19 replies to this topic

[Rubbershorts]

Hi all.

 

I've just replaced the crappy drop bracket in my car for a more substantial one and the steering wheel is now cocked over to the right as opposed to being central. I fitted the original bracket and followed the procedure set out that included the loosening of the u-bolts in the footwell. As the new bracket dropped the steering another few mm I again slackened the u-bolts. When I tightened everything back up and took it for a spin instead of the lower spoke in the steering wheel being at 6 o'clock, it is now 7-8. I can't figure out how this has happened. I never removed the steering wheel, and all I touched is as described above. Is this anything to be concerned about? Can I just pop the steering wheel off and re-centralise it?

 

Cheers, Daz.

[alpder]

I guess perhaps the rack could have moved a small amount left-to-right, while the U-bolts are loose? When re-tightened you'd then have to turn the steering wheel clockwise a little to compensate. Have a look see if the rack's pinion is now closer to the rhs of the hole in the floor than it used to be?

[Chris1275gt]

In the passenger footwell there is a corresponding hole where you remove the bung and the plastic piece in the rack you remove and put a drill bit in it so you can see easily where it relates to the hole. It’s best to do it before you loosen the rack u bolts so you can make sure you tighten the rack bolts with the drill in the same position as before you started.

[mab01uk]

I would loosen the rack u-bolts again, then gently move the steering wheel anti-clockwise a little (ie. because you said the lower spoke in the steering wheel being at 6 o'clock, it is now 7-8) and then re-tighten the u-bolts again.

If that improves things, repeat again if necessary until it is back to the original 6 0'clock position. With the u-bolts loosened the rack can move sideways a little in each direction.

 

This raised groove feature in photo below on the rack casting is what the u-bolt sits between and is the end of the rack that defines its position relative to the bodyshell.

 

 

Final Positioning and Vibration Reduction

"Here’s the rack fitted and held in place with its special U-clamps. Note the anti-vibration plastic strip, a feature of later Minis. This simple strip reduces resonance in the rack and helps prevent the bolts from working loose. This end of the rack defines its position relative to the bodyshell and must be fitted before the front subframe, although final angle adjustments can be made later."

Scroll down:-
https://www.minispor...ips-and-tricks/

Edited by mab01uk, 12 December 2024 - 12:11 PM.

[Rubbershorts]

In the passenger footwell there is a corresponding hole where you remove the bung and the plastic piece in the rack you remove and put a drill bit in it so you can see easily where it relates to the hole. It’s best to do it before you loosen the rack u bolts so you can make sure you tighten the rack bolts with the drill in the same position as before you started.

Okay. I suppose there's a chance it could have moved last time also?

 

I've never checked this before so i'll pop the bung out later have have a look. I better check how many turns left and right I have at the same time, see if anything is massively out. Thanks guys.

[Rubbershorts]

I would loosen the rack u-bolts again, then gently move the steering wheel anti-clockwise a little (ie. because you said the lower spoke in the steering wheel being at 6 o'clock, it is now 7-8) and then re-tighten the u-bolts again.
If that improves things, repeat again if necessary until it is back to the original 6 0'clock position. With the u-bolts loosened the rack can move sideways a little in each direction.
 
This raised groove feature in photo below on the rack casting is what the u-bolt sits between and is the end of the rack that defines its position relative to the bodyshell.
 

 
Final Positioning and Vibration Reduction
"Here’s the rack fitted and held in place with its special U-clamps. Note the anti-vibration plastic strip, a feature of later Minis. This simple strip reduces resonance in the rack and helps prevent the bolts from working loose. This end of the rack defines its position relative to the bodyshell and must be fitted before the front subframe, although final angle adjustments can be made later."
Scroll down:-
https://www.minispor...ips-and-tricks/

Brilliant, thanks. I guess it's difficult to actually see this in situ. Just to check if everything is okay.

[Steam]

If the rack has moved then your wheel alignment will also now be out and need redoing.

[Rubbershorts]

If the rack has moved then your wheel alignment will also now be out and need redoing.

Hi Steam. Would the alignment be out even though the distance between the two track rod ends hasn't changed? I didn't touch those, and having to now hold the steering wheel in the amended position puts the wheels back in the right direction, doesn't it? Open to suggestions if I'm missing something else? I'll have a fiddle with it tonight as per mab's suggestion above and see how that goes.

 

Daz. 

 

 

[alpder]

Would the alignment be out even though the distance between the two track rod ends hasn't changed?

No, you'll be OK in that respect. Essentially, the tube that the rack slides inside has shifted sideways. Once you turn the wheel to correct that movement, the actual rack (which is the rod inside with the teeth on it) is still in the same place and is still the same length.

[Chris1275gt]

The rack is fitted to the body of the car and in a fixed position if it’s moved to a different position the front wheels will be out of alignment with the rear wheels.
https://www.calverst...-set-up-method/

[Rubbershorts]

The rack is fitted to the body of the car and in a fixed position if it’s moved to a different position the front wheels will be out of alignment with the rear wheels.
https://www.calverst...-set-up-method/

Ah, potentially out of alignment to the 'rear' wheels makes sense. Out of interest how would that manifest itself in the actual driving? Would you feel anything? Would it rub the tires?

[Chris1275gt]

The car would be doing what’s called crabbing. It will appear to be going straight down the road from a driving position but looking from behind at the car body it won’t be straight. Cleverer people than me will know the implications.
I THINK you can put it right by using the string method and adjusting the track rod ends again cleverer people will know if that’s correct.

[Lplus]

 

The rack is fitted to the body of the car and in a fixed position if it’s moved to a different position the front wheels will be out of alignment with the rear wheels.
https://www.calverst...-set-up-method/

Ah, potentially out of alignment to the 'rear' wheels makes sense. Out of interest how would that manifest itself in the actual driving? Would you feel anything? Would it rub the tires?

 

If the rack has moved sideways the only effect will be to change the orientation of the steering wheel.  Since you didn't change the total length of the rack and track rods the wheel alignment will still be fine.  Crabbing occurs when the rear wheels are not pointing straight down the centre of the car (ie toe in/out is not the same for the rear wheels.)  Since you didn't change the rear wheel toe in the car should not be crabbing.

 

Personally, I slacken the bolts off and then wiggle the wheel to centralise the rack around the drivers side u clamp then tighten the bolts both sides.  If the rack isn't perfectly in the centre of the hole on the passenger side, so be it.

 

Once that is done, if the wheel isn't central then I adjust the trackrod ends equally each side to move the wheel to the correct position.  That said, checking the number of turns each side of straight ahead is also a good idea, as if it isn't equal you might find making it equal by adjusting the track rod ends may cure (or exacerbate) the wheel misalignment.  The only stipulation with these adjustments is to ajust the tie rods equally and in opposite directions (in once side, out the other) to maintain the front toe in/out setting.

 

Edit -  unless the wheel is miles out in which case going for the next column spline may be necessary.

Edited by Lplus, 13 December 2024 - 01:14 PM.

[Rubbershorts]

 

 

The rack is fitted to the body of the car and in a fixed position if it’s moved to a different position the front wheels will be out of alignment with the rear wheels.
https://www.calverst...-set-up-method/

Ah, potentially out of alignment to the 'rear' wheels makes sense. Out of interest how would that manifest itself in the actual driving? Would you feel anything? Would it rub the tires?

 

If the rack has moved sideways the only effect will be to change the orientation of the steering wheel.  Since you didn't change the total length of the rack and track rods the wheel alignment will still be fine.  Crabbing occurs when the rear wheels are not pointing straight down the centre of the car (ie toe in/out is not the same for the rear wheels.)  Since you didn't change the rear wheel toe in the car should not be crabbing.

 

Personally, I slacken the bolts off and then wiggle the wheel to centralise the rack around the drivers side u clamp then tighten the bolts both sides.  If the rack isn't perfectly in the centre of the hole on the passenger side, so be it.

 

Once that is done, if the wheel isn't central then I adjust the trackrod ends equally each side to move the wheel to the correct position.  That said, checking the number of turns each side of straight ahead is also a good idea, as if it isn't equal you might find making it equal by adjusting the track rod ends may cure (or exacerbate) the wheel misalignment.  The only stipulation with these adjustments is to ajust the tie rods equally and in opposite directions (in once side, out the other) to maintain the front toe in/out setting.

 

Edit -  unless the wheel is miles out in which case going for the next column spline may be necessary.

 

Cheers LPlus. Going by advice above, and the fact the steering wheel was definitely centred before I mucked about with the drop bracket, I'm sure it'll end up back where it should be with some minor manipulation.

[Ethel]

The outer rack moved. So, like pushing a bicycle, the (steering) wheel turned because it's fixed to the outer by the pinion bearing in the same way the bike wheel is fixed to the frame. The bit connecting your Mini's (road) wheels didn't alter any more than the road under the bicycle did.  Push the bike back to where it was and the road will turn the wheel will turn back too.