10 replies to this topic

[Elwyn]

Hello

 

I had a non-staring problem.

TMF came to the rescue.

 

I carried out as many electrical checks as I could (within my limited ability).

Everything seemed ok.

 

I took the petrol tank out of the car.

I removed the fuel sender and the fuel pump holding gadgetry from the top.

 

The fuel sender is about a year old.

It was VERY rusty.

The float mechanism no longer moved at all.

The fuel pump had dropped / lost its filter.

The underside of the top of the overall pump housing gadgetry was also VERY rusty.

 

The inside of the tank is spotted with quite a bit of patchy (not all over) rust.

 

New pump ordered.

 

I've cleaned and freed up the sender.

It may or may not work.

I'm trying to save money!

 

GETTING TO THE POINT (FINALLY)...

 

In the hope that I'm now on my way to fixing the problem (new pump and cleaned-up sender), what's the best solution regarding the rusty (inside) tank?

 

I've seen threads and posts to links to products that de-grease, de-rust and line the inside of the tank.

POR15 and others.

The products alone look like they'll be c£100.

Plus the hassle (which I quite like)

And disposal of the chemicals.

 

A new (after market) SPI tank is about £200.

 

Would a new tank only start to rust as my existing tank has done, over time?

 

Any thoughts / suggestions / recommendations?

 

From experience, ideally.

 

Thanks all

 

[sonscar]

My Triumph TR7 tank suffered a similar fate.I used a product from Rustbusters to treat it about ten years ago and it is still doing the job.I cannot see why a new tank would not also go rusty.Steve..

[Midas Mk1]

I used the por15 kit on a tank with a hairline crack, worked fine, until I got another crack from the nsr shock bottoming out, didn’t hold.

Would I use again? no - i’d get a new tank, less hassle.

[Quinlan minor]

A new (after market) SPI tank is about £200.

 

Would a new tank only start to rust as my existing tank has done, over time?

 

Any thoughts / suggestions / recommendations?

 

From experience, ideally.

 

Thanks all

If a new tank is kept filled with fuel, on a car run regularly, there's no reason it should rust.

On a car left for long periods, in a cold humid environment with little fuel in the tank, on the other hand,...

[Elwyn]

It won't be full or fuel or used regularly. It's our 2nd / 3rd or even 4th car (based on how much it gets used). 

Thanks all for your feedback.

[Deeppockets]

With the ethanol now in the fuel sadly I believe rusty tanks are something we will all have to live with going forward.

[Bobbins]

I’d refurbish the old tank over buying a new one. Although a new one would be new steel I’d have little confidence that dimensionally it would be identical to the original. I’m pretty sure there are companies that will do the refurbishing for you.

[cooperd70]

Frost POR15 Fuel Tank Sealer. Had a rusty tank 7/8 years ago and it's still going strong.

Edited by cooperd70, 25 March 2024 - 07:35 AM.

[Elwyn]

Thanks again everyone. 

I'm sticking with the old / original tank.

It's awkward enough to wriggle and waggle it in and out of the car without the added complication (potentially) of a new, aftermarket tank not being quite the right size / shape.

I've also ordered a POR15 tank kit of degreaser, rust remover / primer and tank sealer.

It will keep me busy for a while.

[Steve220]

Once you've got the car back together again, i'd replace the fuel filter too. It's probably clogged.

[Elwyn]

Once you've got the car back together again, i'd replace the fuel filter too. It's probably clogged.

Thanks. Good idea. Ordered one.