
Mpi Front Wheel Play On Mot

Best Answer wilsonch , 03 July 2024 - 02:14 PM
Thanks for all the advice
I will start checking through the list paying more attention to the steering.
Alright, sorted. sometimes you have to hold your hands up and take all the blame for being stupid.........just me then.
taking Spiders advice started looking more closely at the steering.
Found the steering arms that bolt to the hubs loose, but only a fraction.
The reason i didnt even contemplate this is i have built up the hubs well before fitting, thought i had tightened the bolts sufficiently and even bent the lock tabs over. one of those " thats done i can put that to one side and do something else now"
I can only think that having driven it a few miles its somehow settled a little, enough to give me a headache.
Thank you all for the pointers and advice. as this is my first mini rebuild, its all a bit of a learning curve.
Much appreciated
Chris
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#16
Posted 02 July 2024 - 06:33 PM
#17
Posted 02 July 2024 - 07:09 PM
taper washer still has a gap when fully torqued up.
could it be play in the cv joint?
#18
Posted 03 July 2024 - 04:58 AM
Did you remove the washer mentioned a couple of posts ago?
#19
Posted 03 July 2024 - 05:52 AM
taper washer still has a gap when fully torqued up.
That's correct.
#20
Posted 03 July 2024 - 06:17 AM
paragraph 12 says insert drive shaft but do not fit split collar yet but first insert plain washer to the dimensions in fig 3.12.......is this correct? any one else do this ?
in the haynes manual fig 4.3 on page 10.4 does not show this extra washer.
I couldn't say how many hubs I have done over the years, it would be more than 300. I've never used the flat washer ever.
As long as the Split Tapered Washer fits the plain shank after where the thread ends on CV as shown in the FAQ Guide, that's all that's needed when tighten up the nut.
However,,,,
Given the issue you are finding, I'm reasonably sure it is not related to the Wheel Bearing. If it was, you'd feel play at the 3-9 O'clock as you are now and the 6-12 O'clock as well.
Given it has reported play at 3-9 O'clock only, it's steering related.
I did read that you have replaced some parts to do with the steering, however, respectfully here, please make no assumptions, just because it's new doesn't mean it's OK.
One item here that is very very easy to over look is the Steering Arm and where it's bolted to the Hub. I have found many over the years that the bolts have been tight on these, yet,the arm when pushed, still moves. This is usually from stretched bolts.
Is the Lock Nut against the Rod End tight ?
Is there play in the Steering Rack ?
Is the Rack tight in the Body ?
As the Road Wheel is fairly large in comparison to the radius that the steering components are, the smallest of play in them shows up easily and big at the wheel.
#21
Posted 03 July 2024 - 02:14 PM Best Answer
Thanks for all the advice
I will start checking through the list paying more attention to the steering.
Alright, sorted. sometimes you have to hold your hands up and take all the blame for being stupid.........just me then.
taking Spiders advice started looking more closely at the steering.
Found the steering arms that bolt to the hubs loose, but only a fraction.
The reason i didnt even contemplate this is i have built up the hubs well before fitting, thought i had tightened the bolts sufficiently and even bent the lock tabs over. one of those " thats done i can put that to one side and do something else now"
I can only think that having driven it a few miles its somehow settled a little, enough to give me a headache.
Thank you all for the pointers and advice. as this is my first mini rebuild, its all a bit of a learning curve.
Much appreciated
Chris
Edited by wilsonch, 03 July 2024 - 04:48 PM.
#22
Posted 03 July 2024 - 07:39 PM
Nice work !
#23
Posted 03 July 2024 - 08:53 PM
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