20 replies to this topic

[Spider]

I'd suggest here removing the thrust bearing and adding a washer between the bearing and plunger to pack the bearing out closer to the flywheel. Given your description here, I'd say / guesstimate something around 0.8 to 1.0 mm thick will do it. If you want a more accurate measurement for the spacer thickness, before taking anything apart, measure the free play on the plunger.

Which actually brings up another thing that would be wise to do here. Unless your plunger has already been changed (it should have been done at a service point by the dealer), fit the later plunger and over-throw nuts, adjust these last as per the workshop manual.

[BrianHJ]

I'd suggest here removing the thrust bearing and adding a washer between the bearing and plunger to pack the bearing out closer to the flywheel. Given your description here, I'd say / guesstimate something around 0.8 to 1.0 mm thick will do it. If you want a more accurate measurement for the spacer thickness, before taking anything apart, measure the free play on the plunger.

Which actually brings up another thing that would be wise to do here. Unless your plunger has already been changed (it should have been done at a service point by the dealer), fit the later plunger and over-throw nuts, adjust these last as per the workshop manual.

Thank you, I will give that suggestion a try . I did fit a new bearing and plunger, I will just have to find a big enough washer to fit it.

[BrianHJ]

 

I'd suggest here removing the thrust bearing and adding a washer between the bearing and plunger to pack the bearing out closer to the flywheel. Given your description here, I'd say / guesstimate something around 0.8 to 1.0 mm thick will do it. If you want a more accurate measurement for the spacer thickness, before taking anything apart, measure the free play on the plunger.

Which actually brings up another thing that would be wise to do here. Unless your plunger has already been changed (it should have been done at a service point by the dealer), fit the later plunger and over-throw nuts, adjust these last as per the workshop manual.

Thank you, I will give that suggestion a try . I did fit a new bearing and plunger, I will just have to find a big enough washer to fit it.

 

I had to fit a 2.3mm washer to take up the play, which worked; however it crunches slightly getting into first or reverse gear now.  When torqued up how close should the diaphragm be to the flywheel, it seems very depressed and close. I thought about fitting a washer to each tab to allow more room for movement in the diaphragm to give more clearance when depressed.  My only worry is slippage on driving.

[GraemeC]

The bevelled spring on the inside of the diaphragm should be pretty much flat when torqued up.

If it is a new clutch plate then having the spring so its not quite flattened out gives the best compromise between initial clutch grip and long service life

[BrianHJ]

The bevelled spring on the inside of the diaphragm should be pretty much flat when torqued up.

If it is a new clutch plate then having the spring so its not quite flattened out gives the best compromise between initial clutch grip and long service life

Thank you, it does get into gear and it drives well in the other gears, I was concerned that it was going to cause a problem as it sits only a few millimeters from the flywheel.  Thanks for the info

[BrianHJ]

Finally completed and working well.  I did fit 1mm washers between the pressure plate and the straps to stop the crunching in first and reverse gears. I couldn't have completed this without the help from everyone replying in the forum with hints/tips and offers of parts.  Thank you all, Brian