23 replies to this topic

[gav]

Yes it’s in the kit now but wasn’t previously as I purchased Timken Bearings from MS and there was no shims.

Read the link and some interesting comments

 

That's because it wasn't a big issue until recently when new old stock Rover hubs hit the market place which are more prone to having the issue. 

[Fred&Rex]

I be fitting a shim in one of mine as I have lateral play and it’s an original hub pre 80s and it’s not showing signs of wear
I will let you know the outcome..

[dschwartz1957]

https://www.theminif...y/?fromsearch=1

Thanks for providing this link. I finally understand the purpose of the spacer, and why only one is needed.

 

Yesterday I installed the races using a bearing race driver and did not use a shim. I test fitted the dry roller bearings and there is no lateral movement. The roller bearings almost touch in the middle of the shoulder, though I can pull a very thin piece of paper out of the gap with no resistance. Hopefully this is as it should be, and there won't be an issue when I reinstall the hub and torque it to 60 lbs. I bought a new hub nut washer as the old one had a very shallow groove worn around the center.

[Spider]

There's very few common micrometers that you'll be able to use to measure the thickness of the register in the hub with. There's a technique I've been using mostly on the front hubs, but also works on the rear hubs. You can see it in this post;-

 

https://www.theminif...wheel-bearings/

 

Just be sure there's no burs or dings on the hub face that you are measuring to. Also, while it might at first glance appear unnecessary to fit the second bearing cup and them measure to that, instead measuring directly to the register, I would suggest is fraught with inaccuracy as the registers can have a small taper on them, so by fitting the cup, you are actually measuring to the cup's fitted position.

 

While in that post I show doing this with verniers, I actually do them with a depth micrometer. If you don't have a depth micrometer, then decent verniers that will do repeatable measurements are better than nothing.

 

 

That's because it wasn't a big issue until recently when new old stock Rover hubs hit the market place which are more prone to having the issue.

 

Is there a way we can identify the Rover Hubs ?  A friend bought a new hub about a year back, one thing I noticed was it only had a single screw hole for the brake drum. Was that a Rover Hub or some after market replacement ?
 

[Fred&Rex]

Just an update, fitted the shim, all greased and torqued to 60lb ft and no top and bottom play…
So must be different tolerances on these hubs.

Thanks again

[gav]

There's very few common micrometers that you'll be able to use to measure the thickness of the register in the hub with. There's a technique I've been using mostly on the front hubs, but also works on the rear hubs. You can see it in this post;-

 

https://www.theminif...wheel-bearings/

 

Just be sure there's no burs or dings on the hub face that you are measuring to. Also, while it might at first glance appear unnecessary to fit the second bearing cup and them measure to that, instead measuring directly to the register, I would suggest is fraught with inaccuracy as the registers can have a small taper on them, so by fitting the cup, you are actually measuring to the cup's fitted position.

 

While in that post I show doing this with verniers, I actually do them with a depth micrometer. If you don't have a depth micrometer, then decent verniers that will do repeatable measurements are better than nothing.

 

 

That's because it wasn't a big issue until recently when new old stock Rover hubs hit the market place which are more prone to having the issue.

 

Is there a way we can identify the Rover Hubs ?  A friend bought a new hub about a year back, one thing I noticed was it only had a single screw hole for the brake drum. Was that a Rover Hub or some after market replacement ?
 

 

I don't think there is a definitive way of identifying which ones will have an issue annoyingly but I'll check. Genuine new stock currently on sale will need the shim.

[dschwartz1957]

It may be easier to identify early rear hubs by the part number stamped in the casting.The rear hub on my '68 Mini appears to be original to the car. It looks "old", has the number 2A736C stamped in the casting, and the wheel studs are all stamped MOWOG followed by a part number. MOWOG stands for Morris-Wolseley Group and is probably not stamped on Rover or other later parts.

[Spider]

I don't think there is a definitive way of identifying which ones will have an issue annoyingly but I'll check. Genuine new stock currently on sale will need the shim.

 

 

OK thanks.
 

[enne]

had replaced the Bearings on the MPI and ERA and both needed the inner race to be sanded to get correct play. So, this new shim would have made it easier to get it correct.