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Sometimes, Too Hot. Rad O Electric Fan ?


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#16 68+86auto

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Posted 30 July 2024 - 11:30 PM

As others have already said, your timing needs to be checked throughout the RPM range. once that is perfect, check the mixture. If either of these are off they create heaps of additional heat for no purpose other than engine destruction.



#17 alpder

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Posted 31 July 2024 - 08:23 AM


Well well well, maybe you're right. I've been looking for my old 5L antifreeze container used before my engine's restauration, and it is 30%.


Maybe there is the issue.

 

Maybe coolant is an issue. But even if changing the coolant to something slightly more effective does keep the temp dial in normal bounds, there may still be another underlying cause of excess heat generation. Please do check what others have mentioned - especially timing and mixture.



#18 Lplus

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Posted 31 July 2024 - 02:53 PM

Hi guys! How is everything going? I've got a little problem. A month ago they completely my car with the rebuilt engine. High compression pistons, camshaft (SW5)...etc.
The engine reaches the optimal working temperature (90°C) very soon. But the heat is overwhelming like these summer days, the needle easily goes to 100/120 degrees as soon as you are stopped.
The car;a 1972 Austin Mini, now 1310cc, double S.u Hs2 carb and standar radiator with 11blades yellow plastic fan.

Wich would be the best option to improve the cooling?
The super two cores radiator (C-ARA4443) like Minispares advise me, or an electro fan in the wing prepared "just"to cool as soon as the temperature goes above 90 degrees?

Kind regards
Luis

How many miles on the engine?  newly built engines do tend to be a bit tight.



#19 PACINO

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Posted 31 July 2024 - 05:50 PM

How many miles on the engine? newly built engines do tend to be a bit tight.

Only 20 miles. I'm not legal to run. I'm waiting to get the MOT in a couple of days.

Edited by PACINO, 31 July 2024 - 05:59 PM.


#20 PACINO

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Posted 31 July 2024 - 06:08 PM

Please do check what others have mentioned - especially timing and mixture.


Beautiful. I'l do the perfect timing to rule out reasons and later, the mixture helped by Gunson's colortune kit.

#21 PACINO

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Posted 31 July 2024 - 06:19 PM

Cheers to Nick...Cal844, Sonscar, Alpder and Stefan.

#22 PACINO

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Posted 31 July 2024 - 06:22 PM

As others have already said, your timing needs to be checked throughout the RPM range. once that is perfect, check the mixture. If either of these are off they create heaps of additional heat for no purpose other than engine destruction.


Thanks a lot man!

#23 gazza82

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Posted 01 August 2024 - 10:11 AM

Not sure about the coolant .. if that is organic it's wrong for our engines and rads. Should be the Glycol type.

Organic may work but it won't be good for soldered parts like the rad. It was designed for alloy engines and plastic parts

#24 PACINO

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Posted 01 August 2024 - 03:32 PM

Not sure about the coolant .. if that is organic it's wrong for our engines and rads. Should be the Glycol type.

Organic may work but it won't be good for soldered parts like the rad. It was designed for alloy engines and plastic parts


Is very possible I'll buy a bottle of Bluecol antifreeze to mix with distilled water to put in my copper radiator. Everybody talks nice about it.
Screenshot-20240801-004708-Chrome.jpg

#25 Midas Mk1

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Posted 01 August 2024 - 04:09 PM

Standard rads are poor on anything other than standard, ive found the minispares 2 core to be better, but still crept up on both 1312 and 1380 engines. 

Have a thermex (minispares supplied) rad now, with electric fan for traffic. If you've got a standard rad your just wasting your time... and coolant. 



#26 Readers14

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Posted 01 August 2024 - 05:02 PM

I’m just in the process of upgrading the electric fan in the inner wing.

The standard fan wasn’t wired in so was basically an ornament.

 

The new electric fan is a Revotec item & I’ve got a Davies Craig temperature switch to control the fan.

 

Also replaced the thermostat as the old one wasn’t working, plus a coolant change.



#27 PACINO

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Posted 01 August 2024 - 08:56 PM

Standard rads are poor on anything other than standard, ive found the minispares 2 core to be better, but still crept up on both 1312 and 1380 engines. 

Have a thermex (minispares supplied) rad now, with electric fan for traffic. If you've got a standard rad your just wasting your time... and coolant.

I appreciate your opinion. I agree that just putting in better coolant is not enough and is a waste of money. If after timing the dizzy perfectly the engine continues to heat up, I'll go for the radiator that Gavin from Minispares
recommended to me (C-ARA4443) super two cores. It is the same one that the rally Minis used in the past, according to what he told me. Minispares does not have the Thermex that you mention.

Or... to not be cold all the time, (something very bad), fit an electric fan with a sensor, which works only from 90°.

Regards
Luis

#28 PACINO

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Posted 01 August 2024 - 10:58 PM


Screenshot-20240801-233858-Chrome.jpg

Screenshot-20240801-233714-Chrome.jpg

By the way, what do you think about the small water pump pulley, would it be an improvement?? The one from Minisport is the smallest (80mm).
I'm sorry to bother you , but today I failed the M.O.T. so I just have a little time to ask new spares and try it again.

Edited by PACINO, 01 August 2024 - 11:02 PM.


#29 nicklouse

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Posted 02 August 2024 - 06:17 AM

Not at all. More likely to make things worse.

 

have a read.

 

https://www.calverst...nt-temperature/



#30 PACINO

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Posted 02 August 2024 - 11:50 PM

Not at all. More likely to make things worse.
 
have a read.
 
https://www.calverst...nt-temperature/


Excellent and very complete report by Keith. It's always good to give it a review.
Cheers Nick!




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