21 replies to this topic

[Abbot]

Been back to the Mini this morning.

 

Car starts with some choke and runs ok. It stops running if I close the Choke the last step.

 

I checked the timing again and seems ok.

 

Any suggestions on what to try next?

 

Would an incorrect mixture setting cause my problem?  It looked ok with my colour tune.  Perhaps i should check it again. 

[tarnofsky]

Not sure what you mean by last step. Later Minis had a stepped choke cable and there you kind of feel the last step.
Last step - no matter what cable - on any HS2 or HS4 carb is increased idle speed. In other words: if you pull the choke, the first thing you do is increase the idle speed and then if you pull further it increases the mixture to rich.

Have you tried to increase the idle speed?
Should roughly be 850rpm from the top of my head for 998ccm engines and 650 for HS2 on 850ccm engines.
There's a screw you can reach from top of the carb with the filter housing removed.
Turn in to increase, out to decrease.
Slow... Like in 5min steps on a 60min clock.

[Abbot]

To answer "On The Road" yes i mean the steps in the Choke button that has 3 notches.

 

Major breakthrough this afternoon.

I noticed that the choke cable to the lever was really slack so I adjusted it. 

I pulled the lever up until the Jet Body just started to move and nipped up the wire at that point.

This meant that the car would tick over normally with the choke being full pushed home.

 

I guess there might be another way to set up the jet body so it is in a better setup than relying on the cable tension setting

 

I checked the timing again and as it was out a couple of degrees.

 

I even took the car for a quick run around the block.

 

It was a bit lumpy so there is more to look into but feel 

[Lplus]

To answer "On The Road" yes i mean the steps in the Choke button that has 3 notches.

 

Major breakthrough this afternoon.

I noticed that the choke cable to the lever was really slack so I adjusted it. 

I pulled the lever up until the Jet Body just started to move and nipped up the wire at that point.

This meant that the car would tick over normally with the choke being full pushed home.

 

I guess there might be another way to set up the jet body so it is in a better setup than relying on the cable tension setting

 

I checked the timing again and as it was out a couple of degrees.

 

I even took the car for a quick run around the block.

 

It was a bit lumpy so there is more to look into but feel 

It sounds to me that either the idle mixture is too weak or the main idle screw is not screwed far enough in.  All you are doing is using the fast idle screw to increase the idle speed by means of rotating the choke lever until the curved plate touches the fast idle screw.  The choke should not be set up with the jet  just starting to move.

 

There must be a main idle speed screw, visible from above the carb, even if it is hidden by a small plug.

[Abbot]

One step forward 2 steps back.

 

I decided to go back and check all settings again.

Plug gaps

Points gap

timing

etc

 

After setting the points gap I now have NO SPARK at all at the plugs

 

I would have thought that with some gap regardless of accuracy the engine would run but may be off.

Is it possible I have inadvertently knocked something off so it wont run?

 

Very frustrating as I was hoping to now focus on a few mior niggles

[NLinPEN]

One step forward 2 steps back.

 

I decided to go back and check all settings again.

Plug gaps

Points gap

timing

etc

 

After setting the points gap I now have NO SPARK at all at the plugs

 

I would have thought that with some gap regardless of accuracy the engine would run but may be off.

Is it possible I have inadvertently knocked something off so it wont run?

 

Very frustrating as I was hoping to now focus on a few mior niggles

It could be that by accident the cable from the distributor to the coil got disconnected? The easiest way to check whether that connection works is to see whether the high tension lead from the coil to the distributor generates sparks if you hold it close to the car body (i.e. electrical ground).

[Abbot]

Latest sit rep.

 

Decided to fit new contacts Points, condenser and coil.

 

I also noticed that the connection from coil to Distributer was not in great condition so I cleaned it up and made sure it had a good strong contact

 

Points set and the car is now running better than ever.

 

So I still need to tune the Fast Idle set up and choke position 

 

Then I will play with my Colourtune