20 replies to this topic

[Cyclops63]

Hi, all. My engine is out. My gear linkage is off the shell. I've just replaced the rod change oil seal. Is there any reason I shouldn't fit eye bolt sleeve to gearbox before the engine goes back in. Access to the rod roller pjn is much easier than the box end once its in🤔
Is this logical or might I open a can of worms?
Cheers Stewart

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[GraemeC]

The sleeve is not a tight fit on the rods and I've always found that tapping the roll pin into the unsupported gear change rod is much harder than tapping it into the nicely supported gearbox selector rod.

I'd also question whether the access to the rod roll pin is easier - from memory although its further away from the back of the gearbox it is not at a good angle to get nice clean hammer blows onto it.

 

If it was easier everyone would do it that way - there's reasons that they don't!

Edited by GraemeC, 10 October 2023 - 02:46 PM.

[Chris1275gt]

I’d bought the quick change sleeve from minispares saves beating it about with a hammer and putting the new seal about. It takes a couple of minutes to remove and refit.

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

[Designer]

I’d bought the quick change sleeve from minispares saves beating it about with a hammer and putting the new seal about. It takes a couple of minutes to remove and refit.

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

Same here but it is quite easy to bend the clips or at least one side back a bit to far so you lose the grip even if you squeeze them back together.

[Cyclops63]

Thsnks,gents. I don't think I'll spend 30quid on the quick release version. Sounds much of a muchness, Graeme, so probably do gearbox end first then wrestle with the rearward pin from on the ground.

[GraemeC]

No - fit the sleeve to the selector mechanism on the bench, bolt it up to the car then attached the sleeve to the gearbox.

 

If you do it the other way around you will be trying (struggling) to refit the roll pin at the selector end whilst under the car and the rod from the gear selector is flapping about.

[Cyclops63]

I can't imagine why I will be "struggling" more to refit a more accessible pin. This is the pin that
I removed to get the engine out. If it was easier coming out, then my thinking is that it will be probably be easier going back. I don't see how the rod will be "flapping about" The linkage will have been reattached to the floor and rod inserted into the sleeve.

[Steam]

you can use a suitable sized g clamp to push the pin in, it is much easier.

[GraemeC]

I can't imagine why I will be "struggling" more to refit a more accessible pin. This is the pin that
I removed to get the engine out. If it was easier coming out, then my thinking is that it will be probably be easier going back. I don't see how the rod will be "flapping about" The linkage will have been reattached to the floor and rod inserted into the sleeve.

 

Then feel free to do it your way and let us all know how you get on.

[Cyclops63]

Thanks. That's just what I'll do. Will report back.

[Cyclops63]

Soooo....
The roller pin fitted into the rearmost of the two holes quite simply. It certainly couldn't have been easier to tackle the front one instead.
One thing to note. It's much easier to attach the steady rod bolt without having refitted the exhaust. Perseverance and some colourful language prevailed.

[stuart bowes]

is there some good reason why it's not a good idea to simply fit a nut and bolt through each hole instead of those stupid little roll pins

 

drill it out slightly larger if necessary to perfectly fit into both rod and joiner so there's zero slack

Edited by stuart bowes, 22 October 2023 - 08:39 PM.

[Ethel]

I've bunged bolts in when the roll pin has fallen out on the road & never got round to replacing them with a new pin.

[Cyclops63]

They must be VERY thin bolts.... but if you've got them, why not. I suspect the roller pins may be of a more durable metal than a common or garden bolt. However, the entire system is yet another sadistic perversion from the good folks at BL...

[R32Egor]

No - fit the sleeve to the selector mechanism on the bench, bolt it up to the car then attached the sleeve to the gearbox.

 

If you do it the other way around you will be trying (struggling) to refit the roll pin at the selector end whilst under the car and the rod from the gear selector is flapping about.

I concur this is the best method having done it numerous times this year