24 replies to this topic

[chuee]

Ah fair play mate.

It's the screw that goes in to the Pivot for the stalk. ...
The other 2 screws are the mounting screws, they hold it to the plate.

Ah. Cheers,  I know exactly what you mean now.   The 'pivot screw'  is a good description for that outer screw I speak about. The one that requires our attention.

Have I got this right:

 Q. - Are you suggesting the pivot screw should be fitted carefully over the mounting plate?  


>>    If that is all correct, then how exactly do yo bolt the pivot screw, large flange and all,  down over the mounting plate without causing binding -  BY keeping it loose?

Anyway, tried that again just now, doesn't work for me. We know It's definitely mounting the wiper stalk assembly that's causing problems.  But I'm gonna have to pretend no such thing as flick-to-wipe exists, or ever will. But i'll carry on driving the mini as my main  car forever.

Edited by chuee, 30 July 2025 - 03:05 PM.

[chuee]

PS> I could try reducing the size of the pivot screw's flange so it fits snugly inside the plate hole ...But I swore  above, there's no such thing as flick-to-wipe.    Impossible. 

 

Edited by chuee, 30 July 2025 - 05:35 PM.

[Spider]

PS> I could try reducing the size of the pivot screw's flange so it fits snugly inside the plate hole ...But I swore  above, there's no such thing as flick-to-wipe.    Impossible. 

 

There might be another reason for it not flicking to wipe - I maybe giving a bum steer.

Does the Stalk feel free to move or you think it's binding when not fitted ?

[chuee]

Does the Stalk feel free to move or you think it's binding when not fitted ?

 

Ta for that encouragement Spider, nice one:

Ans. When not fitted, the wiper stalk assembly moves nicely - without any slacness, a good tight click, plus a good spring action on the flick-to-wipe,  and no binding.

- When investigating the action of the flick to wipe with the switch unmounted but plugged into electrical cable harness, I had noticed that any slight  deflection in the plastic parts, for example with a loosened pivot screw, it will deflect when pressing the lever, and will no longer work to make contact with the slow wipe pole, THEREFORE, 

It's right that I should, and I'm going to,  try reducing the screw's flange diameter OR,  clearing out the hole to accommodate the screw with its flange as is; Otherwise the assembly does not fit nice and flat whether  fitting either with pivot bolt in place underneath the fixing plate, or else if screwed down over the plate.
 

Will report back, probably in a week or so because its become tedious for me,  though I'm still slightly keen to get it working, AND, 

I'm too excited to fit my fully rebuilt 900ss Ducati engine this week  into it's  modified and freshly painted frame with changed  pistons,  upgraded forks,  brakes, programmable  ignition box, lithium battery, custom seat,   this  week onward   , and start it up, ride it and tune it on the road.

Still driving the mini, and its a real joy.
Cheers, John

Edited by chuee, 30 July 2025 - 09:07 PM.

[Spider]

Yeah either reduce the dia of the flange or open up the hole.

If you back the screw off a wee bit, and it's fitted from the 'front', you should be able to test this theory.

[Mixagon]

I've got mine working now but the only way is to leave all three screws loose. The stalk moves like there is a little free play but it all works so I'm leaving it alone.

[chuee]

I've got mine working now but the only way is to leave all three screws loose. The stalk moves like there is a little free play but it all works so I'm leaving it alone.

Good news Mixagon!  I imagine a delighted grin. (by the way YOur car looks nice. Original white paint?)

This appears to be more more an art than a science! 

- I did try  mine with all screws loose, but that didn't work for me.
 

 I'll warn you, leaving it loose may cause that flick-to_wipe mechanism to go awry after some use, due to twisting and deformation of the plastic encasing of the switch with that flick-to_wipe spring; It would be better if it could work with tight screws, IMHO.

However, it's great to get any kind of  victory in this affair.. one that you deserve.   Keep grinning and enjoying it! There's more rain forecast in Derbyshire, you're in luck!

