24 replies to this topic

[GermanMoreno]

Long story short, I suspect this happened because of the drop bracket I installed. After 2 yeas of installing the SMCO bracket the splines on the column got chewed up. 
I followed the steps of loosening the U bolts to loosen the rack and drop column to be able to install the bracket. I did not re centered the rack as instructed on the haynes manual, i honestly missed the step... 

My setup is:
Quick rack, (bought and installed 4 years ago)
SMCO drop bracket. (2 years on the car)

Question is, based on these pictures,

1-Do you think I need a new steering rack? Im unsure If the splines of the rack are still in good shape. I dont have a new rack to compare
2-Should I reinstall the drop bracket this time recentering the rack as Haynes manual instructs? or is a general issue with drop brackets to damage the steering column?

Any help and guidance appreciated! I tried taking different angles to show properly the condition of the splines.

 

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[nicklouse]

Rack is fine.

[bpirie1000]

New column required. Very common issue..

Nothing else for it... unless your on very good friends basis with a machine shop...

[GermanMoreno]

I am also wondering the difference in the groove for the pinch bolt on my rack, it goes all the way around whereas this ones that i commonly see arent,.. its just one groove to make place for the bolt to go trhough, could this be also contributing to the failure

Attached Files

•  Splines.jpg   48.31K   2 downloads

[Lplus]

I am also wondering the difference in the groove for the pinch bolt on my rack, it goes all the way around whereas this ones that i commonly see arent,.. its just one groove to make place for the bolt to go trhough, could this be also contributing to the failure

No, It shouldn't make any difference.

[bpirie1000]

Also never mentioned the condition of the metal around the steering rack spine side...

[Spider]

I see you did follow the procedure of loosening the U Bolts to re-align the column, however if I can suggest here when tightening the nuts up again on the U Bolts, rather than doing one nut up and moving on to the next, when I do them, I start on the U Bolt next to the column, turn one nut 1/2 a turn then do the same on the other, alternating between the 2 nuts until they are tight. I found that if doing up one nut, then the other, as you do the final tightening, it tends to roll the rack around a little, enough to chew out the splines.

 

 

I am also wondering the difference in the groove for the pinch bolt on my rack, it goes all the way around whereas this ones that i commonly see arent,.. its just one groove to make place for the bolt to go trhough, could this be also contributing to the failure

 

The one that has the groove all the way around is an early rack. The factory went to the other design (in the early 70's !) as a safety measure for when the spines chew out.
 

[GraemeC]

It’s hard to tell looking at the photos on a mobile, but that looks to me like the column hasn’t been fully engaged in the rack - the wear only looks to be in the portion up to the bolt, as though the very end of the column has been spinning on the tip of the rack splines and the bolt hasn’t been engaged in the rack groove.

[GermanMoreno]

It’s hard to tell looking at the photos on a mobile, but that looks to me like the column hasn’t been fully engaged in the rack - the wear only looks to be in the portion up to the bolt, as though the very end of the column has been spinning on the tip of the rack splines and the bolt hasn’t been engaged in the rack groove.

Yes the column wear only present at the end of the clomun, the further splines up the column are in good shape.

[GraemeC]

So it’s unlikely the drop bracket caused this, it was almost certainly due to the reassembly being incorrect.

Replace the column and ensure it is fully engage before inserting the bolt. To help you can measure how far from the floor the groove is and then check that measurement against the installed column.

[alpder]

Simple way to check the column is far enough onto the pinion shaft: fit the column onto the pinion, drop in the retaining bolt but leave it loose. Try to lift the column off - if correctly fitted then the column will be able to move up-and-down by a couple of mm, but the retaining bolt will prevent it moving any further up (or down) the pinion shaft.

[GermanMoreno]

Also never mentioned the condition of the metal around the steering rack spine side...

I’m not sure I understand this comment,.. could you elaborate

[GermanMoreno]

I see you did follow the procedure of loosening the U Bolts to re-align the column, however if I can suggest here when tightening the nuts up again on the U Bolts, rather than doing one nut up and moving on to the next, when I do them, I start on the U Bolt next to the column, turn one nut 1/2 a turn then do the same on the other, alternating between the 2 nuts until they are tight. I found that if doing up one nut, then the other, as you do the final tightening, it tends to roll the rack around a little, enough to chew out the splines.
 
 

I am also wondering the difference in the groove for the pinch bolt on my rack, it goes all the way around whereas this ones that i commonly see arent,.. its just one groove to make place for the bolt to go trhough, could this be also contributing to the failure

 
The one that has the groove all the way around is an early rack. The factory went to the other design (in the early 70's !) as a safety measure for when the spines chew out.

How does the rack’s splines look to you?

[nicklouse]

Now to take this further the female spline on the column can be removed. As it is only welded onto a mail spline. So don’t bin the column.

 

 

 

[bpirie1000]

Also never mentioned the condition of the metal around the steering rack spine side...

I’m not sure I understand this comment,.. could you elaborate

The bare metal around the recess for the rack to sit..