18 replies to this topic

[CDY]

Can anyone advise as to which type of metal 1/4” fuel line I should use on a 1980 1275gt, would it be copper nickel rather than just copper?

[nicklouse]

Makes no difference. Originals were steel IIRC.

[Spider]

Copper can react with some fuels, though, I have had no issues with it.

[Lplus]

I use copper/nickel.  Greater strength and almost as easy to bend.  I believe some countries banned plain copper brake lines.

[weef]

Steel tubing is your best option, and will take years to deteriorate, but it is more difficult to form than the options you suggest.

On longer runs it looks neater and has better mechanical strength than the copper based tubing and you will probably need some type of tube bending tool anyway, so forming the steel is no more difficult.

[Bobbins]

Steel as per the originals for fuel lines, Kunifer for brake lines.

Edited by Bobbins, 29 September 2024 - 12:40 PM.

[CDY]

Thanks everyone. I am proposing to put an inline filter in between the tank and the mechanical fuel pump. Your information is most helpful.

[ac427]

I use copper/nickel.  Greater strength and almost as easy to bend.  I believe some countries banned plain copper brake lines.

 

IS that what was known as Cupro Knickel or is that something else?

[Lplus]

 

I use copper/nickel.  Greater strength and almost as easy to bend.  I believe some countries banned plain copper brake lines.

 

IS that what was known as Cupro Knickel or is that something else?

 

 

Same stuff - also known as cunifer/kunifer, I believe.  It's what Halfords has reels of.

[MiNiKiN]

 

 

I use copper/nickel.  Greater strength and almost as easy to bend.  I believe some countries banned plain copper brake lines.

 

IS that what was known as Cupro Knickel or is that something else?

 

 

Same stuff - also known as cunifer/kunifer, I believe.  It's what Halfords has reels of.

 

KuNiFer as in Kupfer-Nickel-Ferrum (Copper-Nickel-Iron)

[stuart bowes]

when I looked up steel fuel line (this one for example which is apparently 'stell' not steel.. https://racingcult.c...qgaAimyEALw_wcB) it says not suitable for flaring.

 

I hadn't given it any thought until now actually, is it ok just to push the rubber tubing on at each end (say, an inch or so) and use a pipe clamp on that, job done?  or is there more to it

[Quinlan minor]

I hadn't given it any thought until now actually, is it ok just to push the rubber tubing on at each end (say, an inch or so) and use a pipe clamp on that, job done?  or is there more to it

Generally, its better if the metal pipe is flared, prevents the hose from being able to slip off.

[DeadSquare]

CuproNickel is the name of Copper Nickel alloys.  Before paying by card or phone, the one most people in UK knew was the change in their pocket.

 

Whereas the Copper in a copper pipe will harden with age, which can lead to vibration fractures, CoproNickel remains more annealed and as an added bonus, has good resistance to corrosion.

 

CuNiFe is an alloy, specifically formulated to have the same coefficient of expansion as glass, and its most prolific use was the leads from the filament to the contacts, of an incandescent electric light bulb.

[Lplus]

It turns out the stuff Halfords sell reels of is pure copper.  Still, it's working pressure is 2350 psi so I'm still good with it for a mini.  Not sure it might be so good for a car with ABS.

[Ethel]

Nobody mentioned nylon. It's been the choice on production cars for years. You could fit olives or barbed sleeves to steel lines with loctite, solder or even heat expansion.