10 replies to this topic

[minicooper1.3i]

Evening all

A couple of years ago, I went to remove the offside radius arm in order to service it, and one of the bolts that's partially hidden behind the arm just started spinning. Presumably the captive nuts inside the subframe has broken free.

So the question is, is there a way of getting that arm off without removing the rear subframe? I've heard too many horror stories of subframe bolts snapping off inside the sills to risk it at the moment. I've got a spare radius arm bracket should I need it but no spare bolts, although I'm sure I could source some. I'd also need a way of refitting the arm of course, so not sure if the knackered captive nut could be replaced with a helicoil or not. The sheet metal of the subframe might be too thin. Dunno, never used them before.

Got first MOT in 4 years booked in for end of next week and although I've packed the arms with grease I'm not confident it'll pass. Just want to get it back on the road for a couple of months to enjoy the last of the summer before (with any luck) and can start planning the full strip down refurb of the entire car 🤞

Appreciate any suggestions with the above. 🙂

Cheers

[whistler]

I would suggest you have the MOT first. You could drill the head off, just to remove the arm but you're opening up a whole can of worms. MOT it first, if it's likely to pass.

[stuart bowes]

nowhere near thick enough for a helicoil, you need a proper welded on nut on the back side

only way to access that is lower subframe to get at the back side

theoretically someone sufficiently skilled could cut the subframe and do the repair then weld it back in, but that's probably more work than just dropping the subframe (and still not really ideal)

I'd just take a gamble at the subframe trunnion bolts being ok, and if not then cut a section out of the sill to do that repair instead, at least that isn't an important structural component

Edited by stuart bowes, 04 August 2025 - 09:21 PM.

[alpder]

Try for an MOT, and leave the work until autumn. If you drop the subframe now, the summer could be gone before you've fixed all the horrors that you find on and behind it.

 

If you haven't already, ask around for a local garage that understands old cars. Explain the subframe is scheduled to be out this autumn for a service... if it's marginal then that might swing you an advisory.

 

Alternatively, if radius arm just has to be done now and you don't mind quick and (very) dirty: drill out the bolt, service the arm, refit the bracket with two bolts and a plug-weld in the remaining hole. When you come to drop the subframe and fix it properly later, you'll need to fettle a new hole and its welded nut on the subframe, and obviously a new bracket too once you've ground the old one off.

[minicooper1.3i]

Thanks for all the input. Main reason for the query is that I was hoping to get booked in on this year's Dales Tour, closing date for which is the 22nd August. So if she fails the MOT on the 14th, I've barely got a week to get anything and everything fixed and back in for the retest 😭.

But I agree with the general consensus here. Best not risk effing anything up until I know whether it's a definite fail or not. Still got track rod ends and steering rack gaiters to fix before the weekend and looking at the state of the corrosion under there, it won't be a five minute job 😖.

[bpirie1000]

How did the MOT go today? Nervous for you......

[minicooper1.3i]

Just heard from the MOT centre a few mimutes ago. She's passed!! Evidently, packing everything with grease has made the difference and will certainly do for another 1000miles or so. Hoping to start planning the full strip down this Autumn 

[mbolt998]

There is a special place in hell for people who attach captive nuts with one tack. The best way to do it IMO is to weld along three out of the six flats alternately.

[minicooper1.3i]

Agreed! And use stainless nuts as well!

Picked her up this morning and went for a blast up the bypass to clear the cobwebs out. Pulled into the 30 zone and boiled over in spectacular fashion 😂 Looks like the expansion cap has gone.

[bpirie1000]

Good news.... now go fill a mini spares basket and start saving...

[alpder]

When welding the new nut, worth checking the threads carefully. Pretty sure my aftermarket one was M8-fine, not UNF. I do remember the original nut was made of putty.