I'm getting to enjoy this battle, it is tuning out to be delightful, considering  the interesting nuances and the  camaraderie.   I'm definitely returning to my part in the campaign next week, with high morale. `
 

 

>> P.s Perhaps we should publish a book, 'Zen and the Art of Fitting Wiper Switches',  to go with all new units? We could award prizes to those who get them fitted and working. 

Edited by chuee, 31 July 2025 - 07:34 PM.

[Mixagon]

 

I've got mine working now but the only way is to leave all three screws loose. The stalk moves like there is a little free play but it all works so I'm leaving it alone.

Good news Mixagon!  I imagine a delighted grin. (by the way YOur car looks nice. Original white paint?)

This appears to be more more an art than a science! 

- I did try  mine with all screws loose, but that didn't work for me.
 

 I'll warn you, leaving it loose may cause that flick-to_wipe mechanism to go awry after some use, due to twisting and deformation of the plastic encasing of the switch with that flick-to_wipe spring; It would be better if it could work with tight screws, IMHO.
 

Its not original paint so not sure which white it is now.

I only changed my wiper switch because the stalk kept pulling out due to its housing being cracked, it had been glued before. The old switch is better made than the new one which I guess is a Chinese copy. I will keep an eye on the screws and maybe look for a better switch.

I noticed the wipers were slow so while in wiper repair mode I took all the mechanism off and cleaned and regreased and now normal speed resumed. Thats an interesting job if you have half a day to spare   
 

[chuee]

I noticed the wipers were slow so while in wiper repair mode I took all the mechanism off and cleaned and regreased and now normal speed resumed. Thats an interesting job if you have half a day to spare 

The old switch is better made than the new one ... maybe look for a better switch.

 

 

Ditto the old switch being better.

Ah, the cleaning contacts business , brilliant work, and I like what you suggest.  I do that like it's spring cleaning,    sort of a maniac's routine...  but my electrics are always good and crisp as a result.  Being a maniac in that department I do an earth leak and/or resistance test afterward,  and generally experience pure joy. The I laugh and  tell myself I'm a ****er.  , and feel proud.  

I'd swear under pressure of a decent amount of self-confirming bias,  it all works much more crisply, and I never break down usually from such things. Crisp includes ignition and hence,  engine starting, smooth running and power, before any tuning considerations.

 A lot of my contacts are hard-soldered , e.g. switches,  feeds to lamps, fuse box and even  the coils.
Where lucas spades and rings are needed, never any cheap and ugly  plastic covered crimp on variety (mainly because I feel nauseous seeing that kind of LGBT pink, partly because they oxidise and are generally weak because  it interferes with decent crimping),  although I do crimp on my bare contacts before soldering with a decent tool..

I find the lucas contacts are first rate, but benefit from protection in the long term.
A good idea I find and maybe you agree,  is to put a smidging of conductive grease on earth bolts and lucas spades. Actually, copper grease is as good as any special (silcon-based) grease. Helps to make and keep good  contact, as well stop oxidation. Not on switches though.

Edited by chuee, 01 August 2025 - 01:26 PM.

[chuee]

Got the thing working now. It's a boon for driving, have to say.   
Without its like irritating fidgeting  in light rain, and not good for keeping calm attention.

I had to keep the screws loose to have it on and working. Thanks for that tip @Mixagon.

First though, I found that off the column, it was no longer working - pushing the spring against the correct pole showed that was due to the spring being weakened when attempting earlier re-fittings, no doubt. A sharper bend in the  spring solved that. Removed the mass of yellow grease whilst at it, and replaced with a thinner small amount electrolytic grease.

Whilst tightening the three screws , after getting them gently up to the pinch ,  I would test for operation after each slight tightening on each; Noticed that it stopped working even  if reasonably tightened, both on the inner pair and separately,  the outer screw.
The outer screw had to be set  even looser.

So, best technique is to tighten cautiously and test until it stops working then back off. 

Conclusion is, that the plastic housing deforms far too easily, is not the optimum kind, I don't like it.