50 replies to this topic

[Buckles23]

When you change the shocker bracket be prepared for the vast rust hole that will appear under it when it's removed.
Then it's welder out time.
All of a sudden a simple shocker mount change turns into a 20k refurb! 😁

😭😭

[Buckles23]

We’ll just been out during lunch break to check out this bracket.

Good news : removed the bracket and no inspection holes behind the bracket. I mean no shinny new metal but nothing major (No welding thank goodness)

Bad News : 2 sheered bolts. One is on the bottom of the bracket and the other up top.

Any tips on getting these removed. I’m thinking the top one I can remove the metal plate it screws into as I have access to that and at least remove it on the bench. The bottom bolt I can just see the plate and bolt thread but not a lot of room and from previous posts if this falls out might be fiddly to get back in.

[stuart bowes]

the top one, have a look on the back side you might find enough poking out to get mole grips on a gradually wind it through that way

 

the bottom one is hiding behind the tower of the subframe so that's more of a nuisance.  could try a bolt extractor https://www.screwfix...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds (or whatever kit has one the right size)

 

I wouldn't take out the retaining bar if you can help it, they're currently fixed in the right place and you'll have to weld it back in if you cut it off (only a couple of tacks but still)  they shouldn't just fall out they are fixed in place

Edited by stuart bowes, 15 May 2025 - 12:06 PM.

[Buckles23]

Thanks will try those options and makes sense to leave the plates in place for now.

Hate removing sheered bolts 😞

[stuart bowes]

the actual threaded part you're going into isn't very long, maybe 5 or 6mm, so one way or the other the broken stud hasn't got far to go 

 

you might find if you carefully drill a small hole through the centre, at some point the friction may overcome the thread and just spin it out the back side for you.  if not you needed a hole for the bolt extractor anyway 

Edited by stuart bowes, 15 May 2025 - 01:15 PM.

[Designer]

Hi,

 

Don't want to be a downer but those bolt extractors are pigging useless.

Every time I have used one I have applied plenty of Plus Gaz and allowed it to soak in. I have drilled the correct size hole in the bolt/stud to be removed screwed the extractor in and soon as there is any resistance

the tool just snaps leaving the tip in the stud and the rest of the tool only fit for the bin. I have used three of one set and all ended up the same way including the largest. which one would think would be the strongest.

I don't know what the metal is they are made from but they sure are brittle.

Total waste of money is my opinion.

 

Paddy

[Buckles23]

Feel your pain Paddy

Recently had issues with a caliper brake nipple and snapped the extractor, which meant I had no chance of removing it..

A bolt removal has never gone well for me.. just hoping it will come out by simply drilling it.

[DeadSquare]

 

When you change the shocker bracket be prepared for the vast rust hole that will appear under it when it's removed.
Then it's welder out time.
All of a sudden a simple shocker mount change turns into a 20k refurb!

If you have a welder.................................

 

Those 4 little setscrews are very easy to shear off.  I disconnect the alternator, clamp the earth from the welder firmly to the body and substitute the welding rod with the carbon rod from an old C or D  Zinc / Carbon Cell.

 

I hold the carbon on the head of the set screw and switch on the welder for just long enough for first the carbon and then the screw glow red hot.

 

Apply 'Plus-gas' when things cool down.

 

It might be worth trying heating the sheared "stud" with the carbon from an AAA cell

[Gaz66]

Or..... If you can get hold of a welder then weld nuts on the studs and spanner out.
Now then, who mentioned the 20k refurb earlier 😁

On a serious note how the hell are stud extractors meant to work?
If a bolt is seized in to the point the head has snapped off then it's fairly obvious the stud extractor is going to snap too.

Edited by Gaz66, 15 May 2025 - 08:13 PM.

[Ethel]

Snapping a hardened bolt extractor (the screw's only 1/4") will be whole new level of pain to remove.

 

One of these is on the inside. It'll be some very crusty screw poking out the other side that caused it to snap, so it'd be a challenge to persuade that to screw through the plate. Drill it (5.5mm is the correct  tap drill size) & it might decide to unscrew itself in to the bulkhead, if you're lucky. Some magnet fishing through the tower bolt hole ought to retrieve the dog end, if it bothers you. You'll need a screw in the other hole to avoid losing the "damper captive nut plate" while you're fettling it.

[Buckles23]

Well that was a complete disaster.

Managed to drill into bolt ok and used a little heat to free it up but then tried extractor I had in garage and it snapped.

I can only see the the bolt at the other side through a small slit so can only get thin pliers up so can get any grip on the screw. The plate is pretty solid as well so can’t get it to slide down and out.

Haven’t even attempted to get top bolt out yet.

Where do I go from here 🤷🏽‍♂️

[Designer]

Down the pub

[Buckles23]

Down the pub

😂😂😂… Great idea

[Buckles23]

Also had a look at top bolt and that’s a complete nightmare as well.. literally no access to this at all and no room to get any sort of mole grip round that…

[stuart bowes]

can you take pictures and post on here?  (i use https://imgbb.com/ and it gives you a code to copy/paste into the comment)

 

I think I'd continue with the drilling gradually increase size but trying not to damage the internal threads, at some point the remains will come loose and you can run a tap through to clean it up

 

worst outcome you damage the threads and have to replace the bars.. I would try anything else before that though, they're cheap as chips but a fair bit of work to do and might involve getting the subframe out of the way which is arseache obviously

 

maybe you can get at the blobs of weld holding them in and kind of drill at them or grind at them with a burr end, you might get enough weld off to be able to tap it and break it free.  then fit the new bracket and use that to locate the fixing positions while welding the bars back in (again it only needs a decent tack at both ends, it's just to stop it moving while there are no bolts in it)  you could probably just leave the plates un-welded as a problem for the future, how often do you really take those brackets off anyway

 

others might have better suggestions

Edited by stuart bowes, 16 May 2025 - 10:25 AM.