3 replies to this topic

[Ashley mayston-king]

Hi, I wonder if you guys could help me. I bought a 1989 mini with a 1275 metro engine about 2.5 years ago. I bought one that was mot’d and running well since I wanted to use it and not take on a project and intended to do all the maintenance as I went along learning as I go as I have never owned a mini or a classic car before. The car ran beautifully for 18 months or so only being used on dry weekends and then one day I was driving it home and it stalled at a roundabout just shut down ad soon as it became stationary. I started the car again and continued home 3/4 miles later I felt a noticeable drop in power and engine tone I pulled over and double checked the levels all was ok so I decided to try and make it home as it was only another 2-3 miles. I did just about make it home having to keep the revs up when slowing down and by the time I got home I had almost no power at all. Once the car was on the drive it became very hard to restart and when it did the car sounded rough and wouldn’t rev up at all staying at idle speeds regardless of throttle position even though you could tell it was trying to increase the revs. That was 10 months ago and I haven’t had her running since.

I have changed
Ignition coil
Ignition switch
H\T leads
Dizzy cap
Rotor arm
Spark plugs
Cleaned earth at battery
Jumper bypass cable solenoid to coil

And no change. It is a factory electronic ignition. And I am getting fuel to the plugs but no spark. I get 1 spark as the key is released 80% of the time but nothing as the car is Turing over. This is driving me mad as all I hear is ‘these engines couldn’t be more simple’ and yet nothing I try improves anything. I get that it’s just all about knowledge that I don’t have (hence why I am asking here) but I wanted to enjoy the process so ‘keeping her going’ but so far has been much harder than I anticipated.

Any ideas for my lack of spark would be greatly appreciated

[68+86auto]

To start with please check the battery voltage while cranking. Anything under 9.6v is a flat or bad battery unless you test at the starter, in that case it could be cables. Connect a multimeter to the starter battery connection and other lead to the engine ground. Crank the engine with the ignition disconnected for 20 seconds. Since yours won't start you don't really need to disconnect the ignition. Read the voltage WHILE it is cranking.

 

If you get above 9.6v then the battery is declared "good".

 

If you get below 9.6v then repeat the test but with the meter on the battery posts. If you get above 9.6v then you have a bad connection somewhere. If it is still below 9.6v, recharge the battery and retest. if still the same then your battery is bad.

 

 

Once you have confirmed that there is at least 9.6v at the starter terminal whilst cranking then we can proceed further.

 

Put a test light across the primary terminals of the coil. try to start the engine, does the light flash?

[sonscar]

I would venture that the head gasket has failed or valve sealing issues.Steve..

[coopertaz]

 should be ballast ignition so seperate 12v feed to coil when cranking, should have 2 wires to positive on the coil if it is. put a permanent feed to the coil first seperate to7 ignition then test for spark.do not leave on this will damage coil! as for change in tone do compression check first and go from there. not unusual for exhaust to collapse if very old and cause power loss and noise change