67 replies to this topic

[mullet]

Hi all.  I found a mechanic who says he understands the timing, but doesn't have a what he calls "lampe stroboscopique".  A timing light or timing gun, then.  If I buy one I might be able to shadow him or try learning myself.  Does anyone have a link to one they would recommend?

[croc7]

Hi all.  I found a mechanic who says he understands the timing, but doesn't have a what he calls "lampe stroboscopique".  A timing light or timing gun, then.  If I buy one I might be able to shadow him or try learning myself.  Does anyone have a link to one they would recommend?

An observation from a neutral party-if your newly found mechanic says he understands timing but doesn't have a timing light, I would run away. 

[Designer]

Hi,

 

I agree.

 

Paddy

[mullet]

 

Hi all.  I found a mechanic who says he understands the timing, but doesn't have a what he calls "lampe stroboscopique".  A timing light or timing gun, then.  If I buy one I might be able to shadow him or try learning myself.  Does anyone have a link to one they would recommend?

An observation from a neutral party-if your newly found mechanic says he understands timing but doesn't have a timing light, I would run away. 

 

That's the response I thought I'd get :)  He is late-50s/early 60s, experienced mechanic and old car enthusiast.  Not his garage so isn't dictating what equipment it has, and no demand for older cars and why I struggle to find a mechanic local enough to limp the car to.

 

That said, I really want to learn how to do this and feedback measurements to all your experts here!  I don't want to rely on mechanics if I can be taught.  A recommended timing gun would be useful.  Hate using amazon, but....

 

I just ordered this to help conclude this issue and learn myself:

https://www.amazon.f...ive,144&sr=1-12

 

I know the Innova 5568 has been recommended on other posts.  But cannot get anytime soon in France and is twice the price as above.

Edited by mullet, 26 June 2025 - 08:26 PM.

[mullet]

Ignition timing correct throughout the rev range?

Hi imack.  I have tried to plot the advance following exactly these instructions in this very good video I found (and badly needed, since I have never done this before): https://youtu.be/tPT...re=shared&t=473

Engine running temp, vacuum thing disconnected.  I followed the instructions keeping the TDC (top of the set of finger-spikes) as close as possible to the marker throughout the below rpms (but my wife was getting nervous and very pissed off pressing the accelerator so ended the test at 3500 and don't know if it's me eating dinner or the dog now):

 

1000 = 0.5

1500 = 1.6

2000 = 2.3

2500 = 3.5

3000 = 4.4

3500 = 4.7

 

I don't know what is expected at idle.  I guess the first thing to adjust is just to get the idle right?  Clockwise turn of dizzy until getting 10 degrees at idle?  So the whole things seem rather "Retarded" in other words, as I understand it.  Not me, I mean the timing.  Or both?

[imack]

If those figures are correct your timing is massively retarded and it looks like your centrifugal advance is siezed/inoperative.
You'd normally expect timing figures similar to Darren's in the video, except I'd expect around 30° maximum at 4000 rpm.
Usually around 8-10 degrees at idle with the rest of the curve similar to Darren's.

[mullet]

If those figures are correct your timing is massively retarded and it looks like your centrifugal advance is siezed/inoperative.
You'd normally expect timing figures similar to Darren's in the video, except I'd expect around 30° maximum at 4000 rpm.
Usually around 8-10 degrees at idle with the rest of the curve similar to Darren's.

Thanks mate!  Is there any risk turning the dizzy to get the 8 - 10 degrees?  And after that I repeat the test across the rpms to determine if there's this additional potential issue with the centrifugal advance?  I guess what you mean is, those numbers shouldn't be quite so close in range?

 

EDIT: Reading more about the advance being seized, perhaps better I mark where the dizzy is positioned is now, then remove and make sure all parts move freely (if not, make it move freely following other posts!), then put back in and see if I get a wider range of numbers retesting?  If so, then get the idle to 8 - 10 degrees and repeat the test?  Sorry, total novice in this but I am starting to "get it".

Edited by mullet, 28 June 2025 - 07:47 PM.

[Spider]

I've stayed away from this thread for a while but noticed it's still dragging on !

I see you are in France, I hope this translates OK.

 

It's clear to me that one HUGE issue you have is that the whole cooling System is full of corrosion and crud. It will always run hot and over heat while in that condition. I did read that you've flushed it with one of the Flushes available. I have tried many of those and found none effective, though we do have a local product (I'm in Australia) that's effective but doesn't seem available anywhere else - this is not helpful !

 

For the cooling the be effective, the coolant has to be in contact with the cast iron of the engine and the copper of the radiator. Any rust or corrosion here will insulate the heat in the engine. Rust does not conduct heat, you must remove it.

You can try a product called CLR, you get that from the Hardware store

 

https://www.u-buy.co...google-redirect

 

Before you try this, check the heater is flowing. Disconnect one of the heater pipes (the one on the Cylinder Head is easy to get to) and connect a Garden Hose Pipe to it, turn it on and check you are getting good flow from it. 

 

Once you have flow there, drain the coolant and flush the system using the Garden Hose Pipe until clear water is coming out, drain that off. Then fill the system with 1 - 2 litres of CLR and top up with water, run it up to temperature then keep topping up to bleed off all air. Be sure your heater is turned to Hot while doing this and keep the engine running. Once you have that in there, leave it for at least 1 week to work. Drive the car or at least run it if yo can during this time.

After 1 week, drain and flush the system clean again, Remove the Thermostat and look in the head, you want the Cast Iron to start looking Grey (it'll be brown or red now). It might need this process doing 2 or 3 times to get it clean.

 

If the CLR is not working, you can use a Dishwaher Machine Detergent, BUT you must work quickly, you will want to have that in for no longer than about 15 - 20 minutes and you will have to flush the system for a good 30 - 40 minutes after. It is very reactive. This is a last resort.

Once you have it clean, flush with clean water, then use coolant, I recommend a Glycol based one.

If it still runs warm or hot, you may need to have the radiator cleaned professionally, as it has smaller passages, or as I have read above, replace it.

Until this is clean, nothing else you do will help.