5 replies to this topic

[CBJ805T]

I'm just rebuilding the front end of the car and finalizing the bracketry on the new inner wings. 

 

I've got a question on the bottom captive nut plate for the shock absorber bracket. On the original car this was welded in place - would it have left the factory like this?

 

I'm unsure whether to weld this in place - if so, how do I get the correct alignment of the shock bracket  - even with the top 2 bolts in place, there is a reasonable (+/-5°) play - I'm assuming the placement needs to be more accurate than that?

 

 

 

2nd question - my original brackets (or what remains of them) are body coloured  - Are these brackets normally fitted to the car, before spraying - or are they like any other bolt on element? 

 

 

[mab01uk]

2nd question - my original brackets (or what remains of them) are body coloured  - Are these brackets normally fitted to the car, before spraying - or are they like any other bolt on element? 

 

When removing the original brackets the inner wing metalwork behind is often rusty or has a hole behind into the bulkhead crossmember due to corrosion. This indicates that the brackets were fitted before painting in body colour and the bare steel behind the bracket is therefore prone to corrosion. The same is often seen in other areas of the bodyshell. eg. where door/boot hinges etc were fitted before the shell passed through the factory paint shop....rust prevention was not a major concern for car manufacturers in the 1950/60's when the Mini was originally designed and went into production....

Edited by mab01uk, 12 September 2025 - 11:13 AM.

[Ethel]

I've had captive plates that weren't welded. It seems more likely they'd be welded because the tabs had rusted away a bit than the factory would suddenly decide to. Being loose allows some leeway for alignment.

[sonikk4]

They should be welded in place, two whole spot welds!!!! Well that was what was holding on Paddys to the inner wings.

 

I took them off when doing some welding work then plug welded them back in place. No isues with alignment. However having them loose could be beneficial but then why not use two loose nuts instead??

[CBJ805T]

Thanks all - I’m going to leave them loose at allow for more alignment. Thanks for your input

Chris

[sonikk4]

Another option you could do is upgrade to a floating anchor nut plate. It could be riveted in place using monel rivets (no disimilar corrosion there) and with the floating anchor nuts it gives you a degree of flexibility. 

 

Something like this that i made for the modified Minivation damper mount on Paddy. A mixture of stainless steel, monel rivets and in this case floating sealed anchor nuts.