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Clutch Engagement Stalls Engine


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#16 nicklouse

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Posted 04 June 2023 - 09:12 PM

Crazy About Mini's - For the arm stop, that is the procedure I have done, so that should be set correctly. For the Throw Out Nuts, that is also what I have done, although the plunger ran out of threat when I was winding the nuts in while the pedal was pressed, it did end up flush to the casing and I could turn it a bit more after the pedal was released, but not a full flat.

Something is not right there. Never ever known one run out of threads. You can normally see the treads before it is depressed.

 

sounds like everything is worn and you are also not getting 1/2” of travel at the slave.

 

try re bleeding the system.



#17 imack

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Posted 04 June 2023 - 09:51 PM

What sort of angle does your release arm sit at when the clutch is engaged and everythingcorrectlyadjusted?
When everything's in tip top condition without any worn out components the release arm should lie relatively parallel with the wok cover.

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Edited by imack, 04 June 2023 - 09:52 PM.


#18 Colakurt

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Posted 05 June 2023 - 09:39 AM

Nicklouse - The clutch plate is only one season old, same goes for the orange diaphragm. The pressure plate and flywheel is also in good condition. But I do have a suspetion that the flywheel may not sit right on the crank, moving the entire assembly further towards the clutch housing.

 

I am currently working on removing the clutch pedal mechanism to check for mechanical wear on that end. The pin is warn down by 0,5mm and I imagine to see something similar on the clutch pedal eye.

 

I was reading  this article on Mini Mania https://www.minimani...FAQ__non_Verto_ and it seems like the orange diaphragm is not able to move the plate as much as the blue, before putting excessive force on the crank.

 

imack - The arm looks to be more or less parallel with the housing. The arm, plunger, release bearing, slave cylinder is all new. 



#19 nicklouse

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Posted 05 June 2023 - 09:53 AM

As the orange and grey are heavier springs it is natural that they will put more force on the thrust washers. Hence the more important need to set the stop nuts correctly.

if the the flywheel is to far on you can get other issues with the primary gear sticking.

 

age of the parts has little to do with anything. 
 

what has actually be changed over the off season that may have lead to this new problem?



#20 Colakurt

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Posted 08 June 2023 - 03:37 PM

I did change a lot of things and I think the reason it worked in the last season could be the play in the warn components I changed. The clutch is moving a lot more after I changed the arm and plunger which is putting more force on the entire system.
I also changed the thrust bearings and I really hope they are not the reason for this behavior as the endfloat is within spec. I have read people noting they could be the reason for the lower rpm but in most cases it seems like people suspect them of being missing, mounted the wrong way or warn down, which is not the case in my build.

#21 Colakurt

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Posted 08 June 2023 - 09:18 PM

Imack - I did some further investigation today. It seems like my problem is caused by slack or play in the plunger/spring. I have to tighten the return bolt(the small one) way beyond what the manual says to remove slack in the pedal. Everything in the pedal and hydraulics assembly is new. The engine is diving in RPM when the pedal is pressed because it is not fully releasing the clutch while in gear.

I found that I have to press the pedal half way down before i feel real resistance in the pedal, after the system bleeding and no air left in the hydraulics, if I adjust the return bolt as described in the manual. If I then tighten the bolt against the arm, until the slack in the pedal is almost removed, then I feel resistance after about 10mm pedal travel, and the car is easy to get into gear, without dropping in RPM, and the car no longer starts to move as soon as I lift my foot 1mm from the floor.

 

To me it seems like something have to be pre biased or pre loaded in the system before the hydraulics actually start to move the pressure plate, releasing the clutch when the pedal is pressed.



#22 nicklouse

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Posted 08 June 2023 - 11:07 PM

Still sounds like you have not set the stop bolt clearance correctly. So you are having to move the arm more than is needed. Or you still have air in the system.



#23 imack

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Posted 09 June 2023 - 05:43 AM

As above, somethings not right, you either have air or wear in the system somewhere. Adjusting it like you have done will mean the release bearing is in constant contact withe the thrust plate on the diaphragm, the bearing will quickly wear out.
I can't see how adjusting the clutch as you have done, is stopping the engine revs dropping when the clutch pedal is depressed.




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