22 replies to this topic

[Jaybraham]

but that's not the cable that's hanging free then I assume

You assume correctly. Maybe I wasn't completely clear so let's try again.

Unplugged cable comes up from grill with a spade connector at one end into the left of a fuse, the right side of the fuse has a double spade connector where the ign switch and a cable to the ign coil + run from (or to).

What should be on the other side of the fuse

[sonscar]

Is it white and yellow? If so it provided 12v when starting and went to the starter solenoid.Steve..

[stuart bowes]

Yeah we need to know the colour really otherwise just guessing
I was thinking if cable tied to the grille then horn maybe

[Jaybraham]

It's white and purple but based on the spade connector fitted either end I wouldn't say its an original wire.

Should the white wire from ign switch go directly to the coil instead of a fuse which has no connection the opposite side? It's looks like a redundant connection to fuse box

[Ethel]

There shouldn't be fuses on the ignition. Saving your wiring is a poor consolation if you conk out in the middle lane of the M6.

 

If it's original & you have a pre-engaged starter, the ballast ignition bypass is a good shout. Even if it wasn't used it was likely to be in the loom from the 80's on.

 

If it's added it could just've been taken as a handy spot to pick up an ignition fed live, possibly for a relay ( spot lights, air horn...)

[Jaybraham]

There shouldn't be fuses on the ignition. Saving your wiring is a poor consolation if you conk out in the middle lane of the M6.

 

If it's original & you have a pre-engaged starter, the ballast ignition bypass is a good shout. Even if it wasn't used it was likely to be in the loom from the 80's on.

 

If it's added it could just've been taken as a handy spot to pick up an ignition fed live, possibly for a relay ( spot lights, air horn...)

 

 

So it seems I am missing the white pink ballast resistor cable from ignition switch to ignition coils, that is a direct wire instead. Also the white yellow from the ignition coil to starter solenoid is missing from my set up, however everything works so I'm not sure if I should just leave it as is...?

 

The cable with no connection at the end... Looking at the wiring diagram it seems where the white ignition cable is connected would have had a fuse leading to a bunch of green cables Originally I think this would of been Fuse 1-2 as per https://www.theminif...s-covered-data/. I think the 6 fuse set up fitted is just badly routed leading to more confusion but agree it could have been used to as a convenient power source for ancillaries not sold with the car.

 

Seems enough info points to a test fit with it directly connected without having any fuse connection between and then removing the rogue wire

[Ethel]

Since you're running a full fat 3 ohm coil, you don't want them anyway. We were just considering them as an explanation for the mystery wiring.

 

White is unfused ignition live, green is fused ignition live. The white comes from the ignition switch (or maybe a relay controlled by it) and will be supplying the green. As there are 2 spades per terminal on the standard fusebox that white can feed another white off the same end of the fuse.

[Jaybraham]

So I replaced the 3 speaker wires from solenoid to fuse box, and removed the rogue cable to nothing. Plugged the battery back on and I've got power but no ignition when I turn then key. No idea what I've done wrong literally just fixed a few dodgy cables and removed one but could anyone simplify the cables i should be checking directly related to the starting of the engine (no ballast on a Lucas DLB105). Nothing looks a miss out shorting out from inspection so I'm guessing I've muddled something important in the cables...