19 replies to this topic

[68+86auto]

The car would be doing what’s called crabbing. It will appear to be going straight down the road from a driving position but looking from behind at the car body it won’t be straight. Cleverer people than me will know the implications.
I THINK you can put it right by using the string method and adjusting the track rod ends again cleverer people will know if that’s correct.

 

The front end alignment doesn't cause crabbing.

[Chris1275gt]

Thanks clever people! For pointing out what is now obvious to me.

[Lplus]

 

 

 

The rack is fitted to the body of the car and in a fixed position if it’s moved to a different position the front wheels will be out of alignment with the rear wheels.
https://www.calverst...-set-up-method/

Ah, potentially out of alignment to the 'rear' wheels makes sense. Out of interest how would that manifest itself in the actual driving? Would you feel anything? Would it rub the tires?

 

If the rack has moved sideways the only effect will be to change the orientation of the steering wheel.  Since you didn't change the total length of the rack and track rods the wheel alignment will still be fine.  Crabbing occurs when the rear wheels are not pointing straight down the centre of the car (ie toe in/out is not the same for the rear wheels.)  Since you didn't change the rear wheel toe in the car should not be crabbing.

 

Personally, I slacken the bolts off and then wiggle the wheel to centralise the rack around the drivers side u clamp then tighten the bolts both sides.  If the rack isn't perfectly in the centre of the hole on the passenger side, so be it.

 

Once that is done, if the wheel isn't central then I adjust the trackrod ends equally each side to move the wheel to the correct position.  That said, checking the number of turns each side of straight ahead is also a good idea, as if it isn't equal you might find making it equal by adjusting the track rod ends may cure (or exacerbate) the wheel misalignment.  The only stipulation with these adjustments is to ajust the tie rods equally and in opposite directions (in once side, out the other) to maintain the front toe in/out setting.

 

Edit -  unless the wheel is miles out in which case going for the next column spline may be necessary.

 

Cheers LPlus. Going by advice above, and the fact the steering wheel was definitely centred before I mucked about with the drop bracket, I'm sure it'll end up back where it should be with some minor manipulation.

 

One sudden thought though, if you pulled the column off the rack whilst fitting the bracket it could end up on a different spline, but  since that isn't necessary, I'm assuming you didn't

[Rubbershorts]

The rack is fitted to the body of the car and in a fixed position if it’s moved to a different position the front wheels will be out of alignment with the rear wheels.
https://www.calverst...-set-up-method/

Ah, potentially out of alignment to the 'rear' wheels makes sense. Out of interest how would that manifest itself in the actual driving? Would you feel anything? Would it rub the tires?

If the rack has moved sideways the only effect will be to change the orientation of the steering wheel. Since you didn't change the total length of the rack and track rods the wheel alignment will still be fine. Crabbing occurs when the rear wheels are not pointing straight down the centre of the car (ie toe in/out is not the same for the rear wheels.) Since you didn't change the rear wheel toe in the car should not be crabbing.

Personally, I slacken the bolts off and then wiggle the wheel to centralise the rack around the drivers side u clamp then tighten the bolts both sides. If the rack isn't perfectly in the centre of the hole on the passenger side, so be it.

Once that is done, if the wheel isn't central then I adjust the trackrod ends equally each side to move the wheel to the correct position. That said, checking the number of turns each side of straight ahead is also a good idea, as if it isn't equal you might find making it equal by adjusting the track rod ends may cure (or exacerbate) the wheel misalignment. The only stipulation with these adjustments is to ajust the tie rods equally and in opposite directions (in once side, out the other) to maintain the front toe in/out setting.

Edit - unless the wheel is miles out in which case going for the next column spline may be necessary.

Cheers LPlus. Going by advice above, and the fact the steering wheel was definitely centred before I mucked about with the drop bracket, I'm sure it'll end up back where it should be with some minor manipulation.

One sudden thought though, if you pulled the column off the rack whilst fitting the bracket it could end up on a different spline, but since that isn't necessary, I'm assuming you didn't

No I didn't. But by mentioning it now you've ensured that's one less mistake I'll make in the future (probably)🤣

Edited by Rubbershorts, 13 December 2024 - 05:36 PM.

[Rubbershorts]

Done it👍

Thanks everyone. Loosened the u-bolts, turned the wheels to parallel, then wiggled the steering wheel to correct position without moving the wheels. Held the steering wheel in position with one hand, then reached down and pinched up the bolts. Had a peek through the other hole as shown in the picture, looks central, and have 1 1/4 turns left, and exactly the same right. Brilliant 🥳

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