16 replies to this topic

[minicooperr]

I need to replace some sections of wire for the rear loom where they have cuts. 

 

I have found the colours I need on a website here but I am unsure if it is suitable for this application as I am a wiring novice 

 

https://www.autospar...VdKmA1QGNjiPZjQ

 

 

I just want it to be safe and correct 

 

Cheers

[KTS]

the 2mm² cable you've linked is likely to be overkill for most circuits on the rear loom

 

which colour wires do you need to repair/replace ?

[minicooperr]

Sorry yeah should have said it is for the Green/red Red/green and Purple/orange 

[DeadSquare]

I need to replace some sections of wire for the rear loom where they have cuts. 

 

I have found the colours I need on a website here but I am unsure if it is suitable for this application as I am a wiring novice 

 

https://www.autospar...VdKmA1QGNjiPZjQ

 

 

I just want it to be safe and correct 

 

Cheers

 

"17 Amp cable" will be a 'belt & braces' job.

 

If you check the power consumption of things in the back end of a Mini, there isn't anything that takes a lot of power  (an indicator bulb takes 1.75 amps)  ie: 7 amps if you had a trailer and used the hazard warning.

[minicooperr]

 

I need to replace some sections of wire for the rear loom where they have cuts. 

 

I have found the colours I need on a website here but I am unsure if it is suitable for this application as I am a wiring novice 

 

https://www.autospar...VdKmA1QGNjiPZjQ

 

 

I just want it to be safe and correct 

 

Cheers

 

"17 Amp cable" will be a 'belt & braces' job.

 

If you check the power consumption of things in the back end of a Mini, there isn't anything that takes a lot of power  (an indicator bulb takes 1.75 amps)  ie: 7 amps if you had a trailer and used the hazard warning.

 

 

Weird that I got recommended "No, you need 16a minimum" from Wired by Wilson, I would have thought he would known correct but he then further went on to say he wasnt insured to give advise

[coopertaz]

looking at haynes wiring seems these are for tail lights, indicator and interior light. 16A seems overkill for these circuits but you can get a multimeter and work current draw out using ohms law. guidance on net

Edited by coopertaz, 23 June 2023 - 10:35 AM.

[stuart bowes]

recommending oversized cable if you're admitting to not being insured to comment, is probably just erring on the side of safety

 

and when you consider the extra weight and size of a slightly thicker cable (i.e. zero) then really there's no harm at all in overdoing it, the limiting factor for shorts or sudden extra draw will then be the fuse which is easily replaced

 

I always stay away from 'bare minimum' when it comes to electrics

 

and because I work for an electrical contractor most of the wiring I do is taken from stock and therefore either 1.5mm or 2.5mm which is almost always overkill

Edited by stuart bowes, 23 June 2023 - 10:54 AM.

[cal844]

Wired by Wilson is an expert in the field, he will be going over rated for a very good reason... If you fit the size of wire he says to fit there won't be any chance of fire by the wire melting

[KTS]

if you are replacing a section of wire, there is no practical benefit in using a wire with a higher capacity than that used in the rest of the circuit

 

the only wire to the rear of a mini that would conceivably need to carry more than 10amps would be for the fuel pump on an MPI/SPI car

 

standard indicator and sidelight and interior circuits would use 1mm² at maximum (..and probably less; i think on later cars some rear light circuits went down to 0.5mm² thinwall)

Edited by KTS, 23 June 2023 - 11:59 AM.

[Ethel]

Heated rear screens draw a fair amount of current too.

 

Bear in mind later cars tend to have a lot more fuses, You'll want the fuse to blow before the wire melts, so any wire downstream of a use wants to be rated higher.

 

This is probably a good time to do a little reading about how different fuses are rated - "continuous current" "blow rating" "blade fuse" "Lucas glass fuse" for googling.

[weef]

As with all things the novice is always wary of not doing the correct thing, quite rightly so, and wiring problem posts appear on the forum regularly regarding wire sizing.

The definitive way to calculate the size/ current capacity is to measure an individual  strand diameter and count how many individul strands make up the cable, hence the cable you are looking at is designated as 28/0.03 and this is a cable made up of 28 individual strands of wire each being 0.03mm in diameter. Most retailers indicate a wire size by the number of strands/ thier diameter ( 28/0.03) and the mm2 size (2.0mm2) in this example, this sizing method is quite universal.

So in your case cut open the wire you want to replace and count/measure as above to get the wire capacity, then look at the retailers information to match your cable size. If a direct option is not available go to the nearest size UP never down.

When splicing cable a good mechanical and electrical joint is important, whether it is an crimp type, wrapped or soldered, and if replacing several cables in a loom stagger these joints as it makes for a neater job when the loom is retaped.

Confidence will come with experience and every day is a school day for all of us.

[JXC Mini GT]

I would look at the fuse size protecting the cable, as has been previously mentioned you want the fuse to rupture before damaging the cable. 

[DeadSquare]

I would look at the fuse size protecting the cable, as has been previously mentioned you want the fuse to rupture before damaging the cable. 

Both fuses on a Mini used to be 35 amp.

[Steam]

I would look at the fuse size protecting the cable, as has been previously mentioned you want the fuse to rupture before damaging the cable.

Both fuses on a Mini used to be 35 amp.

Actually they were 17 amp.

[sonscar]

Could be wrong but I thought they were labeled 17A continuous 35A blow,or is it just my ageing memory,Steve..