Stage 1 Kit - 7 Hours, 4 Pairs Of Hands
Started by
NateDogg2909
, Nov 20 2006 03:34 PM
12 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 20 November 2006 - 03:34 PM
How Do All,
Just got round to fitting my long awaited stage 1.
How'd it go i all hear you crying.........it went fine just need tuning. BUT...
minispares are just great, no instuctions came, nice
Came round to putting the carb on after sunday dinner and we were all wondering whether to use the spacer that came off the old inlet. We did by the way but christ all mightly was it a fit and a half to get the bogger back on. But now after no alterations to the bolts that hold the airbox on.....it don't fit.
I dont know if this is down to the tight fit, so...is the spacer an essential or can you leave it out and spin the bolts the other way round to shorten the threaded area and loose the gap?
Cheers,
Nate
Just got round to fitting my long awaited stage 1.
How'd it go i all hear you crying.........it went fine just need tuning. BUT...
minispares are just great, no instuctions came, nice
Came round to putting the carb on after sunday dinner and we were all wondering whether to use the spacer that came off the old inlet. We did by the way but christ all mightly was it a fit and a half to get the bogger back on. But now after no alterations to the bolts that hold the airbox on.....it don't fit.
I dont know if this is down to the tight fit, so...is the spacer an essential or can you leave it out and spin the bolts the other way round to shorten the threaded area and loose the gap?
Cheers,
Nate
#2
Posted 20 November 2006 - 03:48 PM
yep. joy of alloy inlets. this is why i want to go back to my old cast one.
if you take the spacer out you might as well just use bolts. see that done in a mini world mag or two.
if you take the spacer out you might as well just use bolts. see that done in a mini world mag or two.
#3
Posted 20 November 2006 - 03:58 PM
Turning the studs round wont work, they have different threads at each end IIRC.
You dont need the spacer, its original intention was to help prevent heat transfer from the cast iron manifold to the carb. Not so much of an issue with the alloy item, but if you can its worth keeping it in there. You might find that the throttle linkage hits the inlet manifold without it though.
Shorter studs can be ordered from most suppliers (and IMO should be supplied with the kit in the first place!) as can thinner spacers should you need one to get clearance for the throttle linkage.
Give whoever supplied the kit a ring and see what they say, maybe they will send the bits through for nowt seeing as it wont fit !
You dont need the spacer, its original intention was to help prevent heat transfer from the cast iron manifold to the carb. Not so much of an issue with the alloy item, but if you can its worth keeping it in there. You might find that the throttle linkage hits the inlet manifold without it though.
Shorter studs can be ordered from most suppliers (and IMO should be supplied with the kit in the first place!) as can thinner spacers should you need one to get clearance for the throttle linkage.
Give whoever supplied the kit a ring and see what they say, maybe they will send the bits through for nowt seeing as it wont fit !
#4
Posted 20 November 2006 - 04:27 PM
so what is ur problem? can u just not get ur carb back on? because it took 3 hands pulling the engine forward to slip mine back on using the original spacer? or have you got it back on and it tight against the bulkhead? if thts the case i bet minispares will be more than happy to sell u a thinner spacer.....
#5
Posted 20 November 2006 - 04:35 PM
^^ he cant get the air filter box on as the position of the studs (for the filter box) have moved forwards.
#6
Posted 20 November 2006 - 04:44 PM
if hes done what i think hes done hes put the plate that takes the cables between the spacer and the inlet, wheres it should go between the carb and the spacer. if the front stud for it has moved forwards then thats his problem?! if not call me an idiot
#7
Posted 20 November 2006 - 05:12 PM
Good point
The alloy manifolds are longer though so there could still be a clearance issue....
The alloy manifolds are longer though so there could still be a clearance issue....
#8
Posted 20 November 2006 - 05:23 PM
they are longer but it would only really cause an issue at the back of the engine bay which would push the studs to far back the engine bay which it y a lot of people go cone filter i think rather than keeping the standard airbox.
#9
Posted 21 November 2006 - 09:47 PM
I think he has put the plate back on in the wrong position. I bought that kit and had a few slight problems putting the carb back on, nothing major though. Have since gone the way of the HIF and it makes a hell of an improvement over the standard hs4. I am now thinking of running without the spacer as when i change gear in anger the bottom of the carb gives the bulkhead a good old twatting!! Really should sort that out!!! I used the cone but reading calver's corner recently I may have to switch back to the standard filter (Slightly Modded!!!) Apparently you can get more bananas out of the standard airbox and a k&n filter with holes drilled in the box
Oooohh bananas!
http://www.gr8websit...erst/CC110F.htm
Have a look... a very interesting read!!
Oooohh bananas!
http://www.gr8websit...erst/CC110F.htm
Have a look... a very interesting read!!
#10
Posted 22 November 2006 - 09:02 PM
Ok, Ok. Im Stupid.
Good thing is turned up at my local guru's garage, worted it there and then on me knees, he tuned it by ear. Although i think the timing might be slightly out or something because its got a little flat spot when accelerating.
The plate was wrong but i did find out i had a buggared accelly cable, got a free one of those, a cup of tea and a free carb tune so i wasn't really bothered.
Nate
Good thing is turned up at my local guru's garage, worted it there and then on me knees, he tuned it by ear. Although i think the timing might be slightly out or something because its got a little flat spot when accelerating.
The plate was wrong but i did find out i had a buggared accelly cable, got a free one of those, a cup of tea and a free carb tune so i wasn't really bothered.
Nate
#11
Posted 23 November 2006 - 02:43 PM
sounds like you got a good deal in the end then mate!!! so does it feel like its improved performance overall then?? was it worth it?? ive never had a mini with a stage one kit thats been re tuned up after fitment, so always felt the same really!!
#12
Posted 23 November 2006 - 03:28 PM
Its got a flat spot when accelerating i think its low down the in the revs but yep, i maxed the speedo out yesterday and i didn't even feel like the engine was bothered.
So thumbs up and a big smile from me untill i get the funds to get a 997 cooper cam fitted.
Nate
So thumbs up and a big smile from me untill i get the funds to get a 997 cooper cam fitted.
Nate
#13
Posted 25 November 2006 - 07:29 PM
the flat spot could be the carb needle running slightly lean!! if you have an aau needle then try fitting the AAA!! it just fuels slightly more. as many have said before the needle they supply with the stg 1 kit is often an average approximation of your engines requirments!! only true way to get top banana out of the engine is a rolling road setup that can check the fuelling under load!!
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