7 replies to this topic

[Bobbins]

What is the general consensus on what type and how much sound deadening and sound proofing material to use?  

 

I'm rebuilding my '98 and currently it's stripped of all the felt panels in the boot, floor, roof etc, plus the bitumen floor covering is all out, basically nice new paint to work on. I've looked at Dodomat and Silent Coat products but it's a minefield regarding what to use where, and at what thickness, plus I've seen everything in rebuild threads from minimal use of just deadening panels to full coverage with Silent Coat over the top. Also although I'm not planning that the underfloor area will get damp, it is of course a Mini and a little planning now to avoid water absorbing materials might prove useful later!

 

It's a heavy investment rebuild so I'm not loathed to spend on the right materials, ideally I'll do it once and do it right!

 

Stu.

 

 

[andyapanel]

A bit on the door panels helps.

The trouble is it weighs a lot. I chiselled loads off the rear seat, with no detrimental noise increase.

A bit on the floor protects the steel from water influx.. Not sure how much effect it has on noise.

I bought mine from Somerfords.

Looks like a super paint job

[slidehammer]

on a different note, that does look lovely and shiny and almost a shame to cover it up.

I don't know a huge amount about sound proofing but there are 2 types. One type is deigned to stop panel drumming like on a roof panel or in the doors and the second type is a sound insulator . I am sure with a bit of Googling or Youtube you will find some good advice

[PoolGuy]

I'd use Dynamat Superlite on as much of the external panels as possible, with Dynaliner 1/4" over it on the front bulkhead.

[Bobbins]

Thank you for the comments both about sound insulation and the paint job! 

 

I suspect the late model Rover Minis had complete overkill on sound deadening just to get them to be something on a level with other cars of the '90s era, the bitumen covering on the floor and rear seat was substantial and weighed a ton, likely why the later cars weigh so much. I hadn't considered using adhesive sound insulation over vibration damping, I'd been thinking about using the two separately, sound deadening sheets adhered to the floor with loose fit sound insulation then above, beneath the carpet. I guess as long as the materials used are all hydrophobic everything can be bonded down even though it's going to hurt to cover up the nice new paint!

 

The outside looks even better ....

 

[KTS]

with regard to deadening mats I'd have to say that dynamat edges silentcoat, but is more expensive.  Because of that i've used dynamat on the big flat panels (doors, roof, bonnet) and silent coat on floors and bulkheads etc where carpets,underlay etc would provide some additional help

[Steve220]

You only need to cover 50% max of the panel. I've seen people cover every inch - it's a waste, and a clear misunderstanding of the product. Close cell foam and mass loaded vinyl are what deaden sound. The 'bitumin' panels only change the harmonics of the panel.

[IronmanG]

You only need to cover 50% max of the panel. I've seen people cover every inch - it's a waste, and a clear misunderstanding of the product. Close cell foam and mass loaded vinyl are what deaden sound. The 'bitumin' panels only change the harmonics of the panel.

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