Been away on holiday for a bit, so not too much more progress, but a few bits more to share:
Ordered a replacement high energy ignition module to swap out the standard one I had to switch to while at the dyno. Tried to fit it and... no start. Spoke to Powerspark who suggested to check the gap between the reluctor and the module and make sure it's as close as possible without touching, but no more than 10 thou. It was closer to 25 thou. Moved it as close as can be and it's fired up, probably means the original module may have been fine too I'd just fitted it wrong (I took it out at one point trying to diagnose a problem where it was cutting out).
Apparently it's not so critical on the standard modules, but is on the high energy ones. I am wondering if I've made things worse though, is there a good test you can do at home beyond just using something like a spark gap tester and seeing how far the spark can jump? I'm not sure what difference you'd expect to see there between a standard and a high energy unit anyway.
The indicators never self cancelled properly, one direction they'd cancel almost immediately and the other not at all. The pins on the steering wheel boss weren't in the right location and however you orient the wheel, couldn't be quite correct from what I could see. Drilled a couple new holes for the pins and that's sorted that. I also noted the inner bits of trim at the edge of the spokes on the wheel were a bit loose, so drilled the rivets out, tapped the wheel itself and pulled the leather tight and refitted with screws to clamp the material down. Not perfect, but it'll do for now.
One more thing, something I'd worked on a few weeks ago but never posted the photos here. I know it's not exactly in keeping with the classic vibe, but I really like having Android Auto for maps/music in my cars. I just didn't want it to look "bodged" using a suction phone holder or similar. So, I came up with this:
This wirelessly connects to my phone like a factory install and gives me maps/Spotify. I've tucked it as close to the dash rail as I can within the Z-height constraints in the mounting. It's USB-C powered and there's a 3.5mm aux cable down to the amp. The screen detaches magnetically if you need to remove it for whatever reason:
Printed out of carbon fiber reinforced polycarbonate, so it ought to take the heat no problem.
There's a lot of these screens on Amazon etc for pretty cheap, but the build quality is kinda naff (eg, most of them don't have properly laminated screens like you'd get on a modern phone so they're more prone to glare/reflections). I found a decent quality unit that was pretty neat with small bezels to use for this installation (Amazon link). The mount it comes with is a ball socket which added like 15mm to the depth and made it stick out too much, so I sourced a strong magnet of the right shape/depth to 3D print the actual magnetic mounting adapter as well as the actual mount to the dash.
Used it for a few drives recently and while the audio isn't amazing through the two parcel shelf speakers, it's perfectly good for directions and some music for when you're sat in traffic.
Edited by Hexxeh, 29 August 2025 - 03:51 PM.
