealer, just a new rubber seal and sealing strip, lots of soap, a good strong piece of cord and a mate to lend a hand and on you went.

But nowadays the rubber components that are available appear to be inferior quality, generally all rubber components not just glazing seals, so maybe a good idea to use one of the many sealants available today if you want longevity, but it makes the fitting harder and messy and definately a case of "less is better" as cleaning off excess sealant is tedious.

The method you  speak of is what i heard about.  What you add about quality of rubber is interesting. Minispares state "There is a later wider rubber which was fitted to cars from 1992-2000 to help stop leaks but was more prone to holding water causing rust unless a quality sealant is used,the part number is CCB10011MS."

 

Also, for the later  1992 - 2000 seal , minispares offer this assurance " Our rubbers are best quality from UK supplier tried and tested over 20 years so beware of all the cheap rubbers available."

 

That's good. But  suspect you are still correct about inferior rubber. Perhaps its the fault of  spotty scientists working on it for their masters,adding stuff based on theory alone, and to suit the manufacturer reduce cost.

 

Yeah the arbomast can be messy, I found on another earlier trial. I used spirit straight away and that is messy; but the trick I found,m  is to let it dry off a bit half hour in good drying weather, perhaps.  then scrape it off as Cal84 suggests. Then I  rub over with some coarse dry  cotton which picks up any remainder.

A final wipe with cloth dampened slightly with meths, or alcohol finishes the job without mess